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busdriver

gl-10 folks...again.

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I started the cv joint project this weekend. It would have been a piece of cake, but...I snapped two bolts off on the hub. I took the hub into the machine shop today, and the guy was rather doubtful about getting these bolts out, which seems silly to me because if I had the tools, I could do it in my sleep. So I went to the NAPA store to see about ordering a whole new hub, and NAPA doesn't carry them. In fact noone does in the town I live in (BFE). So I would like to send out a call for one of these hubs, in the chances that they cannot remove the bolts. I need a passenger side hub for a 87 gl-10, 4wd turbo, 5 spd.

If anyone has a spare laying around I would be very interested in purchasing if they cannot remove the bolts. Especially since the snow is finally here, and I need my subie on the road as soon as possible. If anyone has a hub they are willing to get rid of, post a reply or email me at upfbdir@aol.com. Thanks a bunch.

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The hub doesn't need to be for a GL-10 specifically. any 85-94 EA82 car will work. Try your local wrecking yard.

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The hub doesn't need to be for a GL-10 specifically. any 85-94 EA82 car will work. Try your local wrecking yard.
No dice, the two wrecking yards I have accesss to have no subies...go figure. But thanks for the info. It may make things easier.

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Turbo hubs have a different diameter hole (larger)for the CV to pass thru ,so a regular EA82 hub will not do....

The hub doesn't need to be for a GL-10 specifically. any 85-94 EA82 car will work. Try your local wrecking yard.

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Turbo hubs have a different diameter hole (larger)for the CV to pass thru ,so a regular EA82 hub will not do....

Interesting.. I suppose you should come explain that to the non turbo hub on my turbowagon.. its probably feeling some sort of identity crisis now

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Turbo hubs have a different diameter hole (larger)for the CV to pass thru ,so a regular EA82 hub will not do....

 

Are you sure about that? I stripped down an 87 T-wagon and used the hubs on my 81 NA/ No fitment problems at all. They just bolted right up and off I went. Now, the history of that wagon in entirely unknown, so its possible that at some point someone put NA axles and hubs in that car. Either way, best to make sure.

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Turbo hubs have a different diameter hole (larger)for the CV to pass thru ,so a regular EA82 hub will not do....

The non turbo axles fit just fine on my dual range swap on my '87 Turbo wagon.

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I belive the inner cv is the one with more splines on a turbo not the outer.

that may be where the confusion is.

 

there should be no problem swaping in a non turbo unit.

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Can't help you with th hub at the moment (plus shipping would probable be worse than from NC!!!), but...

 

...I snapped two bolts off on the hub. I took the hub into the machine shop today, and the guy was rather doubtful about getting these bolts out, which seems silly to me because if I had the tools, I could do it in my sleep...

...I'm curious: Which bolts did you break, and what kind of sad-sack machine shop doesn't think they can get them out??? They don't have drills, ez-outs, PB and blue tipped wrench? Maybe they just don't want to take the risk? :-\

 

I broke a stud in a motorcycle head once, tried to use an extractor to remove it, but the extractor snapped off flush with the stud remains... Broken stud, broken *hardened* extractor, aluminum head. Hmmmm. My machine shop said no problem and cored out the bolt, TIG'd new material into the hole, redrilled and retapped.

 

Can't do that with cast-iron, though...

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Can't help you with th hub at the moment (plus shipping would probable be worse than from NC!!!), but...

 

 

...I'm curious: Which bolts did you break, and what kind of sad-sack machine shop doesn't think they can get them out??? They don't have drills, ez-outs, PB and blue tipped wrench? Maybe they just don't want to take the risk? :-\

 

I broke a stud in a motorcycle head once, tried to use an extractor to remove it, but the extractor snapped off flush with the stud remains... Broken stud, broken *hardened* extractor, aluminum head. Hmmmm. My machine shop said no problem and cored out the bolt, TIG'd new material into the hole, redrilled and retapped.

 

Can't do that with cast-iron, though...

I took it to the NAPA machine shop. These guys look/act like a bunch of idiots. They don't seem too confident in their abilities. The guy was stammering and nervous, I wanted to tell him that "it's just a piece of metal, it can't hurt you". It's been almost 2 full days and no word from the shop, I'm getting scared. If I still had the right tools I would have done it myself in about 30 minutes.

I used to be a manager at a shop and our moto was, if you can't find anyone to fix it , then bring it here. I wander what happened to that frame of mind. People nowadays seem to be getting more lazy and stupid. I broke the bolt that pinches at the bottom of the strut, and the other pinch bolt at the bottom that holds the ball joint.

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I took it to the NAPA machine shop. These guys look/act like a bunch of idiots. They don't seem too confident in their abilities. The guy was stammering and nervous, I wanted to tell him that "it's just a piece of metal, it can't hurt you". It's been almost 2 full days and no word from the shop, I'm getting scared. If I still had the right tools I would have done it myself in about 30 minutes.

I used to be a manager at a shop and our moto was, if you can't find anyone to fix it , then bring it here. I wander what happened to that frame of mind. People nowadays seem to be getting more lazy and stupid. I broke the bolt that pinches at the bottom of the strut, and the other pinch bolt at the bottom that holds the ball joint.

Yeah, my local NAPA machinist once gave my EA81 flywheel I nice dish-shaped resurface. Then, while trying to correct his error, he decided to change the distance between clutch surface and PPLate mount surface!?

 

"Why fix it when you can replace it?" Gee, with a broken bolt that you can see both ends of (pinch bolts), I wouldn't be worried going after them, and I am just a backyard hack and not a "machinist". Worst case of being chicken, I would just progressively drill the sucker out and run a tap through it to clear the remnants. Can't understand why a "machinist" wouldn't want to touch them.

 

BTW, I found an old parts store with machinist who probably worked on flat-head Fords when they were new. Still has reasonable prices, too.

 

Good Luck!

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Well the shop finally finished up on the hub. Yes, they got the bolts out, tapped the threads and then reamed me for $117. I found out much too late that a common practice is to just through bolt these hubs instead of pinch bolting them. Hope this helps someone in the future. I'll let you folks know how she runs down the road. Does anyone think I'll need a front end alignment when I'm done? Thanks in advance.

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