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solid motor mounts


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i just pulled the engine, on my offroad hatch, and noticed i had two broken rubber motor mounts, last time i pulled the motor i had one broken in half... im tired of it, as it makes my car wobble funny when the tires spin, and when im goin between 55 and 60.

so i took some good ones, bead blasted them, and welded metal plates to the sides, to make them completely solid.

if the vibration inside the cab in unbearable, i will take some more stock ones, and weld on some chain travel limiters. but untill then, im runin it completely solid.

motor should be back in another car tomorrow, so i can see how they work. i'll post some pics tomorrow too.

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Please let us know how these work. I was thinking about fabing up some solid mounts when/if my black goo treatment breaks down.

 

If the solids are too harsh, what about adding a 1/4" of medium density rubber to the top and/or bottom to provide a little cushion?

 

garner

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ya, i was screwin around some more, and the chain idea should keep them from breaking, while leaving the rubber to do its job. but my cousin says he has tried the chain, and you can feel when it hits it full extension, and its kinda jarring.

 

the eurethane, must be just about solid mount right?

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ya, i was screwin around some more, and the chain idea should keep them from breaking, while leaving the rubber to do its job. but my cousin says he has tried the chain, and you can feel when it hits it full extension, and its kinda jarring.

 

the eurethane, must be just about solid mount right?

 

yeah. has a littleflex in it, but not much....

 

I used the windo-weld from Advance Auto Parts and filled in all the areas around the stockrubber (after cleaning of course.) But you need to start with a good set that way.

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If the solids are too harsh, what about adding a 1/4" of medium density rubber to the top and/or bottom to provide a little cushion?

 

garner

 

 

 

I've ran solid mounts on some High HP vehicles in the past. Vibration in the car is/was very noticable on many of them. Enough so, that I had to continuously re-tighten the screws in the dash panels, on one of the cars.

On that particular car, I re-did the solids to lengthen the studs, to allow for 2 rubber washers, made from a junk tire's sidewall. One between engine's mount piece and frame bracket, and one between frame bracket and the washer above the mount stud's nut. Helped abit, but didn't eliminate all of the vibration.

 

 

 

if the vibration inside the cab in unbearable, i will take some more stock ones, and weld on some chain travel limiters.

 

archemitis

Good idea there.

 

Another way to stop engine twisting, is to use a length of all-thread, with the rubbers, washers, nut set-up on each end, like you find on shock assorbers. Need a bracket on the engine end, and a relitively close hole thru frame or crossmember.

 

Done this one myself, and allows you to adjust hold-down for some engine movement, (but not to much there). Also, with some movement, it helps to lessen the vibrations, while keeping engine where it supposed to be. To tight, and you have major vibration happening. Had engine basically just sitting on a piece of rubber between the mount brackets. Got tired of replacing mounts after a good night of 1/4 mile runs. 500+ ponies. 3500 # vehicle, side-stepping clutch pedal @ 5500 RPM, somethings gotta give.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hope not, but i ran it for the first time yesterday. vibs at idle were noticeable, but reving it up didnt seem worse. havent offroaded, or top speed tested it yet tho. its pretty cool to grab the oil fill tube, and shake the crap out of your car, instead of just the engine. car twists, when you rev it, instead of motor jumpin up. i'll chime in again when i get 1k on it.

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I had taken 3/8 bolts and run them thru the mount. chopped off each end and welded them in place. it worked good for a while and then it broke again good thing the mounts have those little tabs to limit travle. I have the window stuff ready to go I just need some new mounts.

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