b00stingsx Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 anyone done one on an 86 gl-10 turbo? I might aquire one soon and want to know what im getting into. lets hear it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Never done a turbo car though I will be in the very near future. After rebuilding 2 n/a ea82s, I can safely say that a HG job really is not a big deal. By far the best thing you can do is pull the engine out to do it. If you screw around with it still in the car, it will take twice as long and be a whole lot less fun. Use only genuine subaru HG's, especially on turbo cars. You can get them for $27 each from 1stsubaruparts.com. They also offer complete gasket sets for very reasonable prices. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean enough to eat off of, and also make absolutely sure that your heads didn't crack when the gasket(s) blew. When putting the cam carriers back on, use Permatex Anaerobic Sealant, not RTV, to seal between them and the heads. Something to consider in addition is converting to head studs while you're at it. I'm certainly going to look into this when I do the HG's on my turbo car, as studs and nuts are far superior to bolts in that they provide a more consistant clamping force and are less likely to pull out of the block or distort anything. I was told that ARP Fasteners can make up custom stud sets for anything. Just give them the thread pitch, length and diameter. Just a reminder: While you've got the car apart this far, why not take care of anything else that's wrong or do any recommended maintenance? It's likely time for things like timing belts and coolant hoses. The oil pan gasket as well as the rear main seal require pulling the engine, so do those now even if they aren't leaking yet. How's the clutch? That's another easy thing to do now rather than later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b00stingsx Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 I think im only going to replace the head gaskets (maybe the belts too depending on the current shape). It doesnt need arp's, maybe new bolts but definatly not arps. i run arps in my turbo eclipse, and lets just say it can handle 45 lbs of boost. the car just needs to last through the winter though. i dont have the car yet, so i dont know about it yet. i dont have any experiance with flat fours so wish me luck. btw, running well how much can i sell an 86 gl10 for? just ballpark. Also, do i replace tensioners when doing tbelts? anything else? Is the motor hard to pull out? any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Yeah, if you just need it to last for the winter, I wouldn't go to the trouble of doing too much else. The value of the car depends on too many factors for me to provide a good answer. Up here in AK where rust-free soobs are RARE, cars go for three times what they would down in the WA/OR area. It's recommended that you replace the tensioners with the belts. Whether or not you actually do this depends on their condition. If the car has more than 150k on it, I would replace them regardless. Otherwise, if they spin well and don't have any side-to-side play, I'd put them back on. Also, use only Subaru OEM T-belts. They really do hold up better. The cam seals tend to leak a lot on the ea82, so I would replace those at this time. Same with the oil pump seals. Neither are hard to do, you just have to take all the timing stuff off to get to them. They are also very annoying leaks to have, as the oil mostly goes on the exhaust. As far as pulling the engine, it's a real easy job on these cars. Just make sure you mark any connections that are not extremely odvious. Most of them are pretty self-explainatory though. Be very careful when removing the exhaust headers. The studs are notorious for having problems, so spray on some good penetrating oil at least a day ahead of time and just be careful with it. If some of the threads come out with the stud, have no fear. If that happens, there are a variety of ways to fix it without a lot of work. Even if you don't replace belts, hoses, etc, there is one that you really should do. There is a coolant hose that runs into the turbo that often leaks when it gets old due to the heat radiated from the turbo. I believe it enters the turbo from the bottom, but someone please correct if I'm wrong. This must be replaced with hi-temp silicone hose, not just regular rubber stuff. It's also quite hard to get to with the engine in the car, but not a big deal while doing this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 snowman has got most of what you need to know already. you will want the complete gasket set not just the head gaskets. or at least new intake and exhaust gaskets too. I have used fel pro in the past with no problems. go figure. you can use regular silicone heater hose for the turbo lines. 1/2" I think it is. consider the clutch while its out. at least inspect it well. ARP does not have the proper length 11mm by 1.25 head studs to fit our motors and they did not offer me the option of making them. Im sure its possible but it would be a high dollar item. If some one find them or has them made let me know because I want some for my project motor. the sealer I use on the cam cover is called permatex ultra grey. it meets all the OE specs for sealing. definately do the T belts and the oil pump o rings maby a water pump too. I did one for a friend a while back and it did not run to much in parts. but then again I dont swear by OE stuff. pulling the motor is not too bad. the turbo cars have a lot of stuff to keep track of but it all seeems to fall together ok. when I do them I pull the whole motor manifolds harness and all and then pop off the manifolds (with everthing attached)on the stand. be carfull to mark the distributor position in relation to the cams and crank and then follow the timing belt instalation carefully(look it up here as it always seems to pop up) when installing the intake make sure the P.S. bracket is already bolted in place along with the heater line pipe. a/c is a bit tricky as there are hidden bolts on the bottom sometimes good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 i myself ,miles fox, tom, did 1 on an 88 turbo a/t wagon .both sides , all other gaskets , about 14 hr job , stopped for lunch, dinner , drinking cold drinks, the gasket set was 200 bucks ,w/ alot of gaskets left over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b00stingsx Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 ok thanks for all the great help, its apreciated. I am gettting the car for 50 dollars and i guess it just needs a hg. its got like 130,000 on it, and everything else is good, turbo spools well, im fixing it to sell to a friend. so any ideas of a price? i have no idea of what these cars are worth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 ...a/c is a bit tricky as there are hidden bolts on the bottom sometimes... Ditto, ditto , yada, yada. With the A/C, DO NOT disconnect/depressurize the system. All you need to do is disconnect the electricals, and unbolt the compressor and/or the bracket (I unbolt bracket on mine) and gently move it aside into the fender area (battery box for me). Not hard, gets easier with repeated practice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.sp?kbb&&&usedCars;slp is the site to check with kelly blue book about values on used cars. They allow you to put in the condition of the vehicle and mileage to determine the value. Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Hey Rallyruss, do you recall what ARP wanted for custom studs? I remember there was a rallied-out RX at WCSS that had custom studs made, but I didn't get the price for them. I may explore the possibility of buying a large volume of head studs if others would be interested in some and if it would help on pricing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 if this current engine doesnt blow up again in the next 10k miles, I will be wanting studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 if this current engine doesnt blow up again in the next 10k miles, I will be wanting studs. If you find a source, I would dearly love to know. I love (engine!) studs. (Started typing that and it sounded bad...) There was a thread not too long ago that included talk of studs, and I was thinking going to 12mm or 13mm studs (or 1/2"). A VW/Porsche person suggested that double-butted studs (thinner shank than at threads) would be preferable. Anyway, keep us posted, please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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