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Momo and Nardi aren't just for the new gen anymore!

Featured Replies

the new wheel looks great!

 

wonder how well something like that would fit in my wagon??? :P

you need to cut that ****er down so you dont punch your heater controlls when you shift.

i cut mine down about 4 inches shorter than stock, i like it lots.

you need to cut that ****er down so you dont punch your heater controlls when you shift.

i cut mine down about 4 inches shorter than stock, i like it lots.

what, i typed shifter not ****er

  • Author
wonder how well something like that would fit in my wagon??? :P
It will bolt right into a gen3 vehicle. I had to modify it to fit the Brat. Basically, I cut out the hubs from the Nardi and the stock wheel. Then rewelded the stock hub onto the Nardi. It required me to enlarge the hole to fit it though.

 

Arch, I plan to cut it down later. (I am actually going to try and fab a short shifter for the Brat) It is about the same height as stock just looks and feels better.

fab a short shifter?

i cut them down then weld the threaded part back on :drunk:

 

you gonna try for an actual short throw shifter? i drove a honda with an actual short throw, and it was crazy, i liked it alot.

Hey Ken, I've had mine for over a year. I just used the Momo hub/adapter. They are really rare, but they are out there.

 

IMG_0633.jpg

Nice work, wheel looks bloody factory mate!

 

As for the short throw shifter, I made one for my Brat.

 

Little grinding, little welding on the connection piece from the tranny to the shifter.

(part notorious for causing a sloppy shifter).

And a spacer is needed

to lengthen the distance from the pivot to the fulcrum on the botton of the shifter.

(I used a 1/4" pipe nipple)

 

I have picts and a drawing if you are interested.

Nice work, wheel looks bloody factory mate!

 

As for the short throw shifter, I made one for my Brat.

 

Little grinding, little welding on the connection piece from the tranny to the shifter.

(part notorious for causing a sloppy shifter).

And a spacer is needed

to lengthen the distance from the pivot to the fulcrum on the botton of the shifter.

(I used a 1/4" pipe nipple)

 

I have picts and a drawing if you are interested.

hey Skip is it that one that you did to eliminate the slop and posted it on EXboard?

Sorry no, I used the proven "slot and bolt "method to cure the slop.

 

Well you may have seen the drawing there as I did both at the same time.

 

I should do a retro post on both and quit h-jackin'

Ken's knob an wheel post.

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