November 17, 200421 yr Granted I really ought to do a search for this...but instead I'm gonna post up and look at what happened when I wake up tomorrow...woot! Anyway, the top front strut mounts are pretty darn far from the firewall, and when I put a strut brace on my prior car it made an INSANE difference with turn in and responsiveness. Seriously...turn in was increase to an amazing level. So does anyone make a front strut tower brace for a...say...'86 GL-10 4WD? I'd have no issues with welding one in if A) I could weld! and if I planned on never taking the motor out.
November 17, 200421 yr You could get one made at an engineering workshop for a resonably cheap price i suspect.... I made one (bolt on) for my 81 wagon - made a huge difference.
November 17, 200421 yr the bolt pattern is only 1~2MM wider on the GDx chassis, and the strut bolts are clocked the same way. IF you could get a WRX bar, the adjustable type, and adjust it down 2 inches in width...it would work.
November 17, 200421 yr I kinda think he's referring to a 3-point, not a two point. I'm planning on making one for my '89 RX since I'm doing the XT6 suspension swap into it to get the 5-lug and the bigger sway bars. All of which helps the bottom portion of the car but there's nothing on the upper side of it to make it handle better. You'd be better off going with a 3-point, one point on each strut tower and one in the center of the firewall. It should make a HUGE difference!!!
November 17, 200421 yr Author the bolt pattern is only 1~2MM wider on the GDx chassis, and the strut bolts are clocked the same way. IF you could get a WRX bar, the adjustable type, and adjust it down 2 inches in width...it would work. Hmmmm...that wouldn't be hard to find I think. And as long as I'm not getting some insane Cusco carbon fiber stick, it shouldn't be too expensive either! And yeah, a 3 point bar would be MUCH better...but the odds of someone making 'em for us is pretty remote. I had a 40mm bar, and it was fantastic. Probably biggest "night and day" difference with it's installation out of anything.
November 17, 200421 yr Seems to me there is enough ability on this board that someone(s) could do the fab'ing. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet ) to properly do the mount plates, but the rest is within even my capability. Just a thought...
November 17, 200421 yr Author Seems to me there is enough ability on this board that someone(s) could do the fab'ing. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet ) to properly do the mount plates, but the rest is within even my capability. Just a thought... Honestly, that would be pretty huge. They truly make a monster difference in the handling dynamics of cars that either/and A) have the strut top mounts in the engine bay far from the firewall and are older more mileage flexable chasis. As long as whomever makes 'em doesn't charge an arm and a leg...they are one of the best mods for a car, period. And on "our" cars...they would be huge. One thing to take into consideration though would be those installing top mount intercoolers or...GASP...actually leaving the spare tire in the engine bay
November 17, 200421 yr Snowman, that is one empty looking engine bay! Er, I mean neat and uncluttered... How do you like your battery? Do you think they are worth it?
November 17, 200421 yr well I was kinda thinking about making them, I just need to get me a cutting torch setup since I don't think a plasma cutter would cut through the 1/4" steel plates I'm planning on using. Also I as looking at how it could be configed into a car with a TMIC and it can be done, just needs to get one and the piping so I can start making measurments:D
November 17, 200421 yr I wouldn't bother with a two point, the one i made was three point and was made in a weekend. hardest bit was bolting it to the firewall!
November 17, 200421 yr 2 x clevis forks from an agricultural supply store (or a mate, thanks Ray), 950mm long piece of steel rod, threaded to 18mm x 1.25 2 x steel tabs welded to the strut top plate for lift kit. 2 x lock nuts $60 Australian, $45 US Twin carbs not included. MASSIVE DIFFERENCE, didn't know it flexed that much!
November 17, 200421 yr http://www.subspeed.com/LoyStrutBar.htm or: not knockin your ride, but that thing aint doin anything.
November 18, 200421 yr Snowman, that is one empty looking engine bay! Er, I mean neat and uncluttered... How do you like your battery? Do you think they are worth it? to say it for Snowman it is worth it I had one that was in 4 different vehicles before I did something stupid and left it in the last vehicle when I traded it for my 76 but I am gonna start gettin them when the batts finaly die in the cars and if you can afford it the yellow tops are good if you use aux lights and such cause they are automotive deep cycles that you can use for cranking and also for high drain appliances like lights and Stereo systems etc.
November 19, 200421 yr This is something I came up with a couple years ago with my Datsun Z cars.. no reason why it couldnt be applied to the Subie too. "Skip81ZX" was my id back then. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=206115&t=205892
November 19, 200421 yr Archemitis, no offense taken. But why exactly will that not be functional? It goes to one of the strut mount bolts on each side, so wouldn't it still prevent chassis flex? Oh yeah, the Optima battery is schweeeeeeeet!
November 19, 200421 yr the way its set up it will bend in the metal thus giving it the same flex. Granted it won't be as bad but it doesn't to much for the handling. Use some squarestock like 3/4" to make a 2-point and make sure its either welded to the strut tower or make a bracket so it can bolt and unbolt from the strut cap.
November 19, 200421 yr Okay, that makes sense. I'll probably build something along those lines sometime.
November 19, 200421 yr well I'm going to possibly start making these so if you want one, I can either send you some plans and a materials list or I can send you one that is ready to be assembled type thing. Make it waaaaaaay easier to ship then a big honkin thing:D
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