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Electrical problem with 90 Loyale


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I started experiencing a problem with our 90 Loyale Station Wagon with 3 spd AT this evening. The following warning lights were on as I drove it home: charge, AT fluid temp, rear lamp, brake fluid, and parking brake. We've been in the single digits here the last couple of nights. When I first got in the car as it was warming up, I noticed the lights on and the voltage was reading low on the alternator gauge (about 1/5). When I got it out on the road the gauge came up to where it normally stays (about 3/4). The warning lights got dimmer at interstate speeds and I noticed that they would flicker sometimes when I'd hit a bump. All the accessories seem to be working properly and there are no problems with it starting. Any ideas?

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The reason the lights do that is because they are wired into the alternator regulator or field circuit. I can't remember which one it is for sure.

I'm glad to hear that. I had installed a remote starter/keyless entry unit a few weeks ago and was concerned at first that it might have something to do with that. I've installed several of them and they've never given me any problem though. I'm in hopes that this thing can hold out until Wednesday so that my parts car will be home by then. Like I said, at road speed the gauge was looking good and everything was working fine, so maybe it'll hold out another day or two.

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I would try calling some good auto electric repair places in your area. They should be able to sell you a rebuilt with no problem. Trying to repair yours may not be worth the time and money it takes to do it. You should get a lifetime warranty with a Bosch rebuilt unit.

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I'm glad to hear that. I had installed a remote starter/keyless entry unit a few weeks ago and was concerned at first that it might have something to do with that. I've installed several of them and they've never given me any problem though. I'm in hopes that this thing can hold out until Wednesday so that my parts car will be home by then. Like I said, at road speed the gauge was looking good and everything was working fine, so maybe it'll hold out another day or two.

Is it possible that the starter unit was installed incorrectly or is interfering with or damaged the alternator. It might be a coincidence but could you easily disconnect this remote unit, check all grounds to alternator, starter and battery cable connections and see if you still have the warning light problem before reconnecting the remote starter.

The relation of your remote starter installation to the light problem may just be coincidence or it mat be the root cause. Sounds like you like to detective work.

Can auto stores "check" alternators?

G'luck

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Is it possible that the starter unit was installed incorrectly or is interfering with or damaged the alternator. It might be a coincidence but could you easily disconnect this remote unit, check all grounds to alternator, starter and battery cable connections and see if you still have the warning light problem before reconnecting the remote starter.

The relation of your remote starter installation to the light problem may just be coincidence or it mat be the root cause. Sounds like you like to detective work.

Can auto stores "check" alternators?

G'luck

I don't see the remote starter having anything to do with it. Especially now, since I picked up the parts car and the exact same lights are burning on it.

 

I've replaced internal voltage regulators and brushes on alternators before, but never any diodes. I'm kinda strapped for $$ for another few days, so I'm hoping that I can snag what I need to rebuild the electrical parts anyway. I'll just have to pull it out and crack it open and see what it looks like I guess.

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I'm looking in the shop manual and see that there's an external voltage regulator listed here. Since my parts car is supposed to have a new alternator, but is having the same problem, I'm wondering if the regulator isn't the problem. The shop manual doesn't say where the voltage regulator is located. Anyone got any pointers? I can probably find it, but any help would be appreciated.

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All Soobs made durring and after 1983 have an internal voltage regulator. It may be an issue with the connector (corrosion or something of that sort). Check the wiring harness and make sure that you actually are putting out proper voltage.

I do not know what you are seeing - maybe an internal diagram of the alternator?

Don't buy a cheap rebuilt one from AutoZone/PepBoys/Advance they tend to undervolt under most conditions and are generally not reliable. Mine went out and started shooting 16+V through the system. When I put an alternator w/ 260K on it from an EA81 car in my car to get home, I started generating proper voltage even at idle. A local rebuilder with a good reputation should do a good job, and just make sure genuine Subaru parts are used.

I noticed you are in NC - there is a guy in Greensbourgh that was recommended to me - but I can't remember his name!!

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Well, off to the rebuild shop I went. I'm picking it up tomorrow. It costs a couple of dollars less to have them rebuild it ($53.**) here locally than it does to get one at auto zone, but even if it had cost a little more I usually like to get stuff like this done here locally if I have the time. I like to rebuild stuff like this myself when I can, but I got to reading through the shop manual about burning through this, that, and the other with a soldering iron and decided against it. :-\

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Just out of curiosity, where are you in NC? My alternator went out unexpectedly and I need it fixed, obviously the shop you went to did good work at a very fair price, so I may use them too.

I'm about 4 hours West of you. If you want to ship it out here I'd be more than happy to take it over there for you, but by the time you pay for round-trip shipping, it may not be worth your while.

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Glad you got it fixed, these cars do seem to eat alts for lunch and dinner.

I went through so many one year I decided to dive in.

 

If you are of the ilk, I would secure another known to be good unit or do as I did and

 

dive in.

benchnrig.JPG

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Thanks for the offer dptyrob, but I am going to have to *temporarily* go with an aftermarket b/c we need the car now b/c of a bad storm coming (on a NC scale of weather), and b/c both my parents cars are acting up (non-Soobs of course).

I will say that eventhough they eat alts, the EA82 alt. is REALLY easy to get at. Are XT6 alts. any more reliable than the standard ones? I might bother to do the upgrade if they are.

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