February 22, 200521 yr $300 u.s. ! Maybe I'll sell mine and go welded, for 300 bucks I could destroy 6 axles and still come out ahead.
February 22, 200521 yr http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=14957&group_ID=2358&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog and Qman posted on another thread about using this with one of the impact drivers that you hit with a hammer to break them loose. the bolt heads like to twist off, so be careful.... i think Stahlwille and Ko-Ken make torx sockets in 1/4" drive too, you might want to compare the prices - especially Check to see if you can get Ko-Ken ones, they are often cheaper than snap-on or stahlwille but are still excellent quality.
February 22, 200521 yr Author http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=14957&group_ID=2358&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog and Qman posted on another thread about using this with one of the impact drivers that you hit with a hammer to break them loose. the bolt heads like to twist off, so be careful.... Ah, thanks. I guess I missed that one while searching.
February 22, 200521 yr $300 u.s. ! Maybe I'll sell mine and go welded, for 300 bucks I could destroy 6 axles and still come out ahead. And out perform an LSD on the trails all day long
February 23, 200521 yr IF someone offered me $300 for my LSD, i'd say "want to wait 30minutes while I rip it from my RX". -Brian
February 23, 200521 yr Ok I found it Ebay LSD Thats the one Shawn had for sale at the last Colorado meet. I think he posted it for $100 to the board then it went on ebay.
February 23, 200521 yr Yup, Subaru098 is Shawns ebay addy. $330 is a huge chunk of change though, damn! -Brian
August 2, 200520 yr The last 2 I have sold went for 240 and 330, which is amazing. I wish it had been my $ though, the first was a guy getting rid of old Subaru parts and the 2nd was a coworker. The 1st one was offered on USMB first but the 2nd wasn't as he wanted more than the typical $100 people pay here.
November 12, 200520 yr you need to take the stub axles out. that's what requires the E-10 Torx socket. you may need to reassemble eveything first, so as to not damage the bearings on the carrier..... Here is the picture of the Torx screw that needs to come out from the sub axel. By the way, Later models of Diffs ie. 1990 Legacy/WRX etc, do they require special tool? Because there isn't any torx screw there from what I can see. Cheers AP
November 12, 200520 yr This is a picture of two diffs, left side one is open diff - 3.7:1 from L series 4WD, and right side is from an Legacy (Liberty), its an LSD diff 3.9:1. I have to change from 3.9:1 to 3.7:1 to suit my Liberty. Can you tell me what kind of LSD is it? is it Clutch Pack or Viscous LSD? As far I know, I bought this from a mate of mine, he said it was from RX Leone? Before I take apart/put together what do I need to do for service with that LSD? Is there any special tools that require taking the diff apart (I'm aware about the torx tool, gonna get one today) and I have the CV joints seals for the spines. What else? What kind of oil should I use (please, good recommendations), what oil rating shall I use/LSD oil?? Cheers & thanks AP
November 12, 200520 yr That looks like a clutch pack LSD and that's what I would expect if it came out of a RX. I think most of us here in the States use Kendall special LSD lube. Don't know if they sell that stuff in Australia and I'm not sure what the viscosity is. I think it's also ok to use regular gear oil and add a tube of LSD special addative, although I've never tried it. As for servicing the diff, I've never messed with the guts, just swapped the ratio like you're doing. Somewhere online, I think on a Datsun 510 website, there is a copy of the factory service instructions for rebuilding the clutchpack LSD. Maybe someone can supply the link since I can't find it. I heard somewhere that the clutch plates can be flipped over or something to get worn plates to hook up more solidly. Hope that helps a little.
February 17, 200818 yr Ok If you have any question (like I did) about what and where to grind on the case when doing the swap. Take the 3.7 and the 3.9 cases, side by side w/ the rear cover off and look on the inside on the drivers side diff cap. Note the Grind marks that are not on the 3.9 case. Its really not that much. Its just enough to get the ring gear teeth to clear the case. Dont fret, A carbide bit takes it down very quickly. If you keep the 3.7 case next to you when grinding you can look back and forth at how much you need to take out, instead of cleaning and test fitting a bunch. I have done a few diffs in the past few years that didnt use shims to set backlash, they can be difficult! If you are worried about this swap dont be. Its very simple. Just make sure you keep everything seperate, get your side caps on the correct side and keep a very clean area. You should have no issues. Jess
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