I have some situations (never problems) with my 85 GL-10 turbo wagon,Auto. The best way to ask is probably point form.

 

#1 - The brakes have been "soft" since I bought it one month ago and getting a bit softer all the time. Just recently the brake light comes on when I depress the brake peddle. It still brakes fine,just a little soft. My dad thinks brake booster. Some one on USMB previously gave me the proper brake bleeding order but I forget it. note: my wagon is 4 wheel disc.

 

#2 - There has been a hesitation in pickup when I first press the gas pedal that feels like a blocked fuel line or something, but when I press the cruise control button on the dash in (not actually engaging the cruise) it seems to go away?

 

#3 - What do I look for to know if I have adjustable suspension? I've heard of different types and would like to know if I have this feature.

 

#4 - Whats the best way to blow up my 86 ford f-250 work truck so I never have to be subject to that form of vehicle design again?

i can really only try to answer.........i say start by bleeding your brakes.......clean out your fuel lines by trying seafoam which is available at your local parts store....following instructions as they are stated on the bottle and most important of all take as many gallon jugs you can find and fill them with gas,place them in your trucks bed ,preferably in a field somewhere and put the tailgate down,tape them all together ,place pieces of metal to all of them and get your fav. shotgun out........

oh yeah, and videotape the explosion for us.....

#2 might be something easy like a sticky throttle cable/foot pedal?

 

how long has it been since the standard tune up stuff? (plugs, cap, rotor, etc)

#1 tHE BRAKE LIGHT COMING ON IS TELLING YOU THAT YOU NEED TO ADD BRAKE FKUID TO THE MASTERCYLINDER. There, now that the caps lock is off its not like I am yelling. Top off the master, and bleed the brakes, starting with the brake furthest away from the master, which would be the pass rear, then driver rear, pass. front, driver front. Keep and eye on the fluid level in the master. if it seems to be disappering then you might have a leak. Oh yeah, it might not be a bad idea to check out you brake pads and see how they look also. Dang, I can be long winded somtimes.

#4 If that F 250 is 4x4 and runs good, you can give it to me I know I know, its not a subaru, but there are times when a full size 4x4 pickup would be good to have around the property.

#1 tHE BRAKE LIGHT COMING ON IS TELLING YOU THAT YOU NEED TO ADD BRAKE FKUID TO THE MASTERCYLINDER. There, now that the caps lock is off its not like I am yelling. Top off the master, and bleed the brakes, starting with the brake furthest away from the master, which would be the pass rear, then driver rear, pass. front, driver front.

 

Right and wrong

 

Right - the light is coming on because your fluid levels are low.

 

Wrong - Do not bleed the brakes as though its a RWD car. Subaru brakes, as with a majority of FWD/AWD cars are bled in an X pattern (Front right/rear left, Fron Left/Rear right)

 

 

That covers #1

 

#2 There ar a million and one reasons that EA82Ts hesitate. if you suspect it has something to do with the cruise setup, it could be vacuum or electrical related. Time to update those old vaccum lines and clean electrical contacts anyway;)

 

#3 Adjustable suspension. On the rear you will see the spring perch has a ratcheting type adjuster. Neat, but no fun to adjust. Requires removal of rear strut and compression of spring.

- Fronts, you will see 2 studs that come from the bottom of the spring perches with 21mm nuts on them. turn to adjust up or down

i'd suggest donating the truck to charity and rewarding yourself with a nice fat tax write-off.

 

Wrong - Do not bleed the brakes as though its a RWD car. Subaru brakes, as with a majority of FWD/AWD cars are bled in an X pattern (Front right/rear left, Fron Left/Rear right)n

 

I never knew that there was a difference in how the brake were bled if the car is rwd or fwd.

Wait a minute, doesn't this depend on if how the braking system is put to gether, not if the car is fwd or not?

#2 - There has been a hesitation in pickup when I first press the gas pedal that feels like a blocked fuel line or something, but when I press the cruise control button on the dash in (not actually engaging the cruise) it seems to go away?

 

When did you last change your fuel filter?

 

 

I never knew that there was a difference in how the brake were bled if the car is rwd or fwd.

Wait a minute, doesn't this depend on if how the braking system is put to gether, not if the car is fwd or not?

 

the braking system on these subarus is dual-diagonal (left front/right rear on same circuit) - hence the X pattern for bleeding

 

fwd/rwd/awd/4wd has nothing to do with the brakes - I have seen rwd cars with the same style dual-diagonal brake systems - I have also seen fwd cars with the front/rear split - everything is possible!!!

 

I think the dual-diagonal setup on soobs is mainly for the benifit of the hill-holder systems

 

ALWAYS CHECK THE TYPE OF BRAKE SYSTEM BEFORE BLEEDING!!!!!

maybe the throttle pos. sensor is bad. try checking the codes

 

if your car is 4wd is should have the adjastable struts for 85-86 4wd

 

to blow up the truck get it stuck then try to get out.

the braking system on these subarus is dual-diagonal (left front/right rear on same circuit) - hence the X pattern for bleeding

 

fwd/rwd/awd/4wd has nothing to do with the brakes - I have seen rwd cars with the same style dual-diagonal brake systems - I have also seen fwd cars with the front/rear split - everything is possible!!!

 

I think the dual-diagonal setup on soobs is mainly for the benifit of the hill-holder systems

 

Yeah thats what I thuoght, I mattered if it was front to rear or not when beeding brakes.

Yeah thats what I thuoght, I mattered if it was front to rear or not when beeding brakes.

 

It doesn't matter specifically.. Its simply more common in my experience for FWD and a number of AWD cars to have the diagonal braking system (thus my use of the word 'majority' and not the word 'all'), whereas, again in my experience, it is more common for RWD cars to have the front/back setup.

remember to press brake pedal slowly and not fast, will froth brake fluid if you go fast.

 

 

 

 

~Josh~

On the line of the brake light coming on - the light is on *all the time* in my wagon (the previous owner had black tape over the light!). The fluid is good and the brakes work great and have good pad (they are not soft at all when braking). Any ideas why the light would stay on even when there is plenty of fluid and brakes are perfectly operational? I'm not one to cover up a problem, I want to FIX it

On the line of the brake light coming on - the light is on *all the time* in my wagon (the previous owner had black tape over the light!). The fluid is good and the brakes work great and have good pad (they are not soft at all when braking). Any ideas why the light would stay on even when there is plenty of fluid and brakes are perfectly operational? I'm not one to cover up a problem, I want to FIX it

Makes me think bad brake sending unit - check the floats in the brake fluid resivouir

Makes me think bad brake sending unit - check the floats in the brake fluid resivouir

 

I guess my nose goes back in the book to find that sending unit location - I guess replace it and see if that fixes it and go from there..... I hate replacing stuff that I'm not sure will fix something