Since before I got my car, the key has been broken off in the ignition. I've just been using a stub of a key to start it. I discussed this a month or so ago, but one thing I don't think I mentioned was that the ignition sticks with the starter engaged unless you turn it back to the run position. Is this because of the broken off key or does it happen to others regardless if the key is intact or not? I was going to just leave it like it is because the locksmith wants a minimum of $60 to get the key stub out (he tried to pull it out with special tools, but concluded it would need to be pulled apart to get it out since it seems like the key is bent/twisted slightly inside the mechanism and is too tight to pull free. I would pay to have him take out the stub IF I knew that would also repair the sticking in 'start' position.

 

Also, just headed out to put a new muffler on my car this morning! Got a great quote for $50 installed! Can't beat that!

I would just get another lock from PAP if you can find one with a key (or you can get the keycode off the door lock on the donor car). A little tricky to get off (bring a portable drill so you can remove the "theftproof" screws) but no big deal; practice on another car so you can avoid destroying the lock that you want. This is quite a common problem with the older subes; I just paid $100+ to replace the lock cylinder in mine and have it re-keyed to match my old key.

Since before I got my car, the key has been broken off in the ignition. I've just been using a stub of a key to start it. I discussed this a month or so ago, but one thing I don't think I mentioned was that the ignition sticks with the starter engaged unless you turn it back to the run position. Is this because of the broken off key or does it happen to others regardless if the key is intact or not? I was going to just leave it like it is because the locksmith wants a minimum of $60 to get the key stub out (he tried to pull it out with special tools, but concluded it would need to be pulled apart to get it out since it seems like the key is bent/twisted slightly inside the mechanism and is too tight to pull free. I would pay to have him take out the stub IF I knew that would also repair the sticking in 'start' position.

 

Also, just headed out to put a new muffler on my car this morning! Got a great quote for $50 installed! Can't beat that!

Almost sounds like the piece of key might be what's causing the binding, at least in part. I think I'd take the chance that $60 and some penetrating oil would fix it. Unless, the binding is what edrach meant was a common problem. Guess it kind of depends on what PAP wants for a new cylinder mechanism, too.

 

Some manufacturers put a hole in the opposite end of the lock cylinder from the keyhole, just for this situation. I just had my ignition switch off the other day and I don't recall if there is a hole or not. I presuming there isn't or someone would have mentioned it. But, we'd look pretty silly if that's how the locksmith gets it out.

Ed is correct. The binding happens after the weight of a handful of keys for several years wears down the internals. I just removed a lockset from a parts car I have and the anti-theft pins need to be drilled out. The front one is easy, the one in the back you need to drop the steering column to get to. The actual switch is on the back of the lockset and can be removed and turned with a key, screwdriver or whatever. But the key needs to be in the ignition so it keeps the steering wheel unlocked.

TriFlow is an excellent lubricant for locks, its a SherwinWilliams product, downside-expensive, it fixed mine though...