SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 OKAY! So I THINK this is the problems... See those green wires that turn into red wires? They gotta hook up to SOMETHING... one of them if I stick it to the positive lead it starts making this ticking noise.. but when i try and turn it over with the ignition it just goes *CLICK* The other one I can't find a purpose for. If I hook the one up to the positive lead and use an ignition bypass.. the car will start and run just fine... WTF IS GOING ON WITH THIS THING?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet82 Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Do you have a wiring diagram for the vehicle? I'm not sure which wires your talking about??? Your probably one of the few people who can actually help this lady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richieroo Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Send a pic so we can see what you are talking about. You sent one of the car already once,..... Get a close up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Is the pic not working? Yes I have the book on it but the diagram is a POS... http://gallery.usmb.net/album17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 bump.. pic is working now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Those wires that are linked threw that connector go to the trany, not to the starter. The starter only needs three inputs. Ground, Equal Pos Lead, and a 12 Volt On The ground is taken care of without using wires, the bell housing is the ground. The positive lead is under the boot leading to the battery. The 12 volt is the smaller wire. Here ya go: How to hot wire a EA81 Subaru Remove the lower under dash shield, the one right under the steering wheel. Unplug the connector that sticks in the back of the ign switch. There should be four wires if I remember correctly; an alwalys hot from bat, an acc on, an on, and a starter feed. Do some testing with a small wire to find the hot from battery. Complete the circuit to the acc on and on using two wires from the hot, then spark the starter feed with a third wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Okay that's what I thought.. I'm going to have to solder them to that sensor?? Is that sensor bad if it's not starting? With those wires touching that sensor the starter motor wont even *Click* ... it does NOTHING. Keep the suggestions flowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Okay that's what I thought.. I'm going to have to solder them to that sensor?? Is that sensor bad if it's not starting? With those wires touching that sensor the starter motor wont even *Click* ... it does NOTHING. Keep the suggestions flowing. The soob will start without thoses wires connected. Try hot wiring it. if that doesn't work plan B. Check the connection and then swap the relay. OR go to napa, get 14 gauge wire, a 50-75 Amp manual switch and a inline 30 Amp fuse link. Tell me if you have a multimeter or test light. I'll be more than happy to help youu threw this if you want me to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 The soob will start without thoses wires connected. Try hot wiring it. if that doesn't work plan B. Check the connection and then swap the relay. OR go to napa, get 14 gauge wire, a 50-75 Amp manual switch and a inline 30 Amp fuse link. Tell me if you have a multimeter or test light. I'll be more than happy to help youu threw this if you want me to. Okay how do I hot wire.. If I use an ignition bypass and give one of those wires, but not the other, a positive lead from the battery, it will start and run (that wire doesnt need the lead to stay running)... that's the only way i can figure out how to start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Also.. when I give that wire power.. the voltage meter in the dash comes on too... (I dont have a multimeter or test light) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Remove the lower under dash shield, the one right under the steering wheel. Unplug the connector that sticks in the back of the ign switch. There should be four wires if I remember correctly; an alwalys hot from bat, an acc on, an on, and a starter feed. Do some testing with a small wire to find the hot from battery. Complete the circuit to the acc on and on using two wires from the hot, then spark the starter feed with a third wire. Sorry but I need more info. Which wire, and when? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Inside the hood.. those wires that go to the tranny sensor.. there is ONE of those two that if it's getting power I can "bypass" the ignition (on the starter motor) to start the car.. I'll go try to find the hotwire on the ignition right now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Inside the hood.. those wires that go to the tranny sensor.. there is ONE of those two that if it's getting power I can "bypass" the ignition (on the starter motor) to start the car.. I'll go try to find the hotwire on the ignition right now.. When you connect that sensor wire to the starter on wire (the small one) does the starter turn or do you have to turn the key after the wire is connected? That sensor wire must be getting a current when used. If the starter is turning just by having the key on and connect the sensor wire to 12 V starter on, then hot wire the car and tell me what happens. #1 Most likely the car will start by using three small wire leads. If that works your ign switch sucks, cheap fix. Splice the on lead (the one that lights up the dash lights) to the ign switch, just rip out the wire that cranks the starter at the connector. Buy a 25-50 amp switch and make shift it to one of the holes that lead into the dash. Hook up those two wires to the new switch and there you go. When the key is no fully use the switch to crank the started. If the car car won't start, still a cheap fix as well but you will need more stuff. Got to go to work for awhile I'll check back when I get home. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Okay I haven't tried hot wiring it yet.. You know how a bypass works basically connecting the big wire (positive lead) to the little wire (12v?) on the starter motor? If i touch that sensor wire to the big one, positive lead, and use the bypass to crank the motor it WILL Start, and WILL run without the sensor wire touching the positive lead anymore. if i try to use the key to crank it (with the sensor wire touching the lead), it just goes *CLICK* (without that sesnor wire touching the lead it does NOTHING.) Going out right NOW to try the hot wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 Okay, I'm an IDIOT! "Green Red Green" mean anything to everybody? "Red" was broke but didn't show any external signs of being damaged.. DOH! Oh well.. learning learning learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 same thing happened with my Dad's 83 Wagon. Red FL went, but no signs. replaced it ,and back in business... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 yeah i wish i woulda checked it "Better" before i tore the whole dash apart Oh well.. it's all back together now and ready to go. Her Brights dont work.. and the gas pedal is really stiff... among other problems... needs a driver side axle... inner cv boot is TOAST. I could go on all night. But YaY I'm done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_bard Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Sounds like it has issues. And not to sound like I've got issues, but I missed the red-green-red bit. What's the red, some sorta of inline fuse? :-\ (Hey, if I don't ask, I won't know, right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 There is a box in your engine bay near your battery / coil / etc... and on top of the box it says "Green" "Red" "Green" or "Green" "Red" "Red" or something to that nature.. they are "Fusable Links" (FL) The one in the middle is the red FL and belongs to the ignition. It was blown but you couldn't tell because it didnt burn through the fiber that is wrapped around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Just got home from work. Good to hear it was just a fuse link, and now you know half of the ignition system of a EA81!!!! Sorry for leading you into the dash, but glad it an easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 Sorry for leading you into the dash, but glad it an easy fix. NP!!! I already had the thing apart by the time you suggested that! I just didnt know how to hot wire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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