The saga continues.

 

Here's the deal. 88 SPFI. New long block, new everything else for the most part.

 

Car runs great at speed, has wongleflute for power right off idle.

 

When I pull the wires on 1 and 3 at idle, nothing happens. If I pull 2/4, engine stumbles and dies. Above idle the motor is sloppy with 1/3 disconnected, so it seems those two are firing at higher rpm.

 

I haven't verified spark on that side besides the fact the timing light works on #1 and I've electrocuted myself over there a few times.

 

I'm 99.9% sure there isn't a vaccum leak.

It's not throwing any codes.

I've tried a few different caps and wire sets, also rotated the plugs between the cylinders to no effect.

 

So could I have a bad distributor? Any other suggestions are aprreciated.

have you checked to see if you got the timing belt off a tooth or two?

timing belt or the timing belt tensioner on that side possibly.

 

swap distributors.

have you checked your timing? that shouldn't be the problem, but have you checked it and been able to properly time the distributor?

have you checked to see if you got the timing belt off a tooth or two?

Well, I considered the belts but all the marks line up, or seem to to my inexperienced eye. I've checked the timing about 100 times.

Well, I considered the belts but all the marks line up, or seem to to my inexperienced eye. I've checked the timing about 100 times.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

use that guide to double-check them - they should not necessarily be "on the mark"

or look here for part of the FSM for an '89 - same engine - service proceedure very clear there too

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

use that guide to double-check them - they should not necessarily be "on the mark"

That's what I used to do them. Also, the belts were intially setup by the builders, I only redid them when I pulled the covers off. Car ran the same before and after. Doesn't mean they were right, but it would seem so...

I think I would try a different distributor.

When is the last time you changed the timing belt? Maybe it is getting a little worn.

 

I took me a day to find the Specs in Chiltons for my 85 Wagon. I honestly dont know how the marks are supposed to line up. But I know somwhere deep in the Chilton's the exact Specs should be listed. Have a buddy help so you don't get shocked again. Also on one of my older GLs the Rotor cap didnt have anything keeping it from getting spun around.

 

Some of those you can only put it on one way. Idiot proof, but on 85 I had that thing all cockeyed. So hope you can get something from this.

 

Dont rule out Spark Plug wires and Spark Plugs if you havn't checked those yet. Thanks

Possibly the plug wires are

 

reversed

 

Swap the wires you have going to cylinder one

with cyl three.

are those cylinders getting gas?

 

last week I unplugged all my injectors and tested them. However, when plugging them back in, I managed to get two that looked plugged in, but actually weren't.

 

horrible power, if I unplugged two wires the engine didn't change, unplug the other two and it would die - same as what you're experiencing.

 

I also just put new plugs in and after taking them out, it was obvious which cylinders had gas and which ones didn't.

 

just a thought.

Possibly the plug wires are reversed

Hey I'm pretty slow, but I'm not a moran. /Quietly checks the wires...

 

are those cylinders getting gas?

Well, that's the thing. Spark plugs were white on that side, brown on the other. I'm pretty dam sure there isn't a vaccum leak now that my egr valve is in the trash....

 

I'm gonna go out now and recheck the pass side t-belt, I guess that does really make the most sense.

are those cylinders getting gas?

It's a SPFI car - one fuel injector - if it is not plugged in, nothing gets gas

 

I would guess T-belt or wires (check resistance with multimeter - all four should be about the same)

It's a SPFI car - one fuel injector - if it is not plugged in, nothing gets gas

Well, couldn't a severe vac leak on the pass side of the intake keep that side from getting gas?

 

My point being, I removed the egr and did the belts at the same time. Maybe it ran crappy before cause of the vac leak, and runs similarly crappy now casue I screwed up the belts.

 

Why am on the internet when I should be in the driveway?

It's a SPFI car - one fuel injector - if it is not plugged in, nothing gets gas

 

 

hee hee.. d'oh

 

next time I'll read the entire post

 

 

back on topic, it is interesting how the plugs on that side are still white. Would tend to make me think it's not getting gas... as to why, I'm not sure.

 

have you pulled those plugs after cranking and tried to smell gas? Maybe disconnect the coil and compare to the side that is firing correctly?

OK here's where I'm at

 

There's definetly spark over there.

 

Resistance on the 1/3 wires is a bit higher, but that's just cause they're longer, right? I tested a bunch of other random wires that were laying around too, and mine seem ballpark. These are cut-to-length accell superstock wires (all that was available) and I crimped the ends on with an actual crimping tool

 

I switched the wires just for fun and the engine started then died (when I gave it gas).

 

I tired the pass t-belt a tooth in both directions to no effect. I put them back where I had um, which looks the most correct. I've attached pics of where it's set.

 

I don't have another disty to try. I can time then engine effectively, so maybe that's not it anyway?

 

Like I said above the plugs on the bad side were white, before I touched the belts / removed the egr. Could it be some kind of fuel delivery problem? I was thinking of getting the fuel pressure checked. Filter is new.

I would recommend you check the compression of all the cylinders.

I would recommend you check the compression of all the cylinders.

The long block only has 400 miles on it. I can check it just for fun though.

My '88 SPFI had the same issues. Had a real bad tick from passenger side head for a long time. Started stumbling real bad from idle when I dumped it or even when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Compression check showed #1 cylinder running at 100 psi & should be about 157. All others were ok. Pulled passenger side head, took to shop for a resurface & valve job. Machinist found cracks between valves went way down into vale ports. Replaced head & reinstalled. compression test showed about 157psi on all afterwards. Still had bad stumbling & bucking at low rpm (especially under load). Started looking at coil I found that my wires under the coil that go to the power transistor were really corroded especially at the coil. Removed them & cleaned them up with a wire brush at the ring connectors. Reseated all other connections in that area & seemed to have solved my problem. Just my $.02 & didn't cost a thing, except for the head job that needed to be done anyway. Now have more power & better mpg than in last 5+ years.

It does seem kind of strange to measure the compression with a new engine but doing so will either eliminate that as a problem or show that something is wrong. You have checked spark so we know that is ok (at least if is at the right time). That leaves fuel and compression as the other possible problems. You will also see how close all the numbers are together, so it really isn't a waste of time.

I'd get a can of carb cleaner out, and spray around that side of the intake ports, and see if one of the intake gaskets, (if more than one) has a vacume leak, the carb cleaner will make the engine either idle faster, or smoother... if theres a leak on the gasket. My brat's first emissions attempt failed because it had a bad intake gasket on the driver's side. and it idled real rough. It was getting to much air on that side to burn the fuel in cylenders 2 and 4 at idle.

I've sprayed carb and starting fluid around, that's how I found the egr leak. Nothing at the intake ports, which have new gaskets btw. I'll go do some more spraying, got nothing else to try today.

Hey Jim---Thanks for the $.02, it may be worth alot more someday!

Hey Singl---After compression testing, I'd consider poor sensors. Particularly if it runs poorly before the engine is warmed up.

Hey Singl---After compression testing, I'd consider poor sensors. Particularly if it runs poorly before the engine is warmed up.

 

Coolant Temp sensor, O2 sensor are both new, and the TPS is in spec with the FSM.

 

I'd say it runs best just before it gets fully warmed up.

OK Singl----Now we know by compression check that we don't have any upside down rings, misaligned cam gears, etc.. Your getting at least a good 1/2" spark arc to the plugs. The next step is to check all the sensors and actuators according to the manual specs. But first I'd disconnect the O2 sensor, take the vehicle for a 10 mile drive to see how it runs differently.

OK, I got a compression tester. Ready for this?

 

1: 80

2: 110

3: 70

4: 100

 

Whoo-boy, I'm glad I got a new engine. Did I mention it ticks like a mofo?

 

The motor has about 5-600 miles on it. Opinions?