RavenTBK Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 But thats only on the rear correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 If you have front adjustable struts than no its both. For some reason my 86 GL has the front adjustable struts! I didn't even know they put them on the EA82 till I bought Les's suub. But thats only on the rear correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Yes 85-86 GL wagons had adjustable struts on them. You could use them to lift the car slightly, but its going to have a horrible effect on tire wear and axle wear.. Why hasnt anyone figured out LONGER TRAVEL STRUTS? Rear coil over shocks from a 1984 GMC S-15 pickup would be easily modified to fit on the rear of a subaru. And you would be gaining travel instead of just body lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4mudrat Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I can honestly say that there is no way in Hell a byb lift could get this much flex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brumby Boy Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Someone may have answered this already but does AA make a 4" X 4" kit for the 92 Brumbies and would they be certified for use in Quensland Australia???:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 How do I certify them in Australia? I hear that you have to have an engineers approval. If some one could direct me to an engineer in australia I could send him the C.A.D. drawings!!! Help me out. James Malarkey CEO Allied Armament www.alliedarmament.com Someone may have answered this already but does AA make a 4" X 4" kit for the 92 Brumbies and would they be certified for use in Quensland Australia???:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 If you're looking for a mule to use for fabbing up a lift kit for a gen1 brat. I have a '78 that you can have. It's too far gone to be usefull for anything else, but the suspension is all there. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I dunno how I missed this thread.... What does the front diff hanger look like!?!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 hi if you would be able to use spanky petes brat as a mule, that would be great! because i am all the way on the other side of the country in NY.i am very interested in a lift though and would pay shipping.thanks for posting Pete! jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 Do you mean the rear diff hanger? I dunno how I missed this thread.... What does the front diff hanger look like!?!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4mudrat Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 You cannot certify them in Australia as a body lift. Maximum body lift allowable is 50mm by the Australian Design Rules (ADR). This is an "Owner Certified Modification" hence does not require a Certificate of Compliance. You cannot comply a body lift that's any bigger. Australian Design Rules are law and there is no subjectivity in this clause. The is a way around this however: One can argue that as a Subaru does not have a ladder-frame chassis and separate body unit the lift kit is not really a body lift at all and hence is not subject to the ruling of the ADRs in this area. The vehicle is however subject to the same scrutany and tests that any roadworthy vehicle in Australia will have to pass, ie tortional rigidity, lane-change and braking. Notice that the vehicle not the lift kit is subject to these tests. I don't know how your steering extensions are built, but here is a good side point: welding or heating of steering componants is dissallowed under the ADRs. There is no exception. You can x-ray, crack-test and destruction test your steering extensions all you want, but the law is the law and there is no subjectivity on this one. One more thing: PLEASE STOP COMPARING YOUR LIFT KITS TO BYB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 hay spanky pete, i just noticed in the new photos section pics of your parts brat.is that the one you were talking about? jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobmater Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Like noah said, isnt that the same one that was in the comparison with the byb lift on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 I pulled the 3 inch BYB lift out and put a 4'' Allied Armament lift in it. I should take photos and do the comparison now. Its easy to tell just look at the rear end it doesnt sit below the frame like a byb. Like noah said, isnt that the same one that was in the comparison with the byb lift on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 Ha ha ha I have a little secret about the steering rods, their a factory made part. You cannot certify them in Australia as a body lift. Maximum body lift allowable is 50mm by the Australian Design Rules (ADR). This is an "Owner Certified Modification" hence does not require a Certificate of Compliance. You cannot comply a body lift that's any bigger. Australian Design Rules are law and there is no subjectivity in this clause. The is a way around this however: One can argue that as a Subaru does not have a ladder-frame chassis and separate body unit the lift kit is not really a body lift at all and hence is not subject to the ruling of the ADRs in this area. The vehicle is however subject to the same scrutany and tests that any roadworthy vehicle in Australia will have to pass, ie tortional rigidity, lane-change and braking. Notice that the vehicle not the lift kit is subject to these tests. I don't know how your steering extensions are built, but here is a good side point: welding or heating of steering componants is dissallowed under the ADRs. There is no exception. You can x-ray, crack-test and destruction test your steering extensions all you want, but the law is the law and there is no subjectivity on this one. One more thing: PLEASE STOP COMPARING YOUR LIFT KITS TO BYB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Do you mean the rear diff hanger? The front hanger for the rear diff. :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 The rear diff is lowered in the back 1" by extensions in between the body mustache bar the front of the rear diff is bolted on with factory bolts. There is about a 3 degree angle on the rear diff so on approach it will slide better. I remember Jon (mudrat) saying that the diff had to be perfectly flat or it will sustain damage, well he freaked me out with that comment. So we pulled the rear diff. on the blue car apart and checked it out and its still getting oil and everything is a okay. I can put pictures up or send them to you if you'd like Also I know that you were interested in the lift how do you like the articulation??? No getting hung up in the back end; and now that we eliminated drilling the mustachebar and lowering the pumpkin it keeps the rear end nicely tucked for going over large rocks. The front hanger for the rear diff. :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 I was under the impression there was another piece to go between the rear x-member and the front of the rear diff so it would hang level. That's what was indicated in the "comparison" thread. Behold my vbulletin formating skills: If you are dropping the Diff at the rear....as in drilling the mustache bar...Are you also dropping the front of the rear diff...? where it mounts to the cross tube..and driveline...?? If not, you are going to kill the Pinion bearing prematurely due to lack of oil getting to it....??? The Front of the rear diff has to be dropped in order for the bolts to align correctly. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 It wouldn't be hard to make one. its just a hanger, do you think I should make one? I was under the impression there was another piece to go between the rear x-member and the front of the rear diff so it would hang level. That's what was indicated in the "comparison" thread. Behold my vbulletin formating skills: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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