Well.. we finally got it done. Smogged, Inspected, Registered, Titled - All for the low low price of $36 dollars. Our "1984 Suba BGL PU" according to the state of Arizona (I can only assume this means 1984 Subaru Brat GL Pick-up) is legal and running decent! 236,800 miles on the odo. A few dints and dings.. very little rust. Missing one of the jumpseat handles (it broke off sometime before we bought it.)

We're still curious to see a car fax on this one.. if anyone could help us out with that, we'd appreciate it very much.

( - JF2AT53B2EE504633 - )

A couple of fun facts: First registered - JULY 1984! ; List price: 007579.

Score! we picked it up for $800!!!

 

Just a couple of uhmm.. concerns.. My last tank of gas I went approx ~280 miles on 14 gallons of 91 octane. I know the 91 is too much for the brat.. but I did it mostly to help(?) pass emissions. This means I'm only getting 20 mpg. ouch. I'm running 87 from Chevron now.. The needle seems to be moving about the same with the 60 or 80 miles i put on this new gas. So what can I do to improve mileage here? I'm thinking... clean the carb.. go a little easier on the motor.. (keep rpms between 2-3k at all times.) It goes ~70 at 3 grand in 4th gear... It also likes to go up to 4 grand with a little too much ease..

Would a brake pad having a little play cause enough drag to lose a few mpg? (Anyone got a couple sets of those brake pad clippy things?) Any tips or links to good threads on improving mpg in these old carby cars.

 

Oh one more thing... You guys think I should adjust the lifters? I bet they've never been touched.. or if they have been.. they are kinda "diesel" sounding... and wish me luck getting this job at a "Subaru Specialist" Japanese Unlimited!!!

things that help mileage

 

hot weather

slightly advanced timing

clean air filter

maybe put the tailgate down?

new plugs, wires. rotor and cap

of course assuming the carb is on great shape.

 

edit adjust the valve lash, use new gaskets, why would you hesitate to do this?

things that help mileage

 

hot weather [check - 90+ everyday]

slightly advanced timing [~9 BTDC]

clean air filter [check]

maybe put the tailgate down? [ah, the eternal debate... would it really save me a mpg or two?]

new plugs, wires. rotor and cap [check, check, check.]

of course assuming the carb is on great shape.[uhmm... ]

edit adjust the valve lash, use new gaskets, why would you hesitate to do this?

 

Is it a solid lifter engine or hydraulic? If hydraulic, don't even think about adjusting them unless it's absolutely necessary. Solid lifters I would certainly adjust your valve clearances.

Is it a solid lifter engine or hydraulic? If hydraulic, don't even think about adjusting them unless it's absolutely necessary. Solid lifters I would certainly adjust your valve clearances.

 

Well.. I'm not sure.. I've read a few threads here and there about ways to tell.. but I'm still not sure. It's an all original 1984 GL Brat EA81... The valve cover gaskets had to be replaced.. I also did the oil pan gasket, oil filter, air filter, pcv valve, etc, etc... I guess I should do the oil pump gasket... if not the whole oil pump.. That's one thing I forgot to mention.. My pressure if kinda low.. I dunno if it's a faulty sender or bad pressure.. but most the time under load I'm getting like ~25 Psi.. in the morning I'll see ~35Psi for maybe 45 mins or an hour.. sometimes at idle I dont have any? pressure... I'm using 10w30 because it's what I had at the time.. but I'm gonna do another oil change and use.. 10w40 or something like that? ... So.. any good threads on adjusting lifters??

some times the oil pump with pick up the sludge and and it will get stuck to the screen and the oil pressure will drop it usually takes 20-30min let me guess the motor sounds fine on start up (with good pressure) then as the pressure drops the noises come out ..........if this sounds to be your poision drop the pan and dig the sludge out and replace/clean the pump

Well.. I'm not sure.. I've read a few threads here and there about ways to tell.. but I'm still not sure. It's an all original 1984 GL Brat EA81...

If its really the original engine, it should have solid lifters.. according to all that I've read about the year by year changes.

 

Then OTOH, again if its really all original, the valvecovers would have stickers just under the breather tube with big letters "dont adjust the valves" if its a hydraulic engine.

 

A third way, again if its the original engine, look at the emissions sticker up under the hood. If the "Valve Lash" adjustment is 0, then its hydraulic. If it says .010/.014, its solid lifter.

 

Adjusting the valves is easy foscheezy. The Haynes/Chiltons description of how to do such is more than adequate. Do you really need a howto?

Nah I guess I don't need a how to.. i just hate those bookes I'm gonna go look at the emission sticker now.. the valve covers dont have any stickers on them.. thx.

actually, I think the owners manual states we should run 90 or higher....

 

and I always have better luck running the higher in my neck of the woods

Dropping your tailgate WILL give you a few more MPG. I have done that for years. I pick up 3 mpg in my 87 Isuzu with the gate dropped.

 

I would rebuild/clean the carb, adjust the float, and adjust the air/fuel mixture.

My 86 hatch 4WD 4 speed, (since sold) was getting 37 mpg after doing just that.