i'm getting ready to rebuild my egine in my 87 gl10, do to blown head gasket or craked head. i was wonder what i could do to get like 150 or maybe a little more. when she was running i could smoke a wv jetta(talk about an ego killer). i plan on running an inter cooler and fabing up a bigger crosspipe and maybe a strait 2" or 2.5" exhaust. i was thinkg about maybe 2 more psi of boost but i read some where that it had problems if you turn up the boost past stock.

i'm getting ready to rebuild my egine in my 87 gl10, do to blown head gasket or craked head. i was wonder what i could do to get like 150 or maybe a little more. when she was running i could smoke a wv jetta(talk about an ego killer). i plan on running an inter cooler and fabing up a bigger crosspipe and maybe a strait 2" or 2.5" exhaust. i was thinkg about maybe 2 more psi of boost but i read some where that it had problems if you turn up the boost past stock.

 

Search in the Older Generation of Subarus Forum for the word 'dyno' in the title. You should come up with some useful information from a guy named Will or 'WJM' as well as others.

 

Also, type in '1987 RX Turbo at the drags last night ' in the search title in the same forum. There is a guy with an interestnig solution to adding extra fuel that's needed when the boost is turned up.

i think i'm goign to go to a place called ram engines, spend like $1200 is and get forged pistons, regruond cam and all that other good stuff. theses guys can get 140hp out of an ea81 n/a. i don't know how hard that is to believe, but the site seems to make it seem like most people think its next to inpossible. i did find this site on here some where else i think, someone was talking about pistons

also look into o-ringing the cylinders and port and polish the heads as well as a three angle valve job.

should help out a bit

 

the o-ringing should keep the head gaskets from blowing out unless you go outta your way to do so. im getting my first engine completely worked over by a shop that builds race winning engines.

yeah i wanted to port and polish it, but i didn't know about the three angle valve job, what is that suppose to do? i have seen my friend do a regrind at his dads machine shope before.

the valve job should help with getting more air into the chamber when the valves open. it also gives it a smoother transition into the cylender. talk to a machinist at an engine shop or a tuner. they will be able to get you more info on the topic than i could.

I'm the guy with the "interesting way to add more fuel under boost".

 

The 3 angle valve job is VERY important and often overlooked. The most flow through the valves actually happens at LOW lift for a very short time. The 3 angle, if done properly, increases this flow at low lift. This makes torque. Don't be sold on a 5 angle valve job unless you plan on freshening up the heads after every other race. The 3 angle gives great performance with good longevity.

run a megasquirt, bigger exhaust will help, but it will also help to get a cone filter and larger intercooler piping. you might want to consider running the turbo off of a WRX (TD04). you can run more boost out of it. i'm pretty sure its safe to run 12psi on the stock internals? hope that helps.

-Victor

on a stock engine, stock turbo, stock internals, stock ECU...just a header/downpipe/intercooler/intake and a boost controller@15 PSI...I was able to extract 240hp and 320tq out of it. NOT safe by any means as it runs lean....but REALIABLY with the boost at 12 PSI its making roughly 180/240 at the crank. Ive put over 20k miles on that setup (originally the engine had over 150k miles on it) with no problems. JWX now has that engine and its still running strong.

on a stock engine, stock turbo, stock internals, stock ECU...just a header/downpipe/intercooler/intake and a boost controller@15 PSI...I was able to extract 240hp and 320tq out of it. NOT safe by any means as it runs lean....but REALIABLY with the boost at 12 PSI its making roughly 180/240 at the crank. Ive put over 20k miles on that setup (originally the engine had over 150k miles on it) with no problems. JWX now has that engine and its still running strong.

 

So in my armchair theoretical mode that means this list of do-dad's I'm fixin-ta be finished with oughtta push closer to 180hp/240ftlb? WOWsers.... I was only figuring about 45hp gain....

 

with the new set of heads(valves ground either 2 or 3 angles/sided not sure now(they were built for me some 3+ yrs ago)) new seals,oil and H2O pumps, spider intake, 2.5" exhaust from turbo-back w/2.5 in/out 3-way cat, turbosonic flow thru muffler; XT6 flywheel and new XT6 OEM clutch kit, either cut way open OEM airfilter or a cone (very soon), once its driven for a little while then I'll ut the man. boost controller back on and set it about 12-13PSI for the rest of this ole girl is stock materials. Oh; ummm and a mess of Moly-B grease on pieces and a Qt of lucas oil added to the mix. (cheesy grin)

 

(sits back and watchs the xmas tree to see who launches first. (pun inforced)

yeah...you shoudl go from 75 at the wheels to about 110 at sock boost with header/TBE, intercooler and intake....with boost, about 140 at the wheels at around 12 psi.

it will also help to get a cone filter and larger intercooler piping. you might want to consider running the turbo off of a WRX (TD04). you can run more boost out of it. i'm pretty sure its safe to run 12psi on the stock internals?

 

bigger isnt always better. a td04 isnt too bad in this case, but it wouldnt hurt to reinforce the bottom end to account for the higher flow this turbo can push over the stock rbh5/vf7/wtfitscalled. also, larger dia. IC piping will lead to more turbo lag because theres more volume that needs to be pressurized.

intercooler piping is what you nee to get sized right, you dont want it too small casue then it become a restriction, too large and you loose your boost trying to pressurize the piping, you need to find a happy medium, if you get it right, you shouldnt have much if any lag caused by the plumbing, in theory.