I have 97 Outback Legacy 2.5 MT, 110k, new clutch at 100k

 

I have seen many reports on Subaru forums about this problem, namely engine/transmission rocks on throttle lift off and on again to accelerate, worst in lower gears.

 

I have this problem, been driving manuals for years and this the worst I have had in any car. I have to declutch when resuming acceleration in 2nd and 3rd, never had to do that before.

 

There seems to be varying opinions on whether to change the engine and transmission mounts for harder STI ones.

 

The ones on my car appear to be OK visually but I suppose they could be worn after that many years and miles.

 

The question is should I change tranny mounts, engine mounts or both, and should I go for OEM or the STI stiffer ones?

 

I find this problem to really spoil my owenrship of this car so want to get it fixed. I don't want to go OEM if it's not going to get much better BUT I don't want lots of noise, harshness and vibration if that's what you get from STI ones. Hoping some helpful folks here can help me out of this dilemma.

 

I plan to do the job myself, I think the tranny mount is straightforward but reading the forums seems like the engine mount on Subarus can be hard due to one bolt being hard to reach, but hopefully not such a problem on Legacy as it has bigger engine bay area than other models?

Do you mean the tendency of the engine to roll under the hood?

 

 

Joe

Do you mean the tendency of the engine to roll under the hood?

 

 

Joe

 

I mean that when am moving in 2nd gear or 3rd gear, lift off the accelerator, then try to ease the gas on again, I get a bucking of the car, really horrible unsmooth pickup.

 

My solution to avoid it is use the clutch when I want to accelerate again to ease the power in even more, but never had to do that on previous cars. Usually you have enough control with the throttle alone to ease the power back and have smooth pickup without any jerkiness

That sounds more like a fuel/ignition problem then a motor mount, but i could be wrong. Of course there is checking the obvious, inspect the motor mounts to see if they are bad. does it do it no matter what engine rpm you upshift from?

Actually sounds like a broken motor mount as opposed to a weak one.

 

joe

Did someone install a lightened flywheel? There are reports of driveability problems at low speed with lighter flywheels.

 

I dunno

to see if yours is normal. I work in San Carlos and live in San Mateo if you want to try my Forester. They do buck a bit, but your description sounds severe.

Who did your clutch job?? It is possible they left something loose? Or busted a mount and didn't fix it?? Did you have the car before the new clutch?? Did it do it before? How long after did it start if not?? Definately sounds like a mount problem... possible broken/very loose... good luck keep us posted

hmmmm, sounds just like my car:confused: I thought it was me....

 

I will be watching this thread like a hawk!

 

Kevin

My 2.2 does it ...I suspect it has something to do with the ECU shutting the injectors off during coastdown, then awakening them again too suddenly when the accelerator is summoned ...albeit ever so gently.

 

While doing my normal insane experimenting under the hood, I unplugged the IAT sensor ...triggering the CEL. When I drive the car with the sensor unplugged, the bucking is diminished. Moreso, the ability to perform smooth upshifts is markedly improved now, whereas previously the car would buck and surge upon shifting as if the driver were drunk.

 

I fabricated a piece to cover the illuminated CEL.

Depending where you live, the CEL lamp will tell on you at inspection, even if you have a calibrated optical filter (read black tape). over the bulb. Alot of locals now scan the puter for codes at inspection.

 

 

nipper

Thankfully, we have no inspection in Michigan currently, we used to have it about 14 years ago and there is talk of going back to it (ahem... the federal gubmn't is coercing the state with threats of funding cutback).

 

I'd just plug it back in for the inspection, then re-disconnect it again afterwards.

I have just gotten used to my car to the point I only notice it if I have been driving the BMW, and then drive the Forester in traffic. In stop and start traffic it is a bit of a pain in the butt.

I don't relish driving with the CEL lit & covered up on account of not knowing if & when it's lit for another reason. The light is really bright & glaring at night. Chances are, I'll know if something's wrong before the ECU does anyway.

 

It doesn't make sense, but it seriously works ...so I run with it, what the h.

 

Subaru has bugs out the wazoo with their software.

Might be worth making sure everything is in good working order. Replace plugs, fuel filter maybe, and run some injector cleaner through the system. RedeX works for me, but Seafoam gets good ratings on this board.