Hello to all those who appriciate craftyness when it comes to the man gettin' into your billfold. Welcome.

 

My delimma... when i start to accelerate, i hear a *CLUNK* when i start to move forward.... thinking this is something in the rear end (probably a clutch in the LSD) or something along these lines, i go under my trusty sedan to find i can push on my rear end (go ahead, laugh) and it will freely move up and down with little effort. The rubber bushing within the metal bracket (circled below in World Rally blue ) was completly ...gone. eaten away by the misty mountains of northen california... or something.

 

 

SO! my question was *with a little modification* could the bushing *circled in world rally yellow* fit into the metal bracket if there was no rubber bushing there? does anyone know the sizes? or is this a totally bogus idea..

 

My second question is What is this second rod for on the shifting linkage *below*

 

and are the bushings that are connected to this rod important for the sloppyness i've been seeing? below is the full blown up diagram for the shifting linkage. I have circled what i am planning on purchasing in blue (if i can find them). PLEASE someone tell me what i have from this picture below (IE, both rods, i see the note saying FT 4WD only or something, whats this mean? do i need to get all the bushings? ), what i dont have, and what i need to get it shifting nice, clean and crisp.

 

 

 

Does anyone know where i can purchase these bushings?!?! It'd be nice to be shifting nice and clean!!!!

thanks!!!!!

the subaru dealer near me wanted less then 20 bucks for the bushings and 40 somthing for the shifter

edit: thats all the bushings not each

The bushing for the diff has a much bigger center hole. I may ahve an extra part #13 in the diagram.

 

The rod and bushings will make the shifter sloppy if the bushings are worn. You could also have problems inside, but you might as well fix the bushings if they are loose. I also have a set of them, from a parts car - I do not know how good they are, but I don't htink they are shot either..

 

Dave

About the shifter bushing. Don't forget to replace #26. When I did mine a month ago that was the only ones that were really messed up.

this is all that was left.

 

 

The rest of the bushings were in fair shape.

 

I replaced #15 too but I don't think it was nessessary in my case.

You should be able to get under the car and shake stuff around. I could move my linkage under the car and tell the #26 was the really loose one.

 

I purchased all the bushings at my local subaru dealership.

 

Good luck

good luck on #25 and #26. i had to install new ones on my lifted wagon. no way to get them out with out pulling the trans apart, (that i could tell). ended up using the trusty ol' hack saw on an old trans that was no good. got the bushings out that way

good luck on #25 and #26. i had to install new ones on my lifted wagon. no way to get them out with out pulling the trans apart, (that i could tell). ended up using the trusty ol' hack saw on an old trans that was no good. got the bushings out that way

 

ew.. dont tell me that. lol

If your bushings are worn, you will have slpooy shifting. ACE hardware has a selection of metric bronze ones that work way better than the nylon crap ones that the car came with. Your shifting will be much tighter, but it may transmit more vibration to your hand. I always replace bushings with bronze. They just need a little grease and they are good to go and will outlast the plastic crap. I'm even gunna try making some half-shell bronze bushings for my anti sway bars, that should work better than rubber or urethane.

courtesy of the USRM:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/transmission/shift-linkage/shift-linkage-slop-fix.html

found some stuff at the pick a part. looks like someone already changed out the linkages i found with poly one's!!!! NEAT!!!!

 

thanks again for everyones help!!

Luigi

#25 and #26 can be replaced without removing/opening the transmission. I did it, but had to drop the:

A. driveline (center bearing assembly)

B. exhaust after the 1st cat

C. the really wimpy crossmember behind the transmission.

 

Then you just pound out pin #28. Then you can take the part (pictured) and rebushing it.

 

Note on picture, you can see the hole where the pin goes bearly. (lower right left)

 

Good luck

So I actually cut the bolt off with a hacksaw while everything was still attached (the bracket, but not the shifter/linkage) and got a new bolt and bushings... then! i drilled out the bracket so the hole was the same size on both sides, then drilled a hole in the firewall by the gas pedal and fed the bolt in through there... shifting is SUPER clean, and now if i need to replace the bushings, the bolt comes out in less then 5 minutes. theres a plastic baffle, then the carpet that completly conceils the hole i made.. that and some trusty duct tape about 1 square inch

 

its the hole subaru forgot!!!