G'day, am putting new discs on my EA82 L wagon in a couple of days time, looks straight foreward, any hints before I start, am going by what manual says but have been caught before.. Thanks Lang

Should be a piece of cake. I've done it once before and it was really straightforward.

the caliper is held on by a 14mm bolt. the bottom one comes out, the top one is just a slide pin

 

make sure the parking brake is off. you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers

 

the rotpr and hub will come off together. the hib is bolted to the rotor by 4 14mm bolts

 

the hub/rotor assembly is held onto the axle by a 36mm nut and coter pin. pay attention to the washers as they fit on a certain direction to hold torque, the flat washer is axtually convex, the convex side towards the nut

 

torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn

 

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm

MilesFox is right, but you'll also need to remove the carrier for the pads- two 17mm bolts, if I remember right. I would also check the conical centering washer to make sure it doesn't have a ridge around the edge- I've seen a number of them that do, and it will keep you from getting proper torque. If it does, you can remove it with a file.

 

Also, to make life easier, break loose the castle nut and the four bolts that join the hub to the rotor before you start taking it apart- that way you can use the parking brake to hold it.

you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers

 

 

Double Ditto, spin the piston's, if you just push them in you will ruin the seals

Good advise as usual from the ones who know, many thanks, will attend to on Saturday.....

Checked in this manual I have and have no torque figure for the disc bolts, any ideas,(untill the elbow cracks!)and do you put a drop of lock-tite on them there bolts?..

I'm not sure what the torque figure would be. I just get 'em goodntight with a 3/8 drive rachet. I haven't used loctite, but I don't suppose it would hurt anything.

The torque is listed in the front of the chapter in the Haynes manual. I don't think it was very much (14 ft.lbs? I know that is not much help). However, I would just make sure that they are all torqued to the same value so that they don't warp.

 

torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn

 

Does anything happen if they're too tight? I usually stand on the end of a 1/2" drive ratchet or the 15" ajustable wrench till they stop turning, which has got be closer to 200 ft lbs.

 

Zeke

tip: Don't undo your brake lines from the calipers. I use a big block of wood and set the calipers on them under the vehicle still attached to the lines. Then you don't have to bleed your brakes when you are done

Thanks again, took about two hours all up, one thing, if the hub is a little tight, I found to put the wheel back on with a couple of nuts and give it a good shakeing, that fixed that, with the car secure on stands ,of course..:)The disc bolts were some tight, some not, I put them all back on at 45 ft, lbs., and all's well. Lang