Lang Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 G'day, am putting new discs on my EA82 L wagon in a couple of days time, looks straight foreward, any hints before I start, am going by what manual says but have been caught before.. Thanks Lang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Should be a piece of cake. I've done it once before and it was really straightforward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 the caliper is held on by a 14mm bolt. the bottom one comes out, the top one is just a slide pin make sure the parking brake is off. you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers the rotpr and hub will come off together. the hib is bolted to the rotor by 4 14mm bolts the hub/rotor assembly is held onto the axle by a 36mm nut and coter pin. pay attention to the washers as they fit on a certain direction to hold torque, the flat washer is axtually convex, the convex side towards the nut torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 MilesFox is right, but you'll also need to remove the carrier for the pads- two 17mm bolts, if I remember right. I would also check the conical centering washer to make sure it doesn't have a ridge around the edge- I've seen a number of them that do, and it will keep you from getting proper torque. If it does, you can remove it with a file. Also, to make life easier, break loose the castle nut and the four bolts that join the hub to the rotor before you start taking it apart- that way you can use the parking brake to hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers Double Ditto, spin the piston's, if you just push them in you will ruin the seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lang Posted November 2, 2005 Author Share Posted November 2, 2005 Good advise as usual from the ones who know, many thanks, will attend to on Saturday..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lang Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Checked in this manual I have and have no torque figure for the disc bolts, any ideas,(untill the elbow cracks!)and do you put a drop of lock-tite on them there bolts?.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I'm not sure what the torque figure would be. I just get 'em goodntight with a 3/8 drive rachet. I haven't used loctite, but I don't suppose it would hurt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Interceptor2k Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 The torque is listed in the front of the chapter in the Haynes manual. I don't think it was very much (14 ft.lbs? I know that is not much help). However, I would just make sure that they are all torqued to the same value so that they don't warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn Does anything happen if they're too tight? I usually stand on the end of a 1/2" drive ratchet or the 15" ajustable wrench till they stop turning, which has got be closer to 200 ft lbs. Zeke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 tip: Don't undo your brake lines from the calipers. I use a big block of wood and set the calipers on them under the vehicle still attached to the lines. Then you don't have to bleed your brakes when you are done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lang Posted November 8, 2005 Author Share Posted November 8, 2005 Thanks again, took about two hours all up, one thing, if the hub is a little tight, I found to put the wheel back on with a couple of nuts and give it a good shakeing, that fixed that, with the car secure on stands ,of course..:)The disc bolts were some tight, some not, I put them all back on at 45 ft, lbs., and all's well. Lang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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