November 5, 200520 yr I can't imagine it is terribly difficult. I am going to deconstruct my old one after I clean the IACV this morning, but am hoping that someone can leave a link or something that directs me on what parts I need, and where I can get them... The CHEAPEST... However, if there are better parts that warrant the extra $$$, I am not opposed to that either.
November 5, 200520 yr this is one of those things where its cheaper to buy a rebuilt one. You need new bearings, a bearing press, a way of chacking the windings for maegaohms resistance and fro opens and shorts. You wil need a voltage regulator, diode trios and brushes. you dont want to do a rebuild 1/2 way then have to do it all again because you thought you didnt need bearings.... Most of this is not available at your standard nappa store. And actually if you figure in the labor to rebuild it plus parts, its cheaper to get a rebuilt. nipper
November 5, 200520 yr Author this is one of those things where its cheaper to buy a rebuilt one. You need new bearings, a bearing press, a way of chacking the windings for maegaohms resistance and fro opens and shorts. You wil need a voltage regulator, diode trios and brushes. you dont want to do a rebuild 1/2 way then have to do it all again because you thought you didnt need bearings.... Most of this is not available at your standard nappa store. And actually if you figure in the labor to rebuild it plus parts, its cheaper to get a rebuilt. nipper I do custom electronics for a living. So diodes, caps, VR's are of little issue. BUT, the bearing press... That is (I think) the prob with it. I spin the wheel, and it just goes, and goes, and goes. I got a bad hum before I replaced w/ a used one. If all I have to do is ts the circuits and replace bad parts, this wouldn't be a big issue I don't think, but since it sounds like the bearing is trouble...
November 5, 200520 yr I do custom electronics for a living. So diodes, caps, VR's are of little issue. BUT, the bearing press... That is (I think) the prob with it. I spin the wheel, and it just goes, and goes, and goes. I got a bad hum before I replaced w/ a used one. If all I have to do is ts the circuits and replace bad parts, this wouldn't be a big issue I don't think, but since it sounds like the bearing is trouble... I'm not understanding what you are saying? By it goes, and goes, and goes, it DOES continue to spin? Bad bearings usually stop quick, and make noise. An alternator is a pretty simple unit, and has many applications out fo a auto enviroment. Now, there are 2 things that can go bad in an alt.(electrical). Open in the field circuit, and bad Diode trio. If the alt is not charging, or overcharging, it's usually the Diode trio. An open in the Field is easy to find. You need to put 12V across the case, and the field wire(check wiring diagram for the right one) If the Alt gets hard to spin by hand, the field circuit is good. The Diode trio is usually easy to replace, but can get spendy. Now, if you really want to get tricky, I can show you how to make an alternator into a TIG welder, Generator, Portable welder,or battery charger/starter. EDIT: My vote is to go with the New/rebuild unit.
November 5, 200520 yr I have rebuilt a alternator and you can certainly do it also but after replacing the diodes and cleaning things up I had to wonder if it was worth the time. The diodes cost me around 63 dollars alone. The next time I had to replace one I puchased a Bosch rebuilt for around 135 dollars. It came with a lifetime warranty also.
November 7, 200520 yr Now, if you really want to get tricky, I can show you how to make an alternator into a TIG welder, Generator, Portable welder,or battery charger/starter. I want to get tricky. How does one turn an alternator into a generator, and can it produce reasonably high quality 110VAC at 60Hz?
November 7, 200520 yr I've looked into rebuilding soob alternators before, and it's simply not cost effective. The pieces to do it cost too much, and a reman or good used one is too cheap.
November 7, 200520 yr I want to get tricky. How does one turn an alternator into a generator, and can it produce reasonably high quality 110VAC at 60Hz? Well, it can produce high quality 110VDC at 0 hertz.. It will work for Brushed tools(drills grinders and the like) as well as lights. I have a Weldernator in my jeep.. SI Large frame alternator with the diode trio removed, and the brush holder grounded to the case. I can get about 130 Amps at 110-140VDC@2500RPM. Now, you CAN get AC out of an alternator(hence the name) but it's running around 200Hz. You run the Alt wild(no regulation) and RPM directly relates to Voltage output. Google Weldernator, or Alternator Tig. that will give you a good starting point for Alternator modifications. A modified Alt also works good for a portable Jump box, or for a portable trail welder. All you need is a 5HP side shaft motor, a plate of metal to mount both to, a 12V motorcycle battery for field, and some cords.
November 12, 200520 yr So lets see. 110 volts x 130 amps= 14,300 watts. That's a pretty hefty alternator.
November 12, 200520 yr So lets see. 110 volts x 130 amps= 14,300 watts. That's a pretty hefty alternator. http://hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=9695 http://www.novajeepers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7954&highlight=weldernator http://whiteknight.ca/FORUMS/index.php?showtopic=661&st=15 http://mywebpages.comcast.net/t.molnar/Obwelder4.htm MANY links on that page. How about a Plasma cutter running a Ford Large frame alternator? 200 OVDC@35Amps? http://forums.diywelder.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=791 http://media.diywelder.com/alttest500k.wmv Alternator Tig? http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml Want me to show you how to make an Air compressor out of a 12V battery, Electric motor, Propane tank, and Air Conditioning compressor? Didn't want this to come across as a flame post, just sharing information.
November 12, 200520 yr i'm not familiar with alternator bearings, though i have one in the rear seat of one of my cars since i disassembled one for kicks...thinking about rebuilding as well. anyhow, bearings can often times be repacked. on a bearing of this type you'd need a very fine finishing nail or some other pointed metal object that is really strong. where the inner bearing face starts, delicately pry the bearing face/shield up. get it up enough to insert one of those grease gun needle attachments in there and pump it full of new grease. air pockets will start popping and sometimes old nasty grease comes out. on the XT6 alternator that i tore apart the bearing was accessible enough to do this on without pressing it off, so you'd avoid needing a press. i've done this plenty of times...even today to some bearings, but none ever that small so i can't promise it would work on something that small. i know a guy around here that is good at working on his subaru (XT6) and he pulled apart his alternator and said there's a solder joint in there that gets bad. so he resoldered that connection and it fixed his problem. i dont know enough about alt's to recall what connection it was though. i'd just buy one as well. subaru alternators are so easy to replace that another option is to just keep a used one in trunk, an XT6 alternator takes literally like 8 minutes to replace. i did buy a new one though, it's a good way to go. but...i kept it in the trunk until my old one went out. probably not a great idea for the battery though but i wanted a new one anyway so i replaced it after the alternator.
November 12, 200520 yr There are some interesting links there. What I was just trying to say is you won't be able to get the amount of power out of the alternator you claim. If you got 2.5kw that would be good.
November 12, 200520 yr oem rebuild at www.1stsubaruparts.com for my legacy was 67 plus 8 bucks shipping. If the diodes are 63 i dont think its worth rebuilding yourself
November 12, 200520 yr There are some interesting links there. What I was just trying to say is you won't be able to get the amount of power out of the alternator you claim. If you got 2.5kw that would be good. Well, it takes about 100 amps to burn 1/8" 6011 on 1/4" steel. Mine does that no problem. You have to understand you are running the Alt WILD. NO regulation. Unregulated, an alternator CAN produce those loads. I've stalled out 2 5HP motors in series with my 130 amp SI Alt. running full field. Look at the Video above. He's running a CI 150 Amp Alt modified. Off hand I see over a 5KW load in the dryers, and lights. Plus, when I strike an arc, OCV drops to around 60V@100A+/- 25V. Anything over 30V will strike an arc. EDIT: You have to understand, all an alternator consists of is a 3phase AC generator, and diodes that rectifiy the 3pAC into DC.
November 12, 200520 yr I do custom electronics for a living. So diodes, caps, VR's are of little issue. BUT, the bearing press... That is (I think) the prob with it. I spin the wheel, and it just goes, and goes, and goes. I got a bad hum before I replaced w/ a used one. If all I have to do is ts the circuits and replace bad parts, this wouldn't be a big issue I don't think, but since it sounds like the bearing is trouble...Matt,Why not just leave the used one in unless it too is giving you grief. I am very thankful not one of the Subarus I have owned has ever required an alternator. 10 and 12 year old Legacys with 200,000+ miles and the alternator never gave a bit of grief (and I am one of those freaks who always leaves the lights on). Just my 2 cents, Greg
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