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Overheating - Radiator cap Cold


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I figure I have a plugged radiator, but not sure. I replaced my heater core a few weeks ago and it still leaks so I bypassed it again later, then I refilled my engine with DexCool (What 99% of the USMB would not do) on accident and now my heat gauge is spiking after warming up for awhile and when I stop and open her up, all the hoses are hott, and the radiator cap is cold.

I replaces the thermostat and have given 3 medium length flushes, but I think I'm only flushing the radiator...

 

So I figure I need to do a complete flush of the entire cooling system, whats the technique for a super complete flush?

 

Do I need the heater core hooked up to flush the complete line?

 

Should I get some kind of radiator cleaning agent to help dislodge the particles if I do the flush?

 

Is it possible that I created DeathCool "sludge" when it mixed with my green fluid?

 

Thanks!

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Are you absolutely positive the stat is in the right way?

 

I don't know anything about the chemical reaction of the two different antifreeze solutions, bit I seriously doubt that mixing them will cause any kind of gelling.

 

With the heater core disconnected, you could flush it with a garden hose. But why bother if it leaks and you need a new one.

 

You can run without the thermostat to see if the system is flowing and cooling the engine. It shouldn't heat up as much as usual, in theory.

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Right, but if the radiator cap is ice cold after 15 minutes of use, but the hose leading to it is hot, it would lead me to believe that the radiator is not doing its job to cool down the hot water because it is plugged or theres not enough pressure to push it through.

 

I just want to provide a major flush, but don't where the entrance and exit points should be for the water to hit the block, every hose and the radiator before exiting.

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Most likely you have an air lock.

 

Drain the system and then jack the front as high as you can.

Fill the system through the top radiator hose slowly!

When its full, put it back on and continue to fill with the bleeder plug removed!

Start the car and let it warm up, burp the collant by pinching the top hose often.

 

Do the warm up cool down cycle several times. The system should be air free!

 

Take it off jacks

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here's an excerpt from the link;http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/vmax/coolantnotes.htm

 

>>>Can DEXCOOL organic acid antifreeze be mixed with ethylene glycol antifreeze?

DexCool is an ethylene glycol based antifreeze! The concern with mixing comes from the fact that there are very different chemical inhibitor packages in use. Most leading technologies will work very well when used as intended, typically at 50% in good quality water. If the coolants become mixed with DexCoolL, however, one study showed a possible aluminum corrosion problem in certain situations. The other question is a concern for dilution of the protection packages. At what mix is the there too little of either inhibitor to protect the engine? As a precaution, both GM and Caterpillar instruct that contaminated systems must be maintained as if they contained only conventional coolant.<<<

 

this seems to be a motorcycle cooling system discussion. The 'clumping'/gel problem MAY be a myth or MAY be due to an reaction with air - I dunno.

 

But the 2 coolants DO have somewhat incompatible additive packages. From some brief reading I can't see any reason to use Dexcool or other propylene glycol coolants in our soobs. If Subaru were to switch at some time in the future - then of course I'd try to stay with the factory style coolant. But retro-filling with PG coolant is either unhelpful or potentially damaging.

 

Doa good flush and refill and start diagnosing again. It may just be an airlock situation or bad rad cap.

 

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