nvrsadie Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Hi all, I haven't posted anything for a long time.... Since last post have acquired a 98' forester with the 2.5L DOHC engine, 146,000 miles. Bought it on e-bay. Car looks great, nice interior, excellent body condition. Drove it back from Ohio to our place near Altoona PA. Ran good. At the time of purchase I knew I was looking at a clutch replacement and since the timing belt condition was unknown I planned on replacing that too. For what I paid for it, even with this work needing done, and since I would be doing the work myself, it was still a bargain. So much for the knowns. From reading posts on this message board, I know that head gasket problems are notorious on these engines, and as I was coming back from Altoona one day, the temperature gauge pegged on hot and I pulled off the road right away. I was only a couple of miles from home, so I figured I would leave the key on (engine off) and let the radiator fans and the heater blower run to cool things down enough to drive home the rest of the way. I popped the hood and noticed that the top radiator hose was sucked completely shut (the hose was cool, by the way). I squeezed it back into shape, and a few seconds later all of the antifreeze from the overflow tank (which had been completely full), was sucked back into the radiator. I waited a few minutes, and drove home. As I reached home, the temperature gauge pegged hot again. I popped the hood, and gingerly took the radiator cap off with a rag, and the fluid that pushed out was COLD. Normally I would have thought stuck thermostat, but with the reputation these motors have for head gasket problems, it seems that is more likely to be the culprit. Is it worth the time to try a new thermostat, and if so can I use a Stant? Some say OEM is the only way to go. I am definitely going to pull the motor to replace the clutch and timing belt. The car seems to have plenty of power, it is a manual transmission. I don't have a problem with replacing the head gaskets, but is it necessary to dissasemble the head completely to have it milled flat to insure good gasket seal? Can the head be milled without disassembling it (assuming it checks out as crack-free)? If the valves are good it seems like a waste of time to tear everything down and re-shim valve clearances and all that stuff... Give me some ideas out there. Thanks a bunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 if it makes you feel any better the new OEM subaru head gasket is updated and alleviates the issues of the old design. i would think a machine shop or you can check for flatness of the cylider side of the head without removing the valves, but i'm not sure since i don't know what they use to measure it. i've read on here about people doing it before, i would let a shop check mine out (and did last week). not a bad idea to replace the thermostat first but on these motors you just never know. it would be so much easier to do the job with the motor out anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Dude, if you have the motor out anyway, for the other repairs, just go ahead and put new head gaskets in there. Then it is done and over with. Would you rather drive around with this hanging over your head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrsadie Posted January 3, 2006 Author Share Posted January 3, 2006 if it makes you feel any better the new OEM subaru head gasket is updated and alleviates the issues of the old design. i would think a machine shop or you can check for flatness of the cylider side of the head without removing the valves, but i'm not sure since i don't know what they use to measure it. i've read on here about people doing it before, i would let a shop check mine out (and did last week). not a bad idea to replace the thermostat first but on these motors you just never know. it would be so much easier to do the job with the motor out anyway. Thanks for the advice, I will try the thermostat first but am not too hopeful... I will replace the headgaskets with the upgraded version when I do the rest of the work. I will check the cylinder head surface for flatness with a straight-edge and feeler guage before reassembling anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrsadie Posted January 3, 2006 Author Share Posted January 3, 2006 Dude, if you have the motor out anyway, for the other repairs, just go ahead and put new head gaskets in there. Then it is done and over with. Would you rather drive around with this hanging over your head? Definitely a golden opportunity to replace the headgaskets. I will replace them when I do the other work. The main question is how much work to do to the cylinder heads themselves. I can check them for flatness with a good straightedge and feeler guage. By the way, I have a 1983 GL Wagon with 202,000 miles on it that my wife bought brand new.The engine is good but it has chronic right front wheel bearing problems, and the body is shot again since I completely re-did it in 95'. When the Pennsylvania state inspection runs out in November of 2006 it will be retired with full military honors (if it is still running!). I just put a brand new factory gas tank in it last summer (very hard to find!) If you know of anyone who is looking for one, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 While you have the heads off just check the valve clearance with a feeler guage. This is an old engine so I would not get too picky, but if you had one that was tight I would adjust it to prevent valves from burning. This is also time for all new seals, oil pump screw retighten,and if you have the plastic oil leaking device on the rear of the engine add a metal one.After this the car should run for several years with no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrsadie Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 While you have the heads off just check the valve clearance with a feeler guage. This is an old engine so I would not get too picky, but if you had one that was tight I would adjust it to prevent valves from burning. This is also time for all new seals, oil pump screw retighten,and if you have the plastic oil leaking device on the rear of the engine add a metal one.After this the car should run for several years with no problem. Thanks so much for the input. It makes me feel a lot better to know that if I put all the effort into fixing this thing up that I will get several years of good service out of it. I really like the way the car handles and drives, and I plan to keep it until the wheels fall off. Thanks again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subeman90 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Welcome to the Board! Congrats. on the forester.....and don't trash the other car before offering up parts for us board members especially the fuel tank. What color is the 83 inside and out? By the way, I know where patton is. I am from out your way...I grew up down in Everett. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Thanks so much for the input. It makes me feel a lot better to know that if I put all the effort into fixing this thing up that I will get several years of good service out of it. I really like the way the car handles and drives, and I plan to keep it until the wheels fall off. Thanks again... The wheels will fall off if you don't torque the lug nuts to spec... oops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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