what is the usual culprit? I've heard that it cracks between the valves? is this a repairable area?

some people use a balpiene (sp?) hammer to tap the cracks shut - does it work? I do not know

 

Subaru said in a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that unless they get so deep that they intrude into the intake/exhaust port or go so deep as to hit a coolant passage, that they are OK, and should just be lived with - this was more for EA82 heads, than for EA81, but there are similarities in the combustion chamber design, so I guess it could also apply.

 

Good Luck

Use stitch pins to repair them.

 

Lock N Stitch 1800 736 8261

209-632-2345

These are the part numbers and sizes used for XT6 heads (which are the same as EA82 and probably close enough to EA81 heads):

L4A Aluminum Stitch Pins

1/4" Threads.

 

they sell a kit that comes with a special tap and stitch pins. i'm sure there are other methods, this is the one the local aluminum head specialist uses that does my heads. maybe you could call some local machine shops/head specialists and see if they carry them, mine does. might not be very common though.

Several years ago I got a price for welding them. $150ea.

If there isnt significant differences on either side of the crack and if the crack doesnt go up into the exhaust port (location of water jacket) then the head should be fine. Peening the crack if its real high is a option also, dont think it can hurt.

well the guy said its spewing antifreeze and he has had the heads repaired once already, or head gaskets not sure so do ya think that it will even be repairable?

well the guy said its spewing antifreeze and he has had the heads repaired once already, or head gaskets not sure so do ya think that it will even be repairable?

 

Have you seen where its spewing antifreeze from? "spewing" would meen a ton of antifreeze to me. best thing to do is to have a look see......and I wouldn't think it would be a cracked head if its external leaking....but Im new to subarus. heh

 

Thanks

Erik

yea I haven't even picked up the car yet. gonna sign for it tonight hopefully, I was just wanting to get a game plan on it to minimize down time. I really want to drive this car as soon as possible. Debating knocking the turbo brat in the head for it and turning that into the "project" vehicle

Just look closely at it...could be a case of Im tired of this stupid car, and he just wants to unload it....those are the best cars...easy fixes...heh

 

Thanks

Erik

Just look closely at it...could be a case of Im tired of this stupid car, and he just wants to unload it....those are the best cars...easy fixes...heh

 

Thanks

Erik

I can't say I've really had any of those.....:-\

best to wait until you can see it yourself. the leak could be anywhere based on info so far. head gaskets? intake manifold gasket? etc.

 

heads need to be removed and checked. no way to tell without looking at them, but i've had plenty of heads repaired. they charge me $50 to repair a crack between valve seats. they do a great job using stitch pins (mentioned above) and welding/grinding the top. they gaurantee it'll fail somewhere else first.

 

if you're concerned about down time, buy a set of known good or fixable used heads to have ready to go. that's what i do (but i have extra motors lying around), get a set of heads machined, valve job and pressure tested and ready to go on the car when i do the job. makes for an easy job and you're done in one day.

If the heads are cracked, the cracks will be visible to the naked eye. If they are cracked, the best way to repair a casting is NOT TO. The only way to stop a crack is to drill a hole past the crack and weld out to it. This is virtually impossible on a suby head because of the profiles.

Try if you want to, but don't cry when it blows out and leaves you, or yours, stranded way out nowhere. I guess if you really didn't like your wife or something ...