hankosolder2 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Hi, I'm in the midst of pulling the engine on my '98 Legacy Ouback. The Haynes manual says to remove the intake manifold, etc. and I can't see any good reason to...with all the connectors & hoses disconnected it seems like the engine will come out just fine as a complete assembly with the manifold, TB etc. Do the good folks at Haynes know something I don't? Thanks, Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 The Haynes manual is stupid. You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just disconnect everything from the engine and remove it as a whole unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 The Haynes manual is stupid. You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just disconnect everything from the engine and remove it as a whole unit. Thanks! I needed confirmation from Someone Who Knows. As a side note...this is my first Subaru engine out job and I have to say what a pleasure it is working on a Suby! I've done engine out jobs on Hondas, BMWs, MGs, a Ford (uh, never mind that last one) and the Subaru is NICE NICE NICE to work on. Thanks again, nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Lets here that again after you get the engine seperated from the tranny. They can be sticky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eventoday Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 if you pull the intake off you can keep most of the hoses and wires on making easy to put back together. i lifted the hood straight up wired the intake with most hoses connected right to the hood. just need to replace gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2X2KOB Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Is the "sticky" engine to trans problem a factor on the manuals, automatics, or both? I'm just mentally preparing myself for the day I get to change my head gaskets, which hasn't happened yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I've only seen it on a manual I helped a neighbor with. It seemed to be corrosion on the pins. If some of the folks who have done several comment here we will both know if the automatics can stick too. I was looking for a hidden bolt, but it was just stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 sometimes it's beneficial to unbolt the intake from the block, hold the intake up enough to pull block and drop another in and yo'ure done. two new intake manifolds later and you didn't have to disconnect the throttle cable, disconnect hoses, wires, grounds, sensors, etc. probably works out to about the same either way, i've done it both ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnVT Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 The Haynes manual is stupid. You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just disconnect everything from the engine and remove it as a whole unit. Haynes says to remove the intake manifold to change the knock sensor!! That is REALLY overkill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlelegacy Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I'm slowly learning that Haynes goes overboard too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Haynes says to remove the intake manifold to change the knock sensor!! That is REALLY overkill... that's hysterical if it's true. those manuals are usually overboard, but so are recommendations i see here on the board (and have given!!!!), but doesn't make it all bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Goughnour Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I have a question. If you don't remove the intake, how do you get access to the Torque converter to drive plate nuts. The inspection cover is conceled by the intake. Is it that easy to do it from below? If you pull the torque converter with the engine, how hard is it to line everything back up when you toss the engine in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Goughnour Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 One other thing. Removing the intake was simple. I should know, I forgot to hook up a cooling hose that sits just under it. So after I put the intake on and filled it with water, it leaked like a 1 year old watching a sprinkler. Did it all over again. Didn't take more than 30 min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 i dont pull the intake off because its nice to tie a rop around it and hoist motor out with intake. ya you have to re-connect al the cables and wiring, but its not that big of a deal. and ya, haynes is stupid, i learn more form this board than any haynes manual ive ever seen. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I removed the 2.5 from my 97 legacy outback just last night to repair the dreaded head gaskets. Came out fairly easy with the intake manifold intact on the engine. Removed intake once I had it on the floor. Hardest part of that---by far---was trying to figure out the #^%#%$^ connector to the water temp sender on the cross pipe. Here's a tip---use a screwdriver and push perpindicular to the connector, and it will rock and unlatch. In fact I think the hardest thing about working on my Subaru is trying to figure out how to disconnect the wiring at the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I have a question. If you don't remove the intake, how do you get access to the Torque converter to drive plate nuts. The inspection cover is conceled by the intake. Is it that easy to do it from below? If you pull the torque converter with the engine, how hard is it to line everything back up when you toss the engine in. You can get at the bolts with the intake on. A ratcheting wrench works wonders for those bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted January 29, 2006 Author Share Posted January 29, 2006 Lets here that again after you get the engine seperated from the tranny. They can be sticky. Cookie, I pulled the engine today and your words were ringing in my ears...the engine was stuck to the trans- those darn pins were a real headache. Additonally, there are NO casting ears or anything you can pry against to help separate the engine from the trans. I ended up spraying with penetrating oil, put the clutch slave cyl back on and depressed the clutch pedal (hey, a little well centered force against the flywheel can't hurt) rocked, prodded, tapped and generally finagled for hours untill they split apart. It came apart kinda suddenly... I hope I didn't bend the input shaft to the trans or anything... the two lower studs on the block came out with the nuts, so there wasn't that extra guidance to take the strain. I think it's going to be ok. Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Cookie, I pulled the engine today and your words were ringing in my ears...the engine was stuck to the trans- those darn pins were a real headache. Additonally, there are NO casting ears or anything you can pry against to help separate the engine from the trans. I ended up spraying with penetrating oil, put the clutch slave cyl back on and depressed the clutch pedal (hey, a little well centered force against the flywheel can't hurt) rocked, prodded, tapped and generally finagled for hours untill they split apart. It came apart kinda suddenly... I hope I didn't bend the input shaft to the trans or anything... the two lower studs on the block came out with the nuts, so there wasn't that extra guidance to take the strain. I think it's going to be ok. Nathan It will be fine. Next time just gently use a screwdriver and work up to a prybar inbetween the bellhousings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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