eggroller Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Background: 1988 Subaru GL Wagon. EA82 w/5 spd D/R and SPFI. No A/C. 199,370 miles. (~1K of those miles are mine) Just finished some work on the car: OEM Subaru Timing Belts w/new tensioners and idler gear Oil pump with new mickey mouse seal Water pump w/new thermostat (180*) All new water hoses - everyone of them except that one behind the throttle body. Got the timing belts correct. Driver's side 1st. Pointing up. Then 360* turn and the mark was 180* from where it started. Pointing down. The Passenger side pointed up. Installed the passenger belt. Turn the engine over a few times. Verify one mark is up and one down. Now that the car is back together I idle it and verify no leaks. Idles smooth albeit a bit fast (always has been at around 1100 rpms when hot). Good oil pressure. Coolant level is good. Everything looks good and I take it for a test drive. That is where the valves sound like garbage when I try to rev it under load. Is is possible the timing is advanced? Even if the timing belt is spot on (not a tooth off)? I do need to verify the distributor is pointing at #1 when the engine is at TDC. However, it is time for bed and I need to get up for work in a bit. Suggestions? Got a road trip to Whistler this weekend and a road trip to Idaho next weekend. I want to take the Subaru! <edit>Clarified the timing belt installation procedure used. FIXED: Forgot the seal on the oil pump (the one around the pump. Not mickey mouse seal) Timing was WAY off. Pulled the distributor and timed it correctly. Stupid me looked over at where the pile of parts was and notices a round seal. Hmm...where does that go? DOH! So, back apart it goes. Yup, forgot that seal. Lifters might have not received enough pressure to pump up. As suggested, I checked the timing. Connected the green wires and looked for the timing marks. None to be found. Not good. Shut it down and pull the distributor cap and it was way off. Pulled the distributor and realigned it. Good to go there. No more noise from the valvetrain. Engine purrs quite nicely. More power now. Thanks to all who gave suggestions!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 It does sound like the ignition timing could be too far advanced. Kicking it back could help the valvetrain rattle and your high Idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 THANKS! I will try to retard the timing when I get home. Anything else I should check for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlelegacy Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 I'm not sure, but are valve gap clearances an issue on these engines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 I'm not sure, but are valve gap clearances an issue on these engines?Hmmm, I didn't mess with the valves at all. The engine did not make this noise under load before the work performed above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 It does sound like the ignition timing could be too far advanced. Kicking it back could help the valvetrain rattle and your high Idle Right. Try it at 18 degrees instead of 20. Mine runs best at 18. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 just to clarify... when you put the driver side belt on, you cranked the engine over 360*, so that cam went 180*, then put the other belt on (I think that's what you did, I just had to read it a couple times to get that) Like calebz said, using a timing light and double check your timing. Don't forget to connect the green test connectors by the fuel filter before doing it. If you didn't remove the disty while working on it, it should be just fine. And there's no way to adjust the valve adjusters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 just to clarify... when you put the driver side belt on, you cranked the engine over 360*, so that cam went 180*, then put the other belt on (I think that's what you did, I just had to read it a couple times to get that) Like calebz said, using a timing light and double check your timing. Don't forget to connect the green test connectors by the fuel filter before doing it. If you didn't remove the disty while working on it, it should be just fine. And there's no way to adjust the valve adjusters. Yes, you are correct. I put the driver's side belt on. Left the tensioners loose. Rotated the engine completely around until the center of the 3 timing marks is on the pointer. Then installed the passenger belt. The driver's side pulley had the dot facing down. Sorry if the post was not clear. I was a bit tired as it was late in the night. I will definately do a double check on the timing as well as the firing order and all things associated with timing! Thank goodness I have the timing light! I didn't know about the green connectors the 1st time I timed the car. It might explain why the timing jumped around everywhere. (I just recently read the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" manual.) I am going to try the 20* timing before messing with the 18* timing. Thank you everyone for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Valve lash is hydraulic. There's no adjustment needed or possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 sure its not a spun big end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 sure its not a spun big end?Can't be sure until one disassembles the engine, right? The engine ran good before my maintenance work. Can't spin a bearing by rotating the engine without oil pressure, right? Furthermore, I would have had idling issues/noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Sounds like the classic "Loose Timing Belt" They will slap around and rattle the valvetrain and distributor and make some weird noises under load. Did you tension it properly before tightening the tensioner down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Loose timing belt on the disy side sounds like it could be right. a spun big end can be quiet at idle but when u give it a quick rev from idle or load the engine it will knock. usually wont effectidle speed, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 17, 2006 Author Share Posted February 17, 2006 FIXED: Forgot the seal on the oil pump (the one around the pump. Not mickey mouse seal) Timing was WAY off. Pulled the distributor and timed it correctly. Stupid me looked over at where the pile of parts was and notices a round seal. Hmm...where does that go? DOH! So, back apart it goes. Yup, forgot that seal. Lifters might have not received enough pressure to pump up. As suggested, I checked the timing. Connected the green wires and looked for the timing marks. None to be found. Not good. Shut it down and pull the distributor cap and it was way off. Pulled the distributor and realigned it. Good to go there. No more noise from the valvetrain. Engine purrs quite nicely. More power now! Thank you everyone!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted February 17, 2006 Author Share Posted February 17, 2006 Oh, I timed it at 18* instead of the spec'ed 20*. Seems to run nicely. Thanks for the suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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