welp i suspect the clutch on my '84 gl wagon needs replacing. drives fine normally but when i start to climb a hill i get some slippage. plus the fact i need to practically push the clutch pedal thru the floor to change gears. now the question i have is, how difficult a job is it to replace the clutch. never done one before but i am pretty handy with tools and can figure things out quickly. any sort of special tools needed or will just your basic tools, like sockets, open ends, beer, a large hammer and fire if one gets really pissed, work?

it actually sounds more like you need to adjust the clutch rather than replace it (at this point at least). Once the clutch engages at the middle of the clutch pedal travel and still slips, then I'd say you're about due for a new clutch.

 

Try some searches on how to adjust the clutch, as I bet there are better descriptions written then I could type out right now

FIRE...YAAAAHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your clutch is likely worn out, and the pedal has to be pushed that far because the cable is loose from the disc being worn out. Tighten the cable will help with the release issue, but if it's slipping then you'll need to pull the engine and replace the clutch.

 

GD

Never having done one before on a Subaru I cant say for sure, but as far as getting it to where you can work on the clutch on the itself I believe goes as follows:

 

Unbolt intake from engine, set with all hoses and wiring still together on spare tire shelf; disconnect pitch rod, unbolt the tranny, break motor mounts loose, pull engine up and forward and then out of the car(dont know if you need to remove radiator or not). As far as I know its something that can be done in a few hours and is much easier pulling the engine rather than dropping the transmission. It's nice to have a guy help you lift the engine out of the car if you dont have a cherry picker, it can be done alone easy if you have to though.

Actually - no need to pull the intake or any of that - easier to pull the engine with all accesories attached, and you don't ruin your manifold gaskets.

 

In fact, you can remove the radiator, and just pull the engine forward enough to get the clutch out. Don't have to pull the engine at all. But it may be easier the first time to pull it completely.

 

GD

the clutch replacement part is very easy and straight forward, make sure you get the clutch alignment tool. with that, it's so easy you start thinking you did it wrong cause it takes about 13 seconds to get it right.

 

the hard part is getting to the clutch. pull motor, transmission or try to slide them apart in the car like mentioned.

thanks guys! i think i'll try an adjustment for now, just to see if i can get a few more miles outta her. really can't do much till the weather dries up(no garage). figure i'll try a couple o shops and see how far i have to bend over. a kit costs about $135.00 so i got a good starting point for a price. if it's too much i'll just do it myself, not afraid of that.

can i get away with just replacing the disc? or should i just go ahead and replace the whole thing since i'll have it open anyway. i'm more of a "replace the whole damn thing" kinda guy but unless the other pieces are damaged would i just be throwing money away?

not throwing money away at all. pulling an engine requires time, equipment and space. most people would like to avoid doing that more than once. i just installed an engine in my XT and would hate to have to pull it again for something i could have prevented.

 

i replaced everything, TO bearing, TO bearing clips, pilot bearing, pressure plate and disc. and had the flywheel resurfaced. and the rear main seal. not really that much stuff, clutch kit basically has everything you need clutch related except the TO Bearing clips (different set up if yours is FWD, mine is AWD) and rear main seal. flywheel machined for $30-$60 depending on local rates.

 

if you don't want to replace everything you can check the TO bearing and pilot bearing for play/noise when you remove them. they are usually not too nice on the ones i've pulled. you could just buy new bearings for them too, which would be cheaper if you can install them yourself or the machine shop has good prices.

cool. that was my 1st instinct.

It is alot easier to pull the motor than it is to pull the trans back. I know there was no mention of this but I learned that one the hard way.

yeah, i'll just scoot the motor forward. i don't have access to a picker and i'll be pretty much on my own on this.