Hey All,

 

Just about to change the oil and filter on my Sub for the first time and curious if there are any with advice/suggestions.

 

I've been letting a shop do b/c it's just as cheap as me buying, but I figured it's time to get to know the car better.

 

Does anyone know: Oil Pan Bolt (wrench size), Oil capacity, any other tips.

 

Thanks

Mike

17 or 19 mm? If you have a metric set of sockets, you will be fine.

 

No need to jack up the car, but if this is your first time and have a set of ramps, I would recommend using them just to get a good look where everything is.

 

Get either an OEM or Purolator filter. The location up by the bumper is very easy to access. You should probably get a cap type Oil Filter Wrench which fits right on top of the filter and attaches to a 1/4" socket wrench. This will greatly ease removal if it is on tight.

 

OEM filters come with a crush washer for the plug. Or you can get a few washers from the dealer. I have been re-using mine.

 

Capacity is ~ 4.2 quarts. Fill the oil filter with oil prior to installation.

 

Matt

17 mm IIRC. 4.2 quarts (4.5 L) is correct.

 

I have a 97 OB as well. I just jack up the right front wheel and use a safety stand. More than enough room to get at the drain plug and the oil filter.

 

The suggestion of a cap style oil filter wrench is a good one. I have an old segmented metal clamp style wrench from before my Subaru. It works fine too.

 

You will get some oil dribbling down the filter when you loosen it. It's never been a big deal to me. Others use a bag, or use a center punch to poke a hole in the end of the filter first to drain it. I've heard of people using the end of a plastic pop bottle (eg a 1L coke bottle) as a "cup" to slip over the filter so that when you turn it, the oil will run into it. I might try this on my wife's Honda since the oil dribbles onto part of the 'frame' on her vehicle. (That's where I came across this idea.)

 

Be careful if you choose to go aftermarket oil filters. Some don't engage the threads sufficiently. The OEM filter is good (and made by Purolator). If you buy a generic Purolator, you want the 14460 number. Your choice as to whether it's the Premium or PureONE model.

 

Commuter

4.2 QT = 4 L, not 4.5 L.

 

Commuter, I understand us "Americans" (I am a Naturalized US Citizen) not knowing the US to Metric conversion, but I thought that those who use Metric knew that a Liter is a bit larger than a Quart.:rollin:

 

Be careful not to overfill. The "Full" mark is the little hole in the dip stick. The notch above it is for HOT OIL FULL. Let the engine sit a couple of minutes to allow all the oil to drain into the pan before measuring and adding.

 

Matt

Just did mine for the first time last weekend.

 

It is a 17 mm on the drain plug, I know the 2.2 is 4.2 Quarts, not sure of the 2.5 from that year.

 

I found it very easy to reach under and get to everything without jacking or ramping. And, I only have the clearance of the Legacy, not the extra inch or so of the OB.

 

I did use the OE filter and the only tool I needed was a 17mm socket.

 

While were on topic, who has the link to those ball valves that replace the drain plug? Fujomo? somthing like that????

http://www.fumotovalve.com They work great. I have one on my 97 OBW.

Jeg,

Thanks for the link.

 

Do you have the plain one or the one with the hose barb? Does it stick lower than the bottom of the pan?

 

Dave

-97 Legacy L Sedan

Dave,

I've got a Fumoto valve on my '97 Legacy (2.2;) no barb and it doesn't hang any lower. Sure makes oil changes easier!

Mark

I have the one w/o the barb also. 2.5L engine and it doesn't stick out below the car.

If you install a Fumoto valve be ready with washers of different thicknesses.

The position of if (without the hose nipple) was perfect when I first installed it but then I replaced the oil pan and on the new one - and using the previous washer - the locking lever is hanging down. I will replace the washer with a thinner one at my next oil change and be able to screw it in a little more thus rotating the lever up.

Sigh... ok 97SVX... partial goof.

 

There are American and Imperial Quarts.

 

My manual says 4.5L (so I was right on that)... or 4.7 American quarts or 3.9 Imperial quarts. So... I don't know where the 4.2 quarts came from. I didn't catch it as an error.

 

My mind thinks in terms of Imperial quarts first by default... sorry.

 

Commuter.

Okay, I accept that the first time you replace the oil filter on a car you might need a wrench, since some careless mechanic has probably overtightened it.

 

However, if you tighten it correctly then it will come off by hand the next time you change it.

 

I've started using latex gloves when I work with fluids on the car, very kinky I know, but I don't think that saturating my hands in hot oil every two months is healthy

Dont forget a beverage of your choice

The cheapest oil filter wrench in the world is a half sheet of sandpaper that you wrap around the oil filter, grit side on the filter. I guarantee that you will be able to unwind any filter without needing any special tools.

Plenty of good info on this and it cycles regularly and somehow never gets boring. Like the bit about using the sandpaper to get the filter removed. Never heard about that. I intend to try it. The other thing I will try is the bag or bottle trick. I think the 4.2 quarts is the most recent editions of 2.5 engines. I had a '01 Forester and now have a '03 Baja and both were 4.2 qts in the engine. I am still puzzled as to why they picked something other than an integral number of quarts and made the pan that size. Too eazy, huh? Like window washer tanks: the Forester was over one gallon so you could get a whole bottle of washer fluid in it. The Baja is back in the stone age where you always have about pint left in the jug.

 

Karl