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Relocate the battery


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God knows why anyone would put such a small battery in his car. The previous owner of the car i bought put a 250 cold cranking amp with 11 min RC time (reserve). it is half the size of the batterys you buy in the shop nowadays. Anyways, itss dead now (sigh of relief :banana: :banana: ) i thought i might as well do a relocation in the boot. Plus my cables seem to be more corrosion than copper.

Has anyone done this? im just after ideas? someone told me i just have to run (preferably) a nice fat positive wire to the engine bay and ground the negative somewhere in the boot. Also i need a good idea to stop the battery from making my boot into a horror movie. :clap:

 

p.s. there is no max size for a battery right?

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On my 86 BMW 325es , my battery was in the trunk. I find it like this in alot of BMW cars but some had them under trhe hood also.

 

The battery cabble was routed through on the side of the rear fender well on the passengers side, I think it then went into the floor and was in the inside of the car along the rocker panel area and then went into the engine compart ment.

 

That would be a rather large piece of cable, and my BMW had a large fuseable link. It was about half a foot from the battery in the cable itself. So it was cable then fuseable link then the rest of the cable, if you get what I mean.

 

So if you could find a older BMW and get the cable out, it should work. I think it will be long enough.

 

I think all 325,e,i,es,is cars have trunk mounted batteries, and that the 318 models had them up front under the hood.

 

Hope this helped any.

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Going extreme on your battery to counter-act another is not necessary. I bought a 425 cca battery in 2000 and it is now 6 years later, in its second soob, and 5 winters reaching killer temps below zero. Never had a jump start. Have given plenty of jump starts however...

Bolting it down with the plastic tray underneath and rubber cover over positive terminal once installed seems to be only importance not to forget .

That corrosion should go away with enough amperage, and no short circuits.:)

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i moved may battery to the trunk. i ran a 2 gauge cable from the posi cable under the hood and grounded the black cable to the strut tower. i ran the cable between the fender and strut tower under the hood. if you look, there is a nice litle tunnel next to the strut where i think the hood latch cable runs, i wouldnt know, i dont have a hood release cable.

 

i still need to hide the cable somewhere in the car though, right now the new battery cable is just running down from behind the dash, along the driverside door sills on the floor, and through the back seats to the battery. the battery is in a box in the rear storage thingy at the bottom of the trunk.then from there, i just ran the neg cable to on of the large rear bumper bolts. it works very well.

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My $.02:

 

Run dedicated wires for BOTH positive and negative terminals. Sure, you can ground the negative and get away with it for awhile. But running up to 500 amps through the body means running 500 amps through every weld seam, and electrolytic corrosion will take its toll. FHI runs dedicated cables to the starter for a reason... and those still have issues that require cleaning/maintenance.

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