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i am having some anoying trans issues. the problem is that it seems like the car has torque bind. i have put an ohm meter to the connector and the duty c has the same resistance as my outback that has a new solenoid. i was thinking then that the rear clutch pack might be toast and welded itself together, but if i put the fwd fuse in you can take a turn and the bind goes away. and also occasionally you will get some clunking in a tight low throttle turn, which is prob. tied in with the torque bind.

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OK this is easy.

First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same.

Second flush the transmission. that cures it 90% of the time. Since the fuse still works your clutch is more likely gummed up then anything else.

 

 

nipper

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too bad they don't allow 'signatures' on this site any more, nippers could be " First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same." what, he types this line at least once a week!!

 

OK this is easy.

First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same.

Second flush the transmission. that cures it 90% of the time. Since the fuse still works your clutch is more likely gummed up then anything else.

 

 

nipper

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too bad they don't allow 'signatures' on this site any more, nippers could be " First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same." what, he types this line at least once a week!!

 

Hrmmm thats an idea :brow: . Does seem like its either that or im defending head gaskets.

 

nipper

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the tires are all the same size. i actually just went to look at a wrecked 97 legacy with a manual so it looks like its gonna be swap time!!

 

WOE!

make sure the manual doesnt have the same issue, otherwise your doing a hell of a lot of work for nothing. i would just go out and by a used auto tranny, but you still should flush the tranny as the odds are good to excellant that a 99.00 flush will solve everything.

 

nipper

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i would rather the car be manual. untill i get the chance to do the swap though i am gonna rip it apart tomorrow and take a look at the clutches change the fluid and filter and throw some lucas in it. if the clutches look toasty i am gonna swap the tail with another trans i have sittin around. i figure its gotta be a clutch issue with the process of elim. the electronic end of it is doin its job and ohms out ok, so the only thing possibly left is in the clutch pack. i have dealt with this issue before just not as bad as what this one is doin. is there anything i am overlooking that anyone can think of before i tear it apart?

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yes everything. Why you wont try a fluid change is beyond me. I dont think its that easy to convert the car to a manual, it takes alot of work. i know people do it with svx's and it is not easy.

i really dont understand why your hell bent on tearing the car apart when a fluid change will probabaly solve the problem. Lucas isnt the solution, changing the fluid is.There is more to the awd unit besides the clutches, which in all honesty are probably fine. if they were fused the fuse bypas would not work.

i am the resident expert on torque bind, and an automotive engineering tech, so im not talking out my butt here.

if you are all hell bent on taking the car apart so be it, but what your doing is basically rebuilding an engine due to a light tick from the engine oil never being changed.

This is not that nad an issue on an automatic, but hey what do i know.

have fun and im bowing out of this thread.

 

nipper

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did you not read a freakin word i wrote before you spazzed out?????????? i said temporarily i am goin to change the fluid and put in a filter. and also what is so hard about swapping, worst case scenario the rear ratio wouldn't match and i would have to drop the rear too, and also I WANT THE CAR TO BE MANUAL eventually anyway!!, if you didn't read that either. eventually the car will 22t bottom with dual cam heads or a 20t swap, and i don't quite think i am gonna run a scrap-omatic setup behind that. you act like its the end of the world to do a swap so what, its a day of work and another parts car that only cost $500 bucks!

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and now that thats done, how long can you actually run them in fwd? i have heard many opinions on this, in case for some crazy reason it isn't worked out today. i don't know for sure how soon i am going to be able to do the swap because i have vacation coming up and i want to use this one because it is my best mpg car. today i am gonna swap the filter, new fluid and swap the rear housing for one on a core trans at my buddies shop.

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i've run them in FWD for a long time. it was a long time ago but i'd say 6 months to a year and 10,000 or more miles off the top of my head. done it on automatics and manuals with no problems. for long term i remove the driveshaft, don't know if that matters but i figure that's no load on that output shaft.

 

yours probably has the screen type filter if it's a pre-1998 model. you might want to skip replacing that, i wouldn't do it. those things don't require replacing and they are just catch screens like in your oil sump pick up tube and fuel pump sock, they are never replaced. ive replaced them but they're never even remotely dirty and are a pain..particularly when the gasket leaks afterwards which is usually the case!

 

you can have my impreza parts car with manual trans for $200!

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look, if you haven't driven the core trans you might just be getting the same problem. change the fluid, if that helps, you're done til the swap.

 

if not then you can change the clutch pack, that may help but depends on trhe donor trans. if i were going to the labor to change the clutch pack i would install a new / working duty c solenoid. you don't want to have to pull it again.

 

one guy ran in front wheel drive for 2 years after the clutch went bad and he had bought the duty c. never got around to doing the labor. once the duty c failed, he had to replace the clutch and the solenoid.

 

 

 

and now that thats done, how long can you actually run them in fwd? i have heard many opinions on this, in case for some crazy reason it isn't worked out today. i don't know for sure how soon i am going to be able to do the swap because i have vacation coming up and i want to use this one because it is my best mpg car. today i am gonna swap the filter, new fluid and swap the rear housing for one on a core trans at my buddies shop.
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and now that thats done, how long can you actually run them in fwd? i have heard many opinions on this, in case for some crazy reason it isn't worked out today. i don't know for sure how soon i am going to be able to do the swap because i have vacation coming up and i want to use this one because it is my best mpg car. today i am gonna swap the filter, new fluid and swap the rear housing for one on a core trans at my buddies shop.

 

You can run it in FWD untill the duty c solenoid failes. i ran miue three months before i changed the fluid in the trannny (and the problem went away). You can drive it untill the solenoid fails (can be years). The filter is just a screen and useless to change.

i'm bowing out of this thread since you are going to do what your going to do without a proper sequence. Fluid would solve the problem, but since i got chewed out once, im gracefully bowing out before i say something not so nice.

Have fun and good luck.

 

nipper

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Yeah, and I'm the guy! :D

 

Bottom line is that if your AT fluid is new and clean, you can run for a LONG, LONG time in FWD. The Duty-C solenoid fails due to heat, and if your AT fluid is flowing cleanly around the solenoid then even if it is turned "on" continuously (as is the case when you have a FWD fuse installed), it will continue to work pretty much forever.

 

So, sounds like most everyone is in violent agreement with you. :grin: Change out the AT fluid, use Lucas if you want -- but it probably won't do anything that clean new AT fluid by itself will do -- install that FWD fuse and drive as long as you want until you're ready to do the manual swap.

 

Sounds like a cool project car -- enjoy!

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Yeah, and I'm the guy! :D

 

Bottom line is that if your AT fluid is new and clean, you can run for a LONG, LONG time in FWD. The Duty-C solenoid fails due to heat, and if your AT fluid is flowing cleanly around the solenoid then even if it is turned "on" continuously (as is the case when you have a FWD fuse installed), it will continue to work pretty much forever.

 

So, sounds like most everyone is in violent agreement with you. :grin: Change out the AT fluid, use Lucas if you want -- but it probably won't do anything that clean new AT fluid by itself will do -- install that FWD fuse and drive as long as you want until you're ready to do the manual swap.

 

Sounds like a cool project car -- enjoy!

 

nah it wasnt you, it was xrturbo who jumped down my throat. i just dont have patience for people who dont have patience with others.

 

nipper

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We're crossin' posts, nipper! I meant that I'm the one who ran in FWD for nearly 2 years on my AT before I got around to replacing a fused clutch pack. I was replying to John's post - not yours!

 

heheh stop stepping on my tail then :banana:

 

nipper

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i flipped because you are telling me basically that i am an idiot for swapping the car to manual, that is what i want the car to be and if i can get an entire car with everything i need with a more reliable trans for a car i plan on keeping. so what if its a days worth of work, i appreciate your input but not your approach to the way you gave it.

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i flipped because you are telling me basically that i am an idiot for swapping the car to manual, that is what i want the car to be and if i can get an entire car with everything i need with a more reliable trans for a car i plan on keeping. so what if its a days worth of work, i appreciate your input but not your approach to the way you gave it.

 

COOL it :mad: , You know i can put up with alot of crap, but show me literally where i called you an idiot. If you are going to post things in an open forum some people may criticize, others may not. God know i have been critisized before, but NEVER have i called anyone a name, or chewed them out (untill now) .

I have been civil, i expect the same in return and dont go putting words in my mouth.

If you dont want opinions good or bad, then dont post on an open forum. I just stated a fact. I have done the conversion on other cars, and for all the time and effort, it would be easier and simpler to find one with a manual. I speak from what I have done myself, not what i have wanted to do, or what somone else has done, but what ive done with my own two hands.

 

And i apologize to everyone else on the list, but i wont sit here and be told i called somone an idiot when i did not.

nipper

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