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Over Heats on Highway


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Well I just did some work on my soob and now I don't know what is up.

 

Work done:

 

New water pump

New thermostat

Used Radiator (i pulled it off my soob that was not over heating, but has a bad clutch)

Jumped electric fan switch

Changed the oil.

 

I replace the water pump because it was leaking. That went OK but I broke a timing belt cover trying to get it off. :mad:

 

As long as I am driving around town the temps stay right where the should be. After a few minutes of Highway driving it starts to shoot up. I turn on the heater and slow down and the temps go back to normal.

 

I am thinking head gasket, but I am not sure.

 

Could I possible have a blocked radiator?

 

If the crank pulley was not on tight would it cause this? I did not have a torque wrench.

 

:confused:

 

Any input would be appreciated!

 

Thanks

 

-=fred=-

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Don't waste your time with a radiator flush; save the money and put it toward the radiator. You have the classic symptom of a bad radiator (and you've already eliminated all the other possible gremlins). Very typical.... the faster you go on the highway, the hotter it runs; as soon as you slow down the temp goes down. Replace the radiator with new and you should be okay. It'll cost you around $100 plus shipping for a new radiator.

 

Update: I see you're in Idaho. If you're near Spokane, go (or call) Spalding Auto Wreckers. They'll sell you a brand new Modine radiator for the $100 price. I've bought 5 radiators from them over the past 4 years and have been pleased with every one. Installed the last one in my Brat for the exact same symptoms you're having.

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Well I just did some work on my soob and now I don't know what is up.

 

Work done:

 

New water pump

New thermostat

Used Radiator (i pulled it off my soob that was not over heating, but has a bad clutch)

Jumped electric fan switch

Changed the oil.

 

I replace the water pump because it was leaking. That went OK but I broke a timing belt cover trying to get it off. :mad:

 

As long as I am driving around town the temps stay right where the should be. After a few minutes of Highway driving it starts to shoot up. I turn on the heater and slow down and the temps go back to normal.

 

I am thinking head gasket, but I am not sure.

 

Could I possible have a blocked radiator?

 

If the crank pulley was not on tight would it cause this? I did not have a torque wrench.

 

:confused:

 

Any input would be appreciated!

 

Thanks

 

-=fred=-

 

Is it more apt to do thjis with the ac on? HG is easy, remove the raditor cap let the car spit up a bit whne the tstat opens up, and look for bubbles in the coolant. I am not seeing a new raditor cap on the list. ALso what is your altenator output?

 

nipper

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I "burped" the car while filling up the radiator, and the bubbles did stop. But I will check again.

 

I will pick up a new radiator cap should be cheep.

 

The alternator output shows just above 12 on the gauge but I will test it with a multi-meters tomorrow.

 

-=fred=-

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$60 is a great price for a new radiator; it's a ripoff for a used one. Spalding has an 800# and will ship to you via UPS. Also, the radiators are not listed in their store; call them on the 800# and ask them if they carry the rad for your car (they do; it's exactly the same one I bought for my Brat 4 months ago).

I am no where near Spokane.

 

I searched their (Spalding Auto Wreckers) ebay store and they did not have radiators listed.

 

But seaching e-bay I found a seller called "allnewparts" that is selling a 84 gl radiator for $60 (including shipping), is this too good to be true?

 

-=fred=-

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Try to put out the thermostat, if overheating stops it means you have air pocket in your cooling system, and most often the reason for that is broken gasket??? betwen head and block. And one more thing, in my country most of Subaru enthusiasts have renewed coolers, in some workshops they replace plastic parts with metal ones and you get the best cooler ever.

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Well I tried to look for bubbles in my coolant this morning.

 

I pulled the rad cap and my fan jumping wire until the thermostat opened up.

 

 

No bubbles.

 

I tried to check my radiator for cold spots.

 

That is hard any tips on this?

 

Anyways I put my hand down the drivers side of the radiator and it was hot. I put my hands, as best I could, in the middle between the electric fan the the ac Fan and it was cool to the touch.

 

So I am guessing that means a bad radiator?

 

One other thing, on the volt gauge this morning it read 0. Nothing. The car ran well and I wonder if it may be a wire came lost for the gauge. Is the the plastic clip in to the back of the alternator that feeds the gauge the info?

 

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

-=fred=-

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Sorry I will try to keep it to one problem at a time.

 

I pushed the plastic plug in the back of the alternator and now my gauge works again.

 

I am going to try a price a radiator from local shops now as see if I can get one today!

 

Thanks again for all the help!

 

-=fred=-

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Too much information. KISS....keep it simple stupid. Symptom is classic for a clogged/old radiator. Everything else that might contribute to the problem has already been done. Change the radiator!

 

i was going to say this originally, but he said he has a used raditor from a running car in this one.

I asked about the altenator because a low alt ouput can make the temp gauge read high.

One way to tell if the radiator is clogged, fell the temp of the two hoses after the Tstat has warmed up. touch the two hoses. They should be close to the same temp, if not clogged radiator. Another is just plain age. This is a typical of a clogged radiator.

 

nipper

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Sorry about my rant. But after four EA81 wagons and three gen2 Brats (and one issue with my '86 wagon), I've been down this road so many times and the end result has always been to install a new radiator. My success with used radiators and back flushing the system has been zero so I just just get a new one after the easy things (pump and thermostat) have been eliminated. A new radiator never failed to fix the overheating problem. And I never bought a double row radiator; not really needed unless you want the added capacity for a turbo motor.

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Sorry I will try to keep it to one problem at a time.

 

I pushed the plastic plug in the back of the alternator and now my gauge works again.

 

I am going to try a price a radiator from local shops now as see if I can get one today!

 

Thanks again for all the help!

 

-=fred=-

Good luck with it; like I said mail order is only a day away, but if you can get a local one for close to the price of mail order, go for it.
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  • 2 weeks later...

One way to tell if the radiator is clogged, fell the temp of the two hoses after the Tstat has warmed up. touch the two hoses. They should be close to the same temp, if not clogged radiator. Another is just plain age. This is a typical of a clogged radiator.

 

nipper

you sure? i have the same problem, running hot on the highway but i thought if the two hoses ARE the same temp then it means the radiator isn't cooling...shouldn't the 'out' hose be cooler than the 'in' hose? that would indicate the radiator is doing its job and cooling the coolant before it goes back to the engine.

 

i don't want to buy a new radiator if i don't need one....

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http://www.troubleshooters.com/tpromag/200210/200210.htm

 

Read that and scroll down to the pics of a clogged raditaor. Due to lost flow, not as much water is cooling as with full flow, therefore you wont have equilibrium. In actuality water in the engine is flowing at a high rate of speed, so the temps feel equal. If one side is clogged, the het will build up on one side since the heat isnt disipating, so the output water is getting cooled more then usual. The human hand has a problem telling 180 degrees from 165degrees (hot is hot), so in a way your correct. BUt you can easily tell 180 from 120.

 

http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/Summer-Driving-Tips/cooling-system.html

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14264/css/14264_230.htm

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1/bl719.htm

 

Since there are no real ways to test that i am comfortable to suggest to you, we rule everything else out. The #1 reason for running hot at speed is a clogged radiator (or falling apart radiator). If you have an infa red thermometer then yes you can test. I am NOT going to suggest to anyone to feel a hot raditor where electric fans are.

 

 

im not up to snuff today so i hope that helps.

 

 

nipper

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