I am sure this subject has been exhausted...but....what besides camshaft seals and water pump should be replaced when doing timing belts?

crank seal?...how does it come out /go in

are camseals aseasy to replace as on loyale?

 

what tools are a necessity?

thanks

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML

Here's a technique site you may find useful in repairs of ALL categories.

I am no pro but from my reading on the old gen of subaru website it appears that water and oil pump(reseal at least and check bolts for tightness), cam seals and o-rings, front engine seals are usually attacked at the same time as the timing belts. If you use the search function on this website, there are certainly many posts on just this question.

Its pretty easy to replace them all, at least in the EJ22 it is. Be sure to do both cam seals, the crank seal, the oil pump o-ring and make sure the screws in the back of the oil pump are tight. Some folks recommend changing the water pump at the same time but I didn't, your call. A note of caution, when removing the Tbelt crank gear be careful not to snap off the little ears - They's important - I found out the hard way. To remove the seals just carefully prise them out with a small flat screwdriver. Somebody somewhere also mentioned to put the crank seal on "after" replacing the oil pump, don't put the seal in the pump housing and then try and mount the pump. Also be sure and torque the balancer/crank pulley to spec, if it loosens off it can play hell with your engine. Check out this site: http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/timingbelt.pdf

Good Luck and have fun.

My Mechanic says at the second timing belt replacement at 120K do the water pump, oil pump, cam seals, crank seals, thermostat and the lower hose.

He'll do it all for $550.

 

BobS

I just did the T-belt change and am a bit concerned by the following :-\ :

"be sure and torque the balancer/crank pulley to spec, if it loosens off it can play hell with your engine."

 

I didn't have the sub tool for the crank pulley countertorquing, so I wasn't able to put as much torque tightening the nut than it took to take it off. Still applied quite a bit of torque, but perhaps considerably less than getting the bolt off (used a trick with the starter motor to get the bolt off).

 

So if a bad thing were to happen, what can this do the engine? What conditions might I notice that will preceede the nut coming loose and wreaking havoc?

 

maybe you could take it to a mechanic and pay him to torque it properly. Be aware, some published numbers are too low. Perhaps someone will have the correct torque.(anyone?)

 

If the pulley starts to wobble you may be buying a new crankshaft - don't put this off.