I am thinking of buying a -86 EA82T Leone (loyale) but it has bad front wheel bearings.

Can I use the hubs and driveshafts from a -82 EA81 wagon I have lying around?

 

//Robert

I don't think so. the axles are different I believe. spline count... can't remember what the count is exactly but i do think it's different.

It's not the splines, it's the ball joint and strut mounts. And yes - it won't work.

 

GD

I am now a happy owner of a leone turbo.

A friend of mine has all the parts needed and probably can fix it next weekend.

wheel bearings are easy.. you just need a hammer and a 12" 3/8 socket extention. make sure you buy new dust seals for both sides of the knuckle

Bearings should be the same, but the knuckle, rotors, brakes, cvs are all different.

 

Goto napa and just get new ones. Oh, get new seals too.

 

-Brian

Autozone carries Timken bearings for like $11 each (need two on each side + seals). Heck of a lot cheaper than Napa, and a good brand name in bearings. I don't buy a lot there, but they do carry a few decent parts.

 

Seems like I have to shop around town to get the brands I want at the price I like....

 

GD

Yes, Timken is a very reputable bearing manufacturer. Knowing that, i think maybe i'll go buy some just to have them on hand. Would hate to be wheelin and lose a bearing.

 

-Brian

I don't think Napa and Autozone have distribution centers in Sweden-

Wheel bearings are fairly easy to do, a lot easier than swapping out the whole knuckle assembly.

Does anyone know the original part number stamped on the bearing?

Or have an exakt measurement.

Can I use SKF 2rs sealed bearings?

I am going to part out a rusty turbo coupe tonight for other parts.

A friend of mine had it sitting in the parking lot and wanted to send it to the scrapyard.

I have also found two brand new front shocks by another of my friends for free

I've thought about using sealed bearings for the extra protection, but I don't know if the grease in them can handle the high temperatures. I am running the regular wheel bearings in my Hatch, packed with high-temp Moly/Graphite grease. Six months, still holding up, and I am not nice to this car.

sometimes is life easy!

The problem with front wheel bearing is solved.

The previous owner had changed driveshafts but not torqed the castlenuts at all.

I could turn the nut by fingers when I removed the cotter pin on the left side.

Hopefully is the bearing not harmed by not being torqed right.

 

 

The car who was suposed to become donor car was maybe in better shape then my car.

It was a glx coupe missing its engine.

It now has a new home in my garage waiting for more time and an engine.

...The previous owner had changed driveshafts but not torqed the castlenuts at all.

I could turn the nut by fingers when I removed the cotter pin on the left side...

Sometimes, the castlenut is torqued, but the washers were not installed correctly or insufficient torque was applied (should be 140ft-lbs, can't remember newton-meters) and everything loosens up. Please recheck the castlenut in a week or two.

Yes - see above, and note that 140 is just the book recomendation. Imperical evidence sugests that tighter is better for these. As evidence to support this supposition, VW bus rear axle nuts are the same size, and require 250 lbs.

 

GD

probably best to go with oe equiptment u can get some spicer bearings for a little more, beter then buying china manufactured crap. they'll last longer.