BruceY Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 My 92 Loyale started something NEW last week. It does this with no definet way for me to tell what causes it. the CHECK ENGINE lite comes on occasionaly. Sometimes it stays on for a few seconds or for the full 30 min ride home. Nothing else is noticable as in the engine beginning to miss or sluggishness. continues to purr along. Also, not sure if related. When I turn the AC on and move my blower switch to HIGH, the voltage meter drops from (approx) low 13 to 11 volts. Getting nervous of this draining the battery, I shut down the AC and can watch the V needle go back up. Sometimes when I turn the AC on, that CHECK ENGINE lite comes on. My Loyale has about 140,000 miles with original ALternator but a 2 year old battery:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Dropping the charge like that is not a problem really. The voltmeters in the dash are terribly inaccurate. Only worry about it if the dash light comes on, or it overcharges. Follow the procedure here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 And check the codes. You'll need to plug in the white or black connectors to read the memory. Once you figure out what code its complaining about, check it against the list. Then come back for suggestions. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 first, pull the panel above your legs and check the CEL code. long blinks=10 short =1 watch for a while. Second, let it idle, turn on all your electronics, try to get the V gauge down.... then hop out and check it with a real voltmeter... bet is that the gauge is way off... I have an aftermarket gauge in my Rx... and when it shows 12v, the car shows about 1/8th under the 12 volts... stupid old gauges:mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 Thank You sir, Tommarow the weathermen say it's going to rain , so the house painting I had planned may be out. If so, I'll look into what you suggested and keep ya posted..........thank You Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 And check the codes. You'll need to plug in the white or black connectors to read the memory. Once you figure out what code its complaining about, check it against the list. Then come back for suggestions. Good luck! In my 92 Loyale in order to check codes I suppose to connect green connectors. They are located under the hood, right next to the fuel filter at the driver side. And make sure the "check engine" light is on before checking for codes. Otherwise you will get only the model description. Good luck, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 Tested for CODES today. Did what was told. I did 2 ways. Connected two white ones in engine compartment with engine on at first then with engine off, both times SAME result. My Check Engine , Charge, and a 3rd light was lit . as the code I thought was suppoesd to blink , nothing happened other than a clicking sound eminating from Solinoid 6 , Steady timing tick- tock tick-tock and lights dimmed ever so slightly during ticking. No visable LED anywhere under dash.......... BIG BOOMERS HERE GETINNG OFLINE FOR WHILE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 The little light that blinks is up under your dash. Pull the panel under the steering wheel and look up and slightly to the passenger side of the wheel. You'll see a box about the size of a car radio, and there will be a small light blinking on the front of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 I had the panel pulled , and with a mirror and some bending was unable to see any blinking lights. I did see a aluminium colored box with yellow connectors at one end that had no lights on either end. NOT one to say I'm perfect, I'll look again tomarrow:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Well, that's the right box. Make sure you turn the ignition on before checking for the light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 ok Here it is. this AM I got under the dash, removed 4 small screews holding a small cover AND then did I see the LED blinking:grin: . I had the two green conectors together in the engine compartment. When I moved the car to my driveway, the check engine light was NOT lit. ANyhow I proceeded with the test. I counted each flash. It would flash 7 times fast, have a brief pause then 7 again. this kept repeating itself over and over. After 3-4 mins I figured it would change the pattern but didnt:-\ . Maybe the CHECK ENGINE light not being on when the engine is running is affecting my observations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St Nickolas Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 The single digit codes (like your 7) indicate an 'all clear' condition for that portion of the test. Additionally, it indicates which car you have (Manual Trans vs Auto, CA vs USA, Turbo vs N/A). Repeat that test with no connectors connected, and also with the other pair connected. Report those results. Sometimes the codes store til they are erased, sometimes they erase themselves. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I had the two green conectors together in the engine compartment. You need the two white connectors connected, not the green connectors. Green connectors are for diagnostics, setting timing, etc. White connectors are for the read memory mode. It'll pull up stored codes from when your cel was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 OPPS:-\ Next time, white connectors it is. Just to be sure, white conectors next to the green ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 OPPS:-\ Next time, white connectors it is. Just to be sure, white conectors next to the green ones? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Today was the first time I could work on it. I pulled the panel under the steer colum, White connectors hooked together, turned the key to "run" but not start. I counted 3 long then 5 short THEN I counted 3 long with 2 (or 3) 99% it was 2 short . Then it just kept repeating over and over yippie I'm getting info now:banana: HEHE Anyhow does those mean 35 and 32 ? Just a note 1992 Loyale single point injection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St Nickolas Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 HEHE Anyhow does those mean 35 and 32 ? Just a note 1992 Loyale single point injection? from: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit Oxygen sensors go bad slowly over time. I think they're well toasted by the time the ECU detects anything. Still, you can do some testing on them. You'll need a high impedance meter (all digital meters should qualify). Once things are at operating temp, get the DC voltage from the O2 sensor (ground anywhere on the body. It should read right around 0.5 V DC. Additionally, the ECU should adjust the fuel injection in milliseconds so that you and I wouldn't see it vary by much. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Nick First, Thank You for the reply. Second, My Subbie has 142k miles and as if I recall has never had the O2 sensor replaced so maybe I'll just put a new one in and see if codes clear up. What about the Purge Control Soleonid? Sounds like a dealer item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 That solenoid is darned expensive - $177 at thepartsbin.com. Check yours out first by unplugging the purge solenoid and replacing it with a 68 ohm resistor plugged across the electrical connector. This fools the ECU into thinking the solenoid is still there and working correctly. If your code 35 goes away, then you can either leave the resistor in, or replace the solenoid. You can use a Toyota solenoid - there's a thread on here somewhere with instructions on how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Where's THAT solinoid located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 It's on top the engine, just to the passenger side of the throttle body, and under the big black intake nozzle. There are two there - one for the EGR and one for the purge. Usually, the purge solenoid has a black connector on it, the EGR solenoid a white one. Confirm you have the right one by tracing the vacuum hose that comes to it from the purge canister (the large black cylindrical thing located in the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger side). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 Well here I am today, I know it's been a while. I FINIALLY got to replace the O2 sensor today. Initially I still have the "CHECK ENGINE" light on when I start the engine. Do I need to RESET it some how? Also IF it is the purge control valve , can someone direct me of post a picture of this valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Well here I am today, I know it's been a while. I FINIALLY got to replace the O2 sensor today. Initially I still have the "CHECK ENGINE" light on when I start the engine. Do I need to RESET it some how? Also IF it is the purge control valve , can someone direct me of post a picture of this valve? No need to reset anything. The 02 can't be detected on initial startup by the ECU as it doesn't begin reporting accurately till it reaches about 575 to 675 degrees. If you are getting a code as soon as you start it, then it's probably the purge solenoid. Here's some info: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 Thank you G D I'll drive it to work tomarrow which is a 22 mile drive on I-95 and "hope" it goes out. I'll hold off getting a purge valve for now. Is the toyota valve less expensive than the Subaru ($177 new) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 You can replace the valve with a 33 Ohm 5 watt resistor for about $1. Just plug the two vacuum lines going to the valve with bolts. It will shut the ECU up and won't affect anything else. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceY Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 You can replace the valve with a 33 Ohm 5 watt resistor for about $1. Just plug the two vacuum lines going to the valve with bolts. It will shut the ECU up and won't affect anything else. GD just got a hold of 2 each (I know I needed only 1) 33ohm 5 watt resisters. I have a question on where to plug it into. Can someone post a picture of where the purge solinoid and where to put the resister? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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