I'm removing the right-front axle on my 96 impreza brighton tomorrow and I just wanted to check on a few things.

 

1) How do I kow which direction to knock out the pin that holds the axle to the trans? One side appears to be flush, the other isn't.

 

2) Should I removed the pinch bolts above the steering knuckle or remove the A-arm from the engine crossmember and the sway bar? These are the two most common methods of removal right? Would I have to compress or hold the spring? Do I have to loosen up any or the strut assembly?

 

3) Also, is it a 3/16 in. drift to punch out the axle pin?

 

4) order goes something like, 1) pin, 2) steering knuckle or a-arm, 3) remove axle from tranny, 4) get a big hammer and knock out the axle from the hub, 5) pray the bearings stay put, 6) stuff in new axle

 

Any other tips are appreciated. I've got the car on stands and I've been soaking the bolts and pin for a day now. Thanks.

i have a parts car i'll be removing axles from soon as well....look forward to replied.

Look closely at the axle where the roll pin is; one side of the hole is bevelled slightly and the other is not. Punch the pin out from the unbevelled side; and punch it back in from the bevelled side. Go to Sears and get a Craftsman #42885 WF punch; it's just the right size. Make sure the axle nut is loosened before you jack up the wheel. Also, you don't need hammer to knock out the axle from the wheel hub since the EJ models are splined and slide out easily compared to the older EA models. When re-installing the new axle, remember that the DOJ can go in two ways, 180 degrees out; one way is correct the other will leave you 1/2 tooth off and you'll not be able to get the roll pin back into the hole. Look closely at the inside of the bevelled hole to check whether there's a spline tooth or notch centered over the hole and match it with the stub axle on the transmission and you should be okay. Or, install the DOJ and check if the holes line up; if not, remove and rotate 1/2 turn and re-install. Good luck with this. Hint: if you have a pull a part type wrecking yard, find a Legacy or Impreza and "practice" removing an axle. I like to make all my mistakes on a wreck and not on my own car; I've learned more at PAP than in my own garage about working on my cars. Oh, DOJ is the inner joint of the axle as opposed to the CVJ which is the outer joint. Sorry, if you already know this, I'm just trying to cover all bases.

2) Should I removed the pinch bolts above the steering knuckle or remove the A-arm from the engine crossmember and the sway bar? These are the two most common methods of removal right? Would I have to compress or hold the spring? Do I have to loosen up any or the strut assembly?

I personally like to remove the bolt from the A-arm and separate it from the engine crossmember. I've never needed to remove the swaybar mount or loosen the strut assembly. A steady tug on the wheel hub is usually enough to slide the DOJ off the stub axle once the roll pin is knocked out.

Thanks for the reply, That clears up a few things regarding the pin.

 

about the A-arm method...... Will the whole arm are come out? or will I remove the bolt to the engine crossmember and be able to pivot it on the other mount (its more of a shaft in housing type connection, no bolt) If the whole are does come out then is there anything that I need to do to the pivot? like replace bushings, obviously I'll grease it.

 

Thanks. I'll see if I can't take some pics and maybe someone more senior here can put it in the ad-hoc manual.

Thanks for the reply, That clears up a few things regarding the pin.

 

about the A-arm method...... Will the whole arm are come out? or will I remove the bolt to the engine crossmember and be able to pivot it on the other mount (its more of a shaft in housing type connection, no bolt) If the whole are does come out then is there anything that I need to do to the pivot? like replace bushings, obviously I'll grease it.

 

Thanks. I'll see if I can't take some pics and maybe someone more senior here can put it in the ad-hoc manual.

Nothing else is needed to do to the pivot unless it's badly worn. When re-assembling, do not tighten the bolt while the suspension is off the ground. Replace the nut and bolt and leave it loose. Drop the car off the jackstands and with the weight of the car on the suspension, tighten the pivot bolt.

I personally wouldn't do the 'a' arm method, that works on EA series cars but not on EJ series car. There are two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, I remove the bottom bolt and loosen the top bolt, this way the knuckle will pivot out far enough to remove the axle from the tranns, then you can pull the axle out.

I just did the trans in my car. I could not remove either A arm so I just disconnected the two strut bolts on both sides. It gave plenty of clearance to pull the axles free from the differential. It's much easyer this way and you do not need a strut compressor you only need one when you are actually replacing the strut and need to hold the coil.

I'll defer to Dr. RX on this method; he's done more of these than I have.

I personally wouldn't do the 'a' arm method, that works on EA series cars but not on EJ series car. There are two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, I remove the bottom bolt and loosen the top bolt, this way the knuckle will pivot out far enough to remove the axle from the tranns, then you can pull the axle out.

I did use the front-pivot method on Impreza and it worked. I believe there's an old TSB suggesting this procedure for all models (not sure about SVX).

Third option (and I have done a lot of these): pin out, then the pinch bolt on top of the balljoint, apply force to top of lower control arm to force balljoint out. You should not need to hammer on the axel at all to get it loose from the hub (if you do have to, I recomend replacing it). Punch is 3/16. Pinch bolt is 14mm. Axel nut is 32mm. If you mess with the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, you have to get your alignment done. If not, you can get away without it.

you take the strut bolts out Corkey? don't you have to like.. get the car re-alligned when you do that?

I just pull the a- arm down, ratchet strap it to the other side of the car (as to not get in your way) loosen up the upper strut bolts, and just pull the whole hub away from the tranny...

you take the strut bolts out Corkey? don't you have to like.. get the car re-alligned when you do that?

I just pull the a- arm down, ratchet strap it to the other side of the car (as to not get in your way) loosen up the upper strut bolts, and just pull the whole hub away from the tranny...

Well I haven't yet, and if you're like Ed, you get a lifetime guarantee alignment at Firestone, and just take it down there afterwards. If you pull the "A" arm, you will loose the alignment too. For those who have the camber adjustment on your struts, mark where the bolt lines up, then return it to the same position afterwards.

Only the rear pivot has some adjustment to it, the front has a regular bushing.

That was suprisingly easy to do. My impreza doesnt have front camber adjustment so after loosening the 14mm pinch bolt and failing to pop the ball joint (I didn't try too hard), I removed the upper mount bolt on the strut assembly and pivoted the whole thing out of the way. I soaked the bolts for a day and everything came out like butter.

 

Can anyone help me with torque specs for the axle bolt?

That was suprisingly easy to do. My impreza doesnt have front camber adjustment so after loosening the 14mm pinch bolt and failing to pop the ball joint (I didn't try too hard), I removed the upper mount bolt on the strut assembly and pivoted the whole thing out of the way. I soaked the bolts for a day and everything came out like butter.

 

Can anyone help me with torque specs for the axle bolt?

145 ft-lbs; same as the older cars. More works ok also.

no problem pulling the axel/hub out? i've heard stories about have to beat on them.

 

That was suprisingly easy to do. My impreza doesnt have front camber adjustment so after loosening the 14mm pinch bolt and failing to pop the ball joint (I didn't try too hard), I removed the upper mount bolt on the strut assembly and pivoted the whole thing out of the way. I soaked the bolts for a day and everything came out like butter.

 

Can anyone help me with torque specs for the axle bolt?

It came out like a hot knife through butter.

no problem pulling the axel/hub out? i've heard stories about have to beat on them.

Only time that happens is when the splines are rusted; or someone is thinking about EA81/82 axles. EJ axles come right out.

Only the rear pivot has some adjustment to it, the front has a regular bushing.

You wouldn't like to bet on that would you?? (Hint, I only bet on sure things that I will win.) Mine has front adjustment bolts in the lower strut bolt hole.

You wouldn't like to bet on that would you?? (Hint, I only bet on sure things that I will win.) Mine has front adjustment bolts in the lower strut bolt hole.

But that was about the control arm pivot bolt, that is where the control arm attaches to the crossmember. It would be hard to read "pivot" any differently.