My '81 GL 4x4 Wagon has a 4 speed manual tranny with only 40K miles on the new tranny and engine. Ever since I bought it the clutch pedal has always engaged where it is almost all the way up. Just lately it has started to slip in 1st and 4th gear. It has been a while since I have done any mechanical work on cars and need a refreshment course I guess. My question is this: Is there a way to adjust it so the clutch engages with the pedal further down? I brainstormed for a day or two while staring at the two bolts on top of the tranny on the cable, and still can't quite figure it out. One answer I don't want to hear is that the clutch is going bad, because I'm taking it for a 1400 mile trip w/ a trailer in tow to Texas. Anyhow, thanks for all the help. Jeff

The two nuts on the end of the clutch cable should allow for any adjustments. If you make the cable longer (Move nuts toward end of threads) it should need more pedal travel to engage the clutch. You will also need to adjust the hill holder if you adjust the clutch. Same thing as the clutch adjustment.

if the tranny is slipping it probably needs to be let out. some clutch houses will adjust for free. if not get the book and find out what the play is, it should be near a half inch, but they like to try and confuse you with numbers like 17/32. I eyeballed my 87 and it works fine. just make sure you tighten the locknut.

my car was slipping a bit. I tried tightening up the free play a bit because i didnt like how high the pedal had to come before it engaged. - then it started to slip worse (drove it like this for maybe 5 city miles), so i loosened the nuts back to their original positions. but after that the slip was more pronounced and now here i am just putting the tranny back in after replacing my clutch. I know my car wouldnt have made 1400 mi with a trailer in tow, especially if i had any kind of hill to climb.

The two nuts on the end of the clutch cable should allow for any adjustments. If you make the cable longer (Move nuts toward end of threads) it should need more pedal travel to engage the clutch. You will also need to adjust the hill holder if you adjust the clutch. Same thing as the clutch adjustment.

 

 

Ok, cool, think I will shorten the cable then, so it engages with less play. I don't think the hill holder even works, so that's one thing less to mess with. Thanks! Jeff

Slipping would mean the cable is too tight (it's already too short in other words) - which is virtually impossible if no one has adjusted it...... time for a new clutch pack.

 

GD

Slipping would mean the cable is too tight (it's already too short in other words) - which is virtually impossible if no one has adjusted it...... time for a new clutch pack.

 

GD

 

Think I heard those almost exact words from a friend of mine. Since Elite auto glass hasn't fixed the windows yet, again I'm debating whether or not to sell it *sigh*. I don't want to get stuck in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Texas for that matter with no clutch. My arms are up in the air...what do I do?! Jeff

Pressure plate and flywheel are most likely fine - just replace the disc itself. Only take about 2 hour, and you don't have to pull the engine even. Just remove the radiator, unbolt the engine - lift and pull forward. There is enough room to do everything with the engine in there.

 

GD

Try loosening the clutch cable first. If theres any room for adjustment.

 

-Brian