pos009 Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 so i have leaky-CV boot syndrome, apparently. short synopsis of events leading to frustration-post: 1- notice hole in front inner CV boot (passenger side). 2- buy replacement boot and install with funky-clips that came with boot kit (pinch-style, and I installed by crimping with diagonal pliers...) 3- boot leaks grease- sprays catalytic and surrounding body with cool splatte pattern 4- buy fold-over style clips and tool to tighten them with 5- install clips without cleaning off old grease from sealing surfaces 6- see 3. 7- buy another set of clips, and chanting "3rd times a charm", remove axle for the 3rd time. clean off old grease, seal up clips on clean surfaces and fresh grease in boot- reinstall. 8- see 3. grrr. 9- foment, contemplate wiping off leaky spots and sealing with RTV Ultra-black (one of my favorite things). 10- walk away, wash hands, post here. anyone have suggestions? thoughts? should i bow down to a professional and take it into a shop? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 Looks like you have a dl wagon; when I replaced my front passenger axle on my dl wagon, I added a small heat shield made of thicker guage sheet metal - used the flange where the heat riser connects as my attaching point. My heat shield has a couple of small bends to curve around the boot for maximum clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 anyone have suggestions? thoughts? should i bow down to a professional and take it into a shop? Thanks!! Replace axles, not boots.. A little more money. Less work. My time is important enough to me that I don't want to have to do it 3 times for the sake of saving a few bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 Go to home depot and get some stainless steel hose clamps. That's what I use on all my off-road axles. They never leak on me. You don't have to remove the axle either - just dissasemble the inner joint after you pull it off the trans and do it with the axle still in the knuckle. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 thanks for the replies- see below for comments/questions From kayakertom: >I added a small heat shield made of thicker guage sheet metal - used the flange where the heat riser connects as my attaching point. My heat shield has a couple of small bends to curve around the boot for maximum clearance. I'm not sure I understand- is there a heat problem from the cat or exhaust there that's making my boot leak? From Calebz: >Replace axles, not boots.. A little more money. Less work. My time is important enough to me that I don't want to have to do it 3 times for the sake of saving a few bucks. yea- i definitely understand the time/money thing, and i've put more than an appropriate amount of time in on this one, in order to keep the cost in the $20 range... but if i'm in the $200 range for an axle, i could just take it in and have someone do the boot right. that's even less of my time, and i think i would need a shop to press off/on the outer joint, anyway, if i bought an axle? follow-up questions: rebuilt vs. new? vendors? (Seattle,WA area) From GeneralDisorder: >Go to home depot and get some stainless steel hose clamps. That's what I use on all my off-road axles. They never leak on me. You don't have to remove the axle either - just dissasemble the inner joint after you pull it off the trans and do it with the axle still in the knuckle. This sounds like my kind of fix... if it works, which you say it does! right along the lines of my Ultra-Black, but with metal. It sounds like you're recommending that I pull the axle out of the tranny again, though. is there a reason i couldn't just cut off the current clips and slap hose clamps on while the axle is assembled? grease on in the rubber/metal interface? Oh yes, and it is indeed a DL wagon, '84, 4WD, EA81 motor, I believe. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Don't know if it's pertinent, but just remembered this tidbit: My manual shows a clip-ring on the inside of the joint housing, but there wasn't one when I opened the joint. It didn't seem like a problem- the bearing assembly is quite deep in the pocket, when installed, and I haven't replaced it. But I thought I would mention, just in case someone thinks it is a problem I've overlooked. :-\ Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yes - you could just put the hose clamp on with the axle in place. I was just assuming you would want to clean up the mess, and the rubber should be clean and free of grease where it meets the joint. But the clamps will do the job. I have used them on my lifted wagon - even in the rear where I have all suspension lift and modified axles. Been though the mud pit at the show, tall thick brush, etc. No problems. IF you can get them, a marine boat supply would have the stainless steel clamps with the rounded edges. A normal 1/2" wide clamp works fine, but if you can find some, the older VW bug and ghia boots used some really nice 1/4" wide hose clamps for their boots. That's where I got the idea BTW. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Don't know if it's pertinent, but just remembered this tidbit: My manual shows a clip-ring on the inside of the joint housing, but there wasn't one when I opened the joint. It didn't seem like a problem- the bearing assembly is quite deep in the pocket, when installed, and I haven't replaced it. But I thought I would mention, just in case someone thinks it is a problem I've overlooked. :-\ Thanks! You mean the retaining wire on the cup? You should DEFINATELY replace that. If you don't sometime you will be turning sharply and come off at curb or something and the joint will come apart. It can happen. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 one more for hose clamps. just use a socket to fit the end of the clamp to make sure its extra tight. using a screw driver wont get it right enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 all sounds well and good. i'm off to market with a shopping list of stainless steel clamps (what, 3" or 4"?) and a CV joint retaining ring. i'm guessing dealer will stock these, or can get at least order one reasonably quickly. any Seattle-specific suggestions from anyone in the neighborhood? one more thing, though, from GD's post: You don't have to remove the axle either - just dissasemble the inner joint after you pull it off the trans and do it with the axle still in the knuckle. GD You still have to remove the top (strut) and bottom (ball joint) of the knuckle, right? That's is how i've been doing it, and leaving the steering linkage alone, but just want to make sure there's not some big shortcut I'm missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 You still have to remove the top (strut) and bottom (ball joint) of the knuckle, right? That's is how i've been doing it, and leaving the steering linkage alone, but just want to make sure there's not some big shortcut I'm missing. DOH! No, no, no. That's not how it's done. Take the inner control arm bolt loose (14mm on the engine cross-member), and the sway bar link (12mm, and rubber bushing). Pull on the rear of the wheel - it's very easy and the axle will just drop off the trans (once the pin is out). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... so that's why they call it 'asking for help', eh? thanks a bunch! i'll be on the horn for that clip in the morn, and let ya'll know the (hopefully) good news soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yeah - I doubt you will be able to find anyone that carries those - the dealer does not service CV's - they only replace them so it's unlikely they even have a part number for those. A junk yard would be your best bet for those. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Once you know where it goes, the inner CVjoint circlip can be installed with the axle in place. A messy job, as you have to get your hands right into the grease, but easier than pulling the axle. Although, if you have been doing it the hard way, maybe you should practice pulling axles the easy way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yeah - I doubt you will be able to find anyone that carries those - the dealer does not service CV's - they only replace them so it's unlikely they even have a part number for those. A junk yard would be your best bet for those. GD Turns out they do make 'em still! Part number 623205010 for anyone who cares. Dealer will have one tomorrow for me at the bargain discount price of $11.72 for a little piece of wire... () that's why they're called 'dealers', I guess. Online for about 5 bucks- but then S&H started at 9.95... not a tough choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89thorn Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 this maybe late, but i use a 1/4 inch wide zip tie the longer the better. i believe the with is important to provide a good seal. just wrap around and give a good tug with a pair of pliers if it breaks try another. i buy packs of them because i cant seem to keep enough in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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