ok so i broke the head bolt and it was a close break like right next to the head and i tried a ez out and it broke and i can't drill throught the ez out because it is to hard/broke at an angle so i don't know what to do

and it was a close break like right next to the head

 

Do you mean close to the block? or the head? If you mean the head, you could take it off and should have the whole shaft to use. If it's the block...do you have a welder?

 

You could weld a big nut to the top of it and let it cool. Then wrench it out. I've done that to intake bolts in the head, never a head bolt...should work though, just cover the block up so it doesn't get slag or burnt.

step 1: NEVER USE AN EZ-OUT AS THEY ARE JUNK THAT ALWAYS MAKE YOUR PROBLEMS WORSE!!!!!!

 

Since you already skipped step one, I would recommend heating the bolt up with a torch until it is cherry red, then letting it cool down (naturally) to room temperature (or overnight). Repeat this process at least once and the bolt should be able to be backed out with ease, assuming there is enough left to grab hold of with a vice-grip.

step 1: NEVER USE AN EZ-OUT AS THEY ARE JUNK THAT ALWAYS MAKE YOUR PROBLEMS WORSE!!!!!!

 

Since you already skipped step one, I would recommend heating the bolt up with a torch until it is cherry red, then letting it cool down (naturally) to room temperature (or overnight). Repeat this process at least once and the bolt should be able to be backed out with ease, assuming there is enough left to grab hold of with a vice-grip.

 

I would highly recommend against that procedure unless you are planning to resurface the block.

 

Heat induced structural breakdown and warpage for the lose.

 

I would consider something like this..

 

 

I have a set that attaches to a 3/8 ratchet.. They Kick rump roast. Still need to get the 1/2 set.

 

You can get something similar at harbor freight for about $30

You might be able to weld a nut to the end and twist it out.... this has the added advantage that it will heat the bolt and keep the heat localized to prevent damage to the block. If it's so stuck that you actually broke it though.... I say it's probably not comming out easily. At this point you might consider taking the block to machine shop that has the proper tools.

 

I'm in agreement - "easy outs" are TEH SUCK for the metal. Ok for a woodworking shop, but definately should be banned from all metalworking environments.

 

GD

Do you mean close to the block? or the head? If you mean the head, you could take it off and should have the whole shaft to use. If it's the block...do you have a welder?

 

You could weld a big nut to the top of it and let it cool. Then wrench it out. I've done that to intake bolts in the head, never a head bolt...should work though, just cover the block up so it doesn't get slag or burnt.

 

You might be able to weld a nut to the end and twist it out....

Hmm....

 

Easy outs aren't easy. They should be sued. . Machine shop is the best bet...but you might be able to get another block for the cost of the shop...

alright thanks for all the input guys

technical question..What has happened to the block/bolt that would keep it tight so as the break it...those head bolts seem quite thick and strong...or have they been reused to many times

I've seen some that were pretty wasted - presumably from being exposed to exhaust gasses. It will literally eat the threads right off of them, and I've had heads that didn't want to come off without a fight because of all the carbon around a few of the studs/bolts.

 

GD