okay.. when pulling codes off ECU in diagnostic mode, i got three sensor codes.. TPS, CAS, and O2. the TPS has been replaced, will be calibrating possibly today.. the O2 sensor gets replaced when i calibrate the TPS (its right next to the multimeter and feeler gauges)

 

but im clueless on the CAS. honestly, i thought it was down in the block until i read the FSM.. (incidentally im _real_ glad i did that before posting...saved me from lookin DUMB..) but now i see its just a light, and some holes, and a light sensor in the housing of the disty itself..

 

the quick-and-dirty way is to swap out the distributor with an identical unit from the boneyard, then? would i be better off just replacing the sensor inside the distributor? would my best bet be to find the best disty in the JY i can, and plan on using that unless mine is better mechanically? AND, other than virtually zero side-to-side play, is there anything else to beware of picking up a JY distributor?

 

im already pretty sure that (providing i get the same brand of disty) its a more or less straightforward job to swap... just remove the one, and insert the other.. then jiggle a bit to get the gear set down in the crank. any potential surprises???

 

just trying to pre-emptively apply some covering to me arse, i hate getting up to my elbows in car and THEN discovering some assumption/idea/bit of knowledge poorly investigated is WRONG and i dont know where to go next

 

I call it bugs bunny syndrome, because its the kind of time you see yourself turning into a donkey in your mind....

Before you go swapping distrubutors and faulting the sensor, chekc the distributor (or any replacement) bearings and shaft for play. You dont want to inherit the same issue from another car or wose.

When i had my GL i was forced to get a rebuilt dist since i couldnt find a good used one.

 

 

nipper

Another, cheaper option is to clear the codes, run it and see if they all come back.

Another, cheaper option is to clear the codes, run it and see if they all come back.

+1

 

I've noticed the ECU will throw a CAS code if the car doesn't start the first try. All three subarus I've owned have shown a CAS code.

 

The optical type CAS rarely ever fails, unless it gets wet. I'd be more suspect of the distributor shaft bushings, etc.

+1

 

I've noticed the ECU will throw a CAS code if the car doesn't start the first try. All three subarus I've owned have shown a CAS code.

 

The optical type CAS rarely ever fails, unless it gets wet. I'd be more suspect of the distributor shaft bushings, etc.

 

+1 on that. The CAS disties have an actual bearing for the shaft, and aren't as prone to failure as the sleeve bearing older carb style units. Clear the codes, fix whatever *other* codes you get FIRST before you suspect the disty really is bad. Basically ignore the CAS code till it comes back repeatedly by itself.... and if it still runs OK, I might still ignore it . But definately give the shaft a wiggle just for fun.

 

GD

awesome!

 

so basically.. chances are real good thats a blind alley then. eh, if i need to do something, ill do it. its probably OK then, based on what is said. I cracked the FSM to see if there was any sort of testing to run on the sensor/circuit.. and discovered no, not really.

 

okaaay.. heres another thought. i haven't gone and assumed (by reading the book) that I have an optical CAS when in fact, my '87 EA82 spfi has some other sort of sensor in its hitachi (i think) distributor, have I?? i mean, the partial 89 FSM is what makes me think ive got the photoelectric sensor...I wouldnt know anything else..

 

thanks again. now i know what to check for if i DO have an issue with mine, and even better I know it was liable to be "paranoia" on my part. I shall definitely make the car force me to change the CAS.

+1 on getting rid of addressing one code at a time, leaving the CAS last.

 

if you do replace the distributor, mark very meticulously how the old one is installed so you know EXACTLY how the new used one should look when you swap in the next one.

 

being an optical type sensor (hall effect sensor) i would guess you could try disassembling and cleaning it. no gaurantee that will work, but you may see something causing issue when you do it. sensors/electronics often have issues that a simple cleaning can resolve.

 

either way (replacing or cleaning), i'd have a used one ready to swap in. i've had two bad distributors, the weird part being that while the CAS was the problem it never gave a code in the ECU? both times it occurred on a previously perfectly running vehicle that ended up sitting for an extended period of time. my guess is the internal electronics corroded some or something like that, but i have yet to disassemble either of those "bad" disty's since i had extra's lying around.

*IF* you need to deal with the disty (I would go along with the others ont this, clearing and seeing what happens), the CAS module is more easily replaced with the disty pulled out (IIRC).

 

The other thing is that several have reported that the disty can be hard to remove or replace as the disty's bottom shoulder that fits into the cam-housing can be a tight fit. Many have used a drift to rotate the disty housing back and forth until it comes out. So, that might be another vote for just "waiting and seeing"!

 

...being an optical type sensor (hall effect sensor)...

Psst...Hall Effect uses magnetic proximity. The CAS uses an optical emitter/detector. (picky, picky picky)