1996 Outback: Clutch renewal

[jadburnett]

My mother is on a tight budget and needs a new clutch in her 1996 outback wagon (97k miles, not sure what engine). Her mechanic wants around $1000 to do the job. So my brother and I want to put one in over the Christmas holiday. He has done a clutches on other vehicles but asked me to find out if there are any design flaws or enything else that makes this job less than straight forward. So, for those that have doen this job:

 

It this a straghtforward drop the tranny and replace the clutch job? (we would do it off ramps in the garage)

 

Any special tools needed other than the alignment tool?

 

Any difficult to reach nuts or intricate wiring to keep track of?

 

What seals etc should be dealt with at the same time?

 

If anyone can provide Haynes manual or alldata.com instructions on what all is involved - that would be too cool. Fax to John Burnett (name must be on fax) at 845 735-7466. or email at jburnett.................@lmseng.com (minus the "....................")

 

Thanks a million!

[theotherskip]

i changed my clutch when i pulled the engine to replace the head gaskets, so i can't tell you how difficult it is to pull the transmission in a driveway. there is a lot going on there, though, with the AWD system. you have to remove the driveshaft and 2 halfshafts.

 

the only special tool i needed was the metric alignment tool, about $20 from pep boys.

 

all of the bolts were easy to access (at least when doing it from the engine side). there were only a few wiring harnesses to disconnect.

 

you should get the flywheel machined, replace the rear main seal, oil separator plate (if it is plastic), pilot bearing, throwout bearing, disc and pressure plate. all parts should run you somewhere between $200-250...try 1stsubaruparts.com.

 

as for instructions, you can download the factory service manuals, with very detailed instructions, from http://techinfo.subaru.com . it is $20 for a 72 hour subscription, well worth the $$...

[screwbaru2]

I'd pull the motor, lot eaiser and straight forward. The bottom drivers side bellhousing bolt is a PITA I use a whobble extention and a couple of long extentions that get the breakerbar to the back of the tranny more room to swing and better leaveage. You'll need a clutch pilot tool to lineup the clutch/pressue plate/splines. Other than that I can't think of any special tools. Might want to consider a new rear main engine seal also.

[idosubaru]

actually by far the quickest way possible to do this job is to drop the transmission..with some major "if's". BUT - it is harder working from under the car, working from your back and going to install it. and probably not by yourself if you don't have a really nice transmission jack. if you feel comfortable reinstalling the trans from under the car you will save yourself a ton of time. with a helped you got a good chance. if you have an engine lift and a helper you got a real good chance. you can feed the engine lift (or some chain to it) through the engine compartment, down to the trans to help hold the wait and pull it up while you guide it.....you know with safety in mind and all.

 

the transmission is very straight forward, nothing special. those two lower engine to transmission mounting bolts/nuts are really annoying for sure. a variety assortment of attachments...and in some cases (can't recall which soobs) a wratcheting wrench are nice.

 

engine removal and replacement takes hours. i've had a transmission on the ground before in 30 minutes and not including hack-job engine removal (cut everything rather than remove), you'll never get that with an engine.

 

replace all the clutch components and definitely replace the two clutch clips, they are rather brittle by this time (i pulled a couple 96-98 EJ's earlier this year and all the clips were rather frail....one was even missing), and they're like 2 bucks. i'd buy a clutch kit, which has everything you need. if you wanted a "perfect" job and to do it quick you could buy a used flywheel, have it machined and ready to drop in. rear main seal, just take special care replacing that. strange thing, that seal. i've seen a number of seasoned subaru people have that thing leak shortly after reinstalling (two are members of this board). if it's bone dry i would leave it. you might want to have a metal separator plate (and the associated screws for it, since they are different) in case hers is leaking. buy it locally and return it if you don't need it. Subaru dealers often need them so they always have them in stock.

 

you might even look into a transmission jack rental for this.

[EVOthis]

I know when i did my clutch job in my 96' legacy about 5k miles ago everything went great i had the trans out in under 2 hours but getting that thing back in with the car on jackstands in your driveway was hard as hell.....also i dont know if you have a seperator plate in the model/year but i would examine that pretty closely for oil leakage......just my experience....good luck!

[nipper]

get new clips for the throw out bearing. They dont survive the install sometimes, and wont let you know till a few 1000 miles later.

[gbrand]

my 2 cents, on my 91 even FWD only I did the first clutch by pulling trans-never again, as most work is under car and getting trans back in is a pain. I was given an engine hoist a few yeears back so it is easier for me to work from top and pull engine part way out, I had to replace the clutch fork and then 6 months later replace the clutch. Get the flywheel milled if it is glaxed or scored, and my LUK clutch kit(from pepboys)came with alignmenttool and new clips for the TO bearing.

[Gloyale]

I ussually pull the engine. But strictly speaking the trans is "easier" to pull. fewer bolts, no draining fluids, but I still pull the motor. I need a new transmission jack(other than my back).

Get a rear main seal and a new metal(if you don't have one) seperator plate from the dealer to install while you are doing it. Have the flywheel resurfaced.