Either that or the solenoid C is not having fun...

So the story, i had a really bald tire on the front pass side for a while, so no big deal, i get rid of those tires, and throw on my snows till i can fix the problem. but the problem still occurs, the vehicle is acting like it's FWD... but there's no FWD fuse in... So like a good detective, i bust out the volt meter and start playing with the switch assy.

When i checked the ohmage across the solenoid C it came up as something drastically not 13 ohms.. then i played around with the switch, and got straight down to the wires, with the circut open (this should be 4wd mode) there is no binding on full lock on pavement... and no difference when the cicuit is closed.. So then i find a dirt road, stop, and peg it.. and only the front end digs.. dug a pretty nice hole.. but i've never been able to peel out in this car ever before... i can even do it on asphault, with snow tires!!! :-\

So... i think it's either the clutch pack being burnt out (only being able to give power to the front end) or the solenoid is stuck in some odd position.

The funny thing is.. there's no lights, no blinking AT OIL TEMP or anything...

I've also done all of the preventitive maintainance, changed the ATF, checked my diff oils, they're good, even installed a tranny cooler... no change..

Now, i want my rear power back, what do i do? :-\ i'm going to get all the wheels off the ground, and see if the back end really isn't engaging.. but it sure does feel that way

Or you completely tore up the differential from riding around with two different sized tires on the front.

hmm. IS there a slight bang noise when the front wheels are spinning? And did u check to see if ur rear diff is alrihgt?

if Duty solenoid C is registering the wrong voltage then i'm guessing it's hosed?

 

unlikely, but worth a shot . check to see if the FWD fuse holder is corroded or otherwise shorted. checking continuity between each side in the fuse holder should tell.

The front diff looks good, fluid is nice in there, and both front wheels get power... i can feel it changing wheels when i really give it some nut.

I'll check out the FWD fuse holder later today, and maybe try to check the circuit for more problems..

Alright... so i'm really thinking it's the solenoid.. soooo....

what's involved with changing that? Price.. time... mess?

is there any sort of quick fix? i mean.. i can always throw in the FWD fuse... but i've got to drive a few hundred miles this coming weekend.. (like 600)... anything i should do? i'm getting the tires on my 16" rims changed.... so they'll all be withing subaru spec...

i just don't like driving around in fwd... but i suppose if the solenoid is always screwed.... why not just keep it on it's way out?

there's a really good thread or webpage i've found searching through the forum on replacing the rear transfer clutches and Duty Solenoid C. it can be done without removing the transmission. unfortunately i don't have that thread saved anywhere and don't recall exactly how to find it.

 

but if you drop the rear of the trans and remove the rear extension housing, that will give you access to Duty Solenoid C.

Either that or the solenoid C is not having fun...

So the story, i had a really bald tire on the front pass side for a while, so no big deal, i get rid of those tires, and throw on my snows till i can fix the problem. but the problem still occurs, the vehicle is acting like it's FWD... but there's no FWD fuse in... So like a good detective, i bust out the volt meter and start playing with the switch assy.

When i checked the ohmage across the solenoid C it came up as something drastically not 13 ohms.. then i played around with the switch, and got straight down to the wires, with the circut open (this should be 4wd mode) there is no binding on full lock on pavement... and no difference when the cicuit is closed.. So then i find a dirt road, stop, and peg it.. and only the front end digs.. dug a pretty nice hole.. but i've never been able to peel out in this car ever before... i can even do it on asphault, with snow tires!!! :-\

So... i think it's either the clutch pack being burnt out (only being able to give power to the front end) or the solenoid is stuck in some odd position.

The funny thing is.. there's no lights, no blinking AT OIL TEMP or anything...

I've also done all of the preventitive maintainance, changed the ATF, checked my diff oils, they're good, even installed a tranny cooler... no change..

Now, i want my rear power back, what do i do? :-\ i'm going to get all the wheels off the ground, and see if the back end really isn't engaging.. but it sure does feel that way

 

no lite means that the solenoid is responding, but the clutchs are slipping. When you replace the clutch pack replace the solenoid.

 

bald tire bad.....

 

nipper

Alright... so i'm really thinking it's the solenoid.. soooo....

what's involved with changing that? Price.. time... mess?

is there any sort of quick fix? i mean.. i can always throw in the FWD fuse... but i've got to drive a few hundred miles this coming weekend.. (like 600)... anything i should do? i'm getting the tires on my 16" rims changed.... so they'll all be withing subaru spec...

i just don't like driving around in fwd... but i suppose if the solenoid is always screwed.... why not just keep it on it's way out?

 

I'm going through the saem thing with my 95 Legacy, but mine is throwing a duty c code on startup. I priced the needed parts:

new duty c (31942AA061)

plate under duty c (31952AA030)

2 gaskets between duty/plate & plate/case (31954AA071)

gasket between rear housing and main case (31337AA120)

1st Subaru was cheaper on the parts, but they have a 9.95 min on shipping. So total was 88.66 Subaru Genuine Parts has a $7.25 min on shipping. Total was 88.02. Your part numbers may be different since mine is a 95, but it gives you an idea. Good luck.

how about removing the rear section of the drive shaft for the week end. wopuld that hurt any thing??

 

i don't jhave the thread but here are some pics:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50543

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?

 

some of the parts mentioned in the former post seem unneeded. like "plate under". check out he pics and see what you think. my repair used silicone gasket on the rear extention housing, not factory gasket. definitly use new duty c.

 

if you know what a bad clutch pack loks like can you figure out what a good clutch pack looks like? and if it's your labor would consider used.

 

good luck

 

Alright... so i'm really thinking it's the solenoid.. soooo....

what's involved with changing that? Price.. time... mess?

is there any sort of quick fix? i mean.. i can always throw in the FWD fuse... but i've got to drive a few hundred miles this coming weekend.. (like 600)... anything i should do? i'm getting the tires on my 16" rims changed.... so they'll all be withing subaru spec...

i just don't like driving around in fwd... but i suppose if the solenoid is always screwed.... why not just keep it on it's way out?

i suppose the 1st step would be to replace the solenoid, and if that doesn't fix it... well.. i know how to open it back up again, right?

So time wise... i'm guessing i should actually bring her down to the shop, and get it up high.. opposed to ripping it open in the parking lot... correct? one of those jobs? :-\

oh yeah.. so when i troggle the 4wd/awd, although there is no binding, on restart i still get the AT OIL Temp light... so the TCU knows that something is up when you play with the wire.. so yes.. the clutch pack is slipping... hmmm... i'll have to test out the solenoid again, and make sure i'm getting a proper resistance off of it.