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EA-82T Boosting question


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Hey guys... ive installed my very own MBC what i need to know is.... whats the name of the brand that makes Do-it-yourself ECU kits.... and where can i get one.... and for the time being... how do i disable fuel cutoff... my car spikes alot... not too high... just its really bad for my car to go super lean so quickly... i dont want to melt anything!!!!!!!

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turn the boost back down for now. First thing to do, is research what kind of fuel system you want. There's a couple people here running a MegaSquirt kit, some have added the Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) as well. Others have put a piggyback on the stock ECU to help comtrol it. Remember, you need larger injectors, adjusable fuel pressure regulator, higher flowing fuel pump along with your fuel managemtn setup. Then, turn up the boost but I would also recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor, like an Innovative LM-1 to watch closely your a/f ratios.

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turn the boost back down for now. First thing to do, is research what kind of fuel system you want. There's a couple people here running a MegaSquirt kit, some have added the Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) as well. Others have put a piggyback on the stock ECU to help comtrol it. Remember, you need larger injectors, adjusable fuel pressure regulator, higher flowing fuel pump along with your fuel managemtn setup. Then, turn up the boost but I would also recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor, like an Innovative LM-1 to watch closely your a/f ratios.

oh believe me.... Ive got my plans.. i have a walbrol fuelpump... and im not bossting too high just 10lbs for now... probably less unless i can get this spiking issue to stop...(thatl come with my electronic BC) and bigger injectors... from what would fit in my ea-82??????????????????????? Im not planning on super pounds... just mabey 20........ just kidding.. like 14 i think would be the highest on these pistons.... haha forging an ea-82 i like IT!

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I'm running '83 Nissan 280ZX turbo injectors in my RX. I never ran lean while running 12psi of boost. Its actually closer to rich when I was driving it normally but unfortunatly for me, I blew the rings out of the SPFI shortblock I have in there. Oh well, time for a new engine, again:rolleyes:

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do they just screw right in???? and how do i get rid of fuel cutoff????????

The fuel cutoff is built in to the ECU based on reference from the MAF.

 

You can:

 

Keep boost at 9psi or less

Clamp the reference signal

Install a piggy back type FCD

Install megasquirt and throw the MAF away.

 

 

Theres a ton more detailed info on the board about this. Everyone and thier mother has been fighting Hotwire fuel cut for quite a while

 

Oh, and the Z injectors are direct swaps

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What year is this? If its 85/86, one of the pressure switches on the p/s strut tower control the fuel cutoff. If its 87+, that's built into the ECU.

Just a guess ;)

 

beataru

Join Date: Jul 2006

City: Scottsdale

State: Arizona

Age: 16

Posts: 258 iTrader: (0)

 

Vehicles: 87 GL-10 Wagon IC,15pugs

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easy Chase. your going to dump a ton of cash into my baby then blow it up.:-\

 

leave the injectors alone. leave the fuel system alone. 9-10 psi boost is all you need. those pistons are NOT forged.

 

getting around the fuel cut is a pain in the rear and has its hazzards.

 

dont get all buck wild on it.

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I dont have the cash flow to do anything about it right now... im going to let it self regulate for now... until i get a more reliable boost controller.... Preferebly with fuzzy logic.. and... GAUGES... i know that the Boost gauge in there is accurate... but its not fast enough... heres an example... im roll in to it and the fuel cuts way before the boost guage even reads .65... so its not responding fast enough... ill just buy a pyrometer and an air-fuel ratio lightshow and... and the thigy that piggybacks on the MAF throttle position thinggy mo bober or something like that... and then once i know how this thing reacts... ill reboost it... I know the pistons are not forged... im thinking of having someone make some for me.... because if my calculations (tee hee) are correct... then with good quality forged pistons... i could safely push the boost up to 14-18 lbs on pump gas!!! But thats down the road... for now i got my blueroo back and im happy that it runs good!!! since it did break... I dont want that to happon again.... or if Jonathan gives me his Rs engine... yeah right.............................................................................................:clap:

 

Oh yeah... i am waxing it today... YAY its my first time doing this... but so far its looking really good... and no.. its not in the sunlight baking on to it as i type this!!!

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I dont have the cash flow to do anything about it right now... im going to let it self regulate for now... until i get a more reliable boost controller.... Preferebly with fuzzy logic.. and... GAUGES... i know that the Boost gauge in there is accurate... but its not fast enough... heres an example... im roll in to it and the fuel cuts way before the boost guage even reads .65... so its not responding fast enough... ill just buy a pyrometer and an air-fuel ratio lightshow and... and the thigy that piggybacks on the MAF throttle position thinggy mo bober or something like that... and then once i know how this thing reacts... ill reboost it... I know the pistons are not forged... im thinking of having someone make some for me.... because if my calculations (tee hee) are correct... then with good quality forged pistons... i could safely push the boost up to 14-18 lbs on pump gas!!! But thats down the road... for now i got my blueroo back and im happy that it runs good!!! since it did break... I dont want that to happon again.... or if Jonathan gives me his Rs engine... yeah right.............................................................................................:clap:

 

Oh yeah... i am waxing it today... YAY its my first time doing this... but so far its looking really good... and no.. its not in the sunlight baking on to it as i type this!!!

 

I had a quote on custom forged JE pistons and head studs a long time ago. it ran close to the 1800.00 mark if I rember correctly. thats not counting all the extras that go along with all that. I did not have the funds or the justification at that time. the heads are somewhat limited in creating big HP numbers as well and would ned work.

 

you think you are hitting fuel cut at .65 Bar? is that sustained full throttle? I never really had a problem running close to that boost level with that car. you may have some other problem. possibly an ignition misfire under hard load(weak coil or bad secondary system) or if its running lean/overadvanced and knock retarding.

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OK SOMETHINGS WRONG!!!! I dont know what happoned... i returned the boost to its origional level by reconnecting the turbo to itself... and now... it wont spool.. well it takes forever to spool... it wont hit full boost... Heres what i have learned so far... it has a GIGANTIC exhaust leak....that is causing it not to spool quickly or eficiantly... i think the wastegates stuck open... but why am i hearing the gate?? Its internal.... Remeber people i have a WRX turbocharger......................... WHY WHY WHY??? it has no power what so ever....... why??? russ i need you opinion the most! :-\ :-\ :eek:

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address the GIGANTIC exhaust leak first(check the up pipe gaskets. They blew out multiple times on me).

I doubt the WG is stuck open unless the actuator got damaged somehow. the exhaust just takes the path of least resistance.

also make sure you dont actually have a GIGANTIC Boost leak. what did you remove and reinstall when you did all that work on the car? I would look there as well. all that TD04 turbo and intercooler plumbing is far from factory quality. It was put together by some guy in his garage on a budjet(me). Therefore it does not have the fit and finish of a factory system so you need to be carefull with it and inspect it often.

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do you and your engine a favor

 

check air intake system for restrictions, stick on a subspeed kit with uni filter

check ignition system for proper performance, change cap and rotor to napa premium made in japan, switch to accel 8140c coil -- but keep the old one, and the #1 thing to do is put in NGK BPR6EY-11

check the fuel system, change the filter to a pruolator, inspect the fuel lines

install quality vac/boost guage with small dia line, 1/8" iirc, hook the line to the port on the intake manifold that has a square head plug in it

if the line is larger or longer than necessary, there will be unacceptable delay

use a short hose from wastegate port to turbo outlet port

inspect the cooling system, make sure you use a NAPA SUPERSTAT or genuine subaru thermostat of the correct temp. with jiggle pin

change oil, filter, and drain plug gasket use a high quality diesel engine rated oil, CH4+ is the "current" rating, do not skimp as the turbo and hlas will suffer if you do, you should be able to run 15w40 or 15w50 year round but adjust as needed according to climate AVOID FRAM oil filters, they are JUNK PUROLATOR and WIX are good, along with their private label brands, the "ADVANCE AUTO" AA3600 filter is a PUROLATOR in a red package with a textured outside to hold onto, and when you install the filter, put the bejeses to it, otherwise it may vibrate loose and pour out oil

BUY CLEAN FUEL AND KEEP IT CLEAN E-85 will work fine if you know what you are doing and how to drive with it it helps if you have 2g of regular to 13g of E-85, but adjust to your particular needs E-85 will give you the capability of making more boost with stock turbo and exhaust, even with significant exhaust leaks if you want to watch AFR, buy a lambda system

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do you and your engine a favor

 

check the fuel system, change the filter to a pruolator, inspect the fuel lines

if

quick note... these may flow better..... But that means they dont filter as well!!! and CI...and CI-4 is the current API service rating for diesel..... My dad has an isuzu i make him buy only the best for it! And Mobile one is the best synthetic oil made PERIOD!!! 15W-40 is too thick of oil for this engine my oil clearance is not an THAT BIG.. ill be using the rating for spark ignition engines off of the API service rating of S not C, for diesels, .. and the current best is SM.. Or SM-4... I know frams suck... and NO I WILL NOT PUT THE BEGIESES TO IT.. i dont feel like Crushing a filter on my oil cooler adapter... no thanks... what the label says is what you do! if it keeps spinning off from rattleing your engine RATTLES a bit to much... i dont like to use fram.....but if im changing my oil every 3 or sooner... WHO CARES! and checker and they (were the closest and only open) didnt have anything else... i was in a pinch...... ...............................

And my intake system is fine.. ill be going to foam soon enough.... The TD04 is super cheap.. not saying that i want to blow it up.. but it can handle the little tiny stresses of this engine it was designed for a 2.2-2.5 liter not for a 1.8... so this is chumpchange for it....

 

I checked my headers as soon as they cooled off a bit... and theres black all over the passenger head... i blew a gasket... oh well.. easy fix.. BAP will have what i need im almost positive.. (if not 1stsubaru will.) and they give me an unreal discount... there the kind of store who knows they dont know about your car... so they help you acordingly.. not the autozone or checker.. where they think they know everything.... all in all i think shes all good.... Im doing my best to not hit boost while the header is in dissarray but merging is so difficult with a 7-1 engine and no torque even if my life was at sake... but i love my roo... the WAX turned out great.. .its so smothe and silky... this weekend i hope to allign it and paint the wheel i messed up (trying to break the bead with a "shovel") Those are scarry Any mechanic will no what i mean!:brow:

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not really mike i'm pretty sure that the bottom is going to go first remeber noss's wagon

also look for ram performance they make high performance stuff for the ea series engines, forged pistons etc

Noss's wagon seizedish the turbo and boiled the oil till it had no vescosity left, that why it got a knock.

I run rotella T diesel oil in my Rx... 15W-40 Works great, shut up the lifters... smells a bit foul when it burns:-\

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i only bought the best filter they made!!!!! Extended perfomance or something... thats why i hate checker.. they only had the fram one for my car in stock... and i needed it right then.... im going to get my header gaskets now... also theres a bolt missing from the headers..... i sure hope BAP has them...

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