This may sound dumb but I tried 8mm and 10mm open end wrench and 8 was too small, 10 seemed to fit ok but it felt like I was starting to round the nuts... I didnt have a 9mm to try.

 

Is there a special tool for this, do they turn counterclockwise to remove as normal nuts would?

The only special tool I am aware of would be a flare nut wrench, some times called a tubing wrench.

 

They are like a six point box end wrench with a slot cut out to allow it to pass over the tubing. The ones I have seem to fit better then ordinary wrenches. It may be that you need a 10mm flare nut wrench.

 

I got mine at Sears. The set was about $30US

The only special tool I am aware of would be a flare nut wrench, some times called a tubing wrench.

 

They are like a six point box end wrench with a slot cut out to allow it to pass over the tubing. The ones I have seem to fit better then ordinary wrenches. It may be that you need a 10mm flare nut wrench.

 

Exactly. For example: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt60612.html

10mm should be it. some PB blaster or Liquid Wrench may help if it's that stuck. (WD40 aint the same). some carefully applied heat (to the nut) would probably back it right off very easily if you have a torch and can keep it from blasting your reservoir plastic.

I had this issue with the correct sized flare nut wrench on a wheel cylinder connection so I gave up. I since saw these flare nut wrenches that actually look like regular wrenches but have a little flip to opening so you can close it around the tube and then close the flip so you've basically got an actual 6pt wrench around the fitting.

Is there a special tool for this, do they turn counterclockwise to remove as normal nuts would?

A flare-nut wrench is a beautiful thing. Everything should turn normal. Be careful not to mess up the fittings once you get them loose. They seal because of the special flares they have at the end.

Also make sure you get a craftsman or better flare wrench. The tolerances on a cheap autozone tool aren't as good and I've heard a lot of stories of people stripping nuts with them.

 

Although one neat trick I just read was clamping vice grips onto the wrench to keep it tight.

Also make sure you get a craftsman or better flare wrench. The tolerances on a cheap autozone tool aren't as good and I've heard a lot of stories of people stripping nuts with them.

 

Although one neat trick I just read was clamping vice grips onto the wrench to keep it tight.

Yes, very good point. Don't get a super el-cheapo flare nut wrench. Drop the money for a good one and save your nuts.

 

Did I just say "save your nuts"?

What do you guys think of like these armstrong flare nut wrenches? These are 12pt which probably isn't the best but what's the deal with how it looks like the flip open and then close around the line, it seems like that'd give a nice tight connection. Or maybe that's just so they can ratchet. Anyway I"m sure they're not cheap.

I don't think I would use them on a brake line. Plus you only need one wrench. Mine was I think $7 at sears:

 

What do you guys think of like these armstrong flare nut wrenches? These are 12pt which probably isn't the best but what's the deal with how it looks like the flip open and then close around the line, it seems like that'd give a nice tight connection. Or maybe that's just so they can ratchet. Anyway I"m sure they're not cheap.

 

Holy cow, I didn't think it was possible to make something like that! I was really wishing for a ratcheting flare nut wrench last week as I was removing my EGR pipe. The threaded fitting is a mile long and there's not much room to swing a wrench.

 

I wouldn't use a 12 point wrench to break the nut loose, it's likely to round the nut. Use a GOOD 6 point to break it loose. Good ones grip on the flats, not the points.