Joey Joe Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 My 90 loyale turbo spfi subaru has a bent frame, there is no way to fix this as far as I know unless I want to pay big bucks, am I right? The engine is awesome, it has 40,000 miles on it and a lot of power, so I want to use the engine for my new subaru. I am looking for a subaru with everything in good shape, less the engine, so I can swap it in. What are my options for a good subaru to put this engine into. I am assuming I need one with a very similar wiring harness and also fuel injection set up. My question is should I be looking for a subaru that is a turbo and fuel injected so that the wiring and fuel systems match, or can I put this engine into other cars that, for example werent spfi/turbo, without having to do a lot of wiring or excessive work to make it run. Basically, what range in year/make/model am I dealing with. Thank You Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Your engine is MPFI Turbo, not SPFI. You are going to look for an 87 to 90 Turbo. Should bolt right in to those. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 My 90 loyale turbo spfi subaru has a bent frame, there is no way to fix this as far as I know unless I want to pay big bucks, am I right? ... First, GD's statements +1. Second, where is the frame bent? In other words, where was the car hit and how? In general, any tweaking of the unibody would economically doom the car, but not all damage would be to the unibody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 The right A-arm mount is a little less than an inch pushed in, due to a curb impact on the front right tire, because of this, the tire is about an inch off from straight up and down. This problem caused the front hub and axle to destroy them selves, causing me to start lookin for a new rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 The right A-arm mount is a little less than an inch pushed in, due to a curb impact on the front right tire, because of this, the tire is about an inch off from straight up and down. This problem caused the front hub and axle to destroy them selves, causing me to start lookin for a new rig. All replaceable parts. Not too bad if you get a donor vehicle, go to PAP, or get some parts from board members. If no body damage, probably cheaper to go this route than do ad engine and whatever swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixracing Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 oh dude .....she's a fixer....... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 You got the rare soob! Very worth fixing with another loyale body. Finding one that is 2wd has never had the stress of 4x4, seek that body. The 2wds had a crappy 84hp engine, they just might be even easier to find too.Good Luck- non matching numbers for your setup will destroy a collectors value of it, but it is no doubt worth it to keep running. Do not use the gl/dl body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 You got the rare soob! Very worth fixing with another loyale body. Finding one that is 2wd has never had the stress of 4x4, seek that body. The 2wds had a crappy 84hp engine, they just might be even easier to find too.Good Luck- non matching numbers for your setup will destroy a collectors value of it, but it is no doubt worth it to keep running. Do not use the gl/dl body Do you read anything? He has a 90 Turbo - that's 115 HP, and likely it's 4WD, but he didn't say one way or the other. Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Do you read anything? He has a 90 Turbo - that's 115 HP, and likely it's 4WD, but he didn't say one way or the other. Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. GD he said that the guy needs to find a 2wd NA to snag the front off of to repair his car with..... did you read his post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 he said that the guy needs to find a 2wd NA to snag the front off of to repair his car with..... did you read his post? He also said do not use the GL/DL body. It didn't help that BGD's post was confusing due to lack of sentence structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 ...and likely it's 4WD, but he didn't say one way or the other. Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. GD It is a 4WD... started life with a 4EAT (now living with me) and was swapped to a D/R 5-speed. Loyales, even the turbos, tend to be closer to DL trim then GL, and there are a few minor differences, but GD is right in that it is mostly badge engineering. "Collector value"??? Loyales were meant to be the cheap entry in Subaru's lineup when the Legacy came out; hardly "collector" material. And there seems no sense in looking for 2WD parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 You got the rare soob! Non matching numbers for your setup will destroy a collectors value of it, but it is no doubt worth it to keep running. Do not use the gl/dl body Haahahah! A collectors value for a loyale! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 You got the rare soob! Very worth fixing with another loyale body. Finding one that is 2wd has never had the stress of 4x4, seek that body. The 2wds had a crappy 84hp engine, they just might be even easier to find too.Good Luck- non matching numbers for your setup will destroy a collectors value of it, but it is no doubt worth it to keep running. Do not use the gl/dl body it's a 20 year old subaru outside this board there is no collectors value. the dl/gl bodys are the same as the loyale the only differance is the writing on the trim and the style of the trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 SO how hould I go about fixing the bent A-arm mount, I did not know there was a way to fix it once it was bent. Can it be replaced some how, obviously I can not bend it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 SO how hould I go about fixing the bent A-arm mount, I did not know there was a way to fix it once it was bent. Can it be replaced some how, obviously I can not bend it back. You replace the engine cross-member. 4 bolts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I assume that you are talking about where the suspension control arm mounts to the engine crossmember? (Rather than the control arm itself, fore/aft reaction rod or its mounts?) If so, what GD said (except for a couple more bolts that mount the engine). Really, not a hard fix. ...the dl/gl bodys are the same as the loyale the only differance is the writing on the trim and the style of the trim. There are body panel and glass differences, just none germain to this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Yes I am talking about where the suspension control arm mounts to the engine cross member, I didnt know it was replacable, thank god. So I will go to a junk yard and ask them for the engine cross member. I imagine I am going to need remove the engine weight from the cross member, can I jack it up or do I have to use a hoist. Any other tips would be appreciated but this sounds like one of those figure it out as I go jobs. I assume that you are talking about where the suspension control arm mounts to the engine crossmember? (Rather than the control arm itself, fore/aft reaction rod or its mounts?) If so, what GD said (except for a couple more bolts that mount the engine). Really, not a hard fix. There are body panel and glass differences, just none germain to this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 At my junkyard of choice, the owner lets me flip the cars over if I need crossmembers and whatnot from underneath. makes it a lot easier to remove. You'll need to pull the steering rack out of the crossmember, rip the exhaust off, and undo the two engine mount bolts and the 4 crossmember bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Oh - and probably should note that you need one from a turbo. Non-turbo will not clear the exhaust. That narrows down the donor cars considerably. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixracing Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 tole ya ........"she's a fixer" lol these cars are just too simple and cheap .....makes the fun factor higher.... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 How did you hit the curb? From what angle? Without seeing it, it sounds like you bent the radius(strut) rod. Very fixable. You also more than likely twisted the lower control arm. These do not have A-arms. Less than $20 at almost any junk yard and you'll be back on the road. Can you get a pic or two showing the damage to be sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted December 1, 2006 Author Share Posted December 1, 2006 I swapped out the entire front right end and it still isnt straight because of the bent cross member. Yeah you are right though, everything was bent so I replaced it all from my donor rig I had at the time. Once I get the cross member off and am down to the frame should I check for any damage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbarber Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 he said that the guy needs to find a 2wd NA to snag the front off of to repair his car with..... did you read his post? Um, this is what he said: "I am looking for a subaru with everything in good shape, less the engine, so I can swap it in. What are my options for a good subaru to put this engine into." I'm wide open to being wrong here, but to me it sounds like he wants the whole car so that he can swap motors. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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