81 wagon 4wd ea81 engine Manual tranny. I am resurrecting this thing.

hasn't been run in awhile. The carb isn't getting gas. I checked the two fuel filters. The first has fuel in it. The second one doesn't.

When you turn the key, there is positively no sound whatsoever coming from the pump. I unplugged the connection to the pump, and slapped a volt/ohm meter on the connection and cranked the key. The meter moved.

It is a brand new batt. Is the fuel pump shot or am I missing something? Also, In checking the auto part store (online) the are a couple different styles. One is a Master(brand) # E8058, another is a Carter in-line one that looks like a window weight. Thoughts on these?

Probably the pump then. Any carb pump that does about 3 psi will work fine. The stock pumps are 2.5 to 3 psi or so.

 

GD

Thanks everyone, I have not got a chance to play with the wires yet. I'll let ya know what happens SC

I will rule out a possible weak battery since you said it is new. Problem like yours sound likely caused by a bad alternator, clogged fuel line, a dirty carb.

On the issue of a replacement pump, I would go with a "universal" type, vs an OEM. Aftermarkets are much cheaper, and allow for some mods in the fuel pump area (if needed). For example, if your fuel lines or filter bracket are corroded, here's your chance to remedy that situation. If you go this route, you'll have to splice the old electrical connector onto the new one though.

I've used Mr Gasket brand pumps several times, and they work great. The round-bodied pumps can easily be mounted using inexpensive "U" brackets found in the electrical section at building supply stores.

 

good luck, John

I'm not following how the alternator affects the fuel pump?

Doesn't that just juice the battery back up?

 

it looks like an original fuel pump so it probably bad just from sitting.

 

I thik I might just pull it and hook it up direct (with a 15amp?) fuse direct to a battery and see if it will suck fuel from a can. Good idea or not?

I cant speak for Silentpal, but some fuel delivery designs have an emergency shut-off feature (ie in the event of a frontal collision). I do believe an alt output of "0" in some of the Sube models triggers this shutdown of the fuel pump. However, I can tell you it's never happened in any of the Subes I've ever owned.

As far as testing the old one, the battery test will only tell you if it works. You may as well measure the pressure while you're at it to rule out a "weak" pump. If it's old or suspect, replacing it will give you better overall reliability.

good luck, John

Thanks John. I think just replacing it is the way to go. I'll probably pull the Alternator as well and ahve it tested. Much obliged.

 

Must wait til it warms up though. Today wind chills are in the minus 20's soupposed to get worse.

Just thought of something>

 

It seems that this thing might have an inertia/kill switch for the fuel pump.

I had a printout of this part hiding on my desk.

Could this be the culprit?

Where would this bad boy be located?

The only "manual" on/off switch I know of would be the ignition switch. But since you've tested for juice at the pump, you can safely rule this out as a possible cause. I don't believe the pump requires chassis ground - which could also prevent it from coming on with the key turned.

I would try to have that alt tested in the vehicle (under load) if at all possible.

good luck, John

 

 

The meter moved,but,did it move close to 12 volts? 6 volts won`t cut it.

Even a 12 volt reading w/the connector unplugged(and the circuit unloaded) is suspect.Better to test the voltage w/the pump still connected.

 

Or,test the pump definitively by hot wiring it.

 

Unlike later models w/a fuel pump control unit to shut off the pump in the event of a crash your 81 relies on a signal from the voltage regulator.Hence the need for a functional alternator.

Thanks Naru. Much appreciated. makes more sense now.

 

Although I haven't figured this fuel pump cutout switch thing yet. At least two sites sell this part suppposedly for this vehicle.

Fuel pump arrived in the mail. Interestingly enough, the instructions said to make sure the Oil pressure switch is funtioning otherwise the unit won't work.:-\ Luckily, I have a new one and am going to install it at same time.

Thanks Naru. Much appreciated. makes more sense now.

 

Although I haven't figured this fuel pump cutout switch thing yet. At least two sites sell this part suppposedly for this vehicle.

 

82 and newer use a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" under the dash instead of the regulator, and use the tach pulse signal to determine if the pump should be running or not. That's probably what they are refereing to.

 

GD

Arrgh. Installed the new fuel pump today. No joy. Fuel pump doesn't seem to be running. I turn the key just before engaging the starter (you know the position that lights up the dash) and put my hand on the pump. Nothing. Yet, when I turn the key to start and have the meter hooked up the needle moves.

Is the pump supposed to run prior to engaging the starter?

I guess am going to have to check the alt. too.

 

I cranked the engine several times to build the oil pressure. It went up to 25 last time I looked at it.

have received a new volt age regulator. Will try that. If this deosn't work maybe I'll just hotwire direct the thing to a toggle switch!!! Alternator checked out fine.

The pump won`t operate with the key in the run position w/o the engine running.That is the whole point of hooking it up through the voltage regulator.

 

The pump will run when the starter is engaged.

 

Oil pressure is irrelevent for your application.

 

Your car doesn`t have an inertia,or any other type of fuel cut off switch.Nor a fuel pump relay to give grief.

 

Make sure the pump is well grounded.

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Make sure the pump is well grounded.

 

Yeah, this occurred to me, and I mentioned it earlier in the thread...

You may want to run a seperate ground to the chassis. It's possible that there is a "ground disconnect" somewhere between the ign switch and the ground spade at the pump.

Not sure I would go with an on/off toggle for the pump. The ignition/fuel shut-off feature is pretty much foolproof (and much safer) when working properly.

good luck, John

I will try a separate ground. But, if there is no inertia switch for my rig, then what are they selling at the auto parts tores that lists one for mine?

The fuel pump on this model is also run through a voltage regulator. If you have a electrical tester, there is a check detailed in the haynes manual for testing the regulator.

Hey can I just splice into the negative wire of the fuel pump and run a ire to the chassis for a ground?