I have a 92 Loyale w/ 120k on it. Just replaced the half shafts and grease seals, but was wondering if anybody has ever tried to repack the front wheel bearings while they were still installed in the knuckle on the car? This sounds like a good plan to me because of them being pressed in. They feel and run fine, but look rather dry.

Now, everybody has seen the bearing packers used to pack regular tapered roller bearings, right? Well, what if I made a set of "plates" that would force new grease thru the old bearings while in the hub. If the hub became filled w/ grease, just wipe it out and it should be about right (1/3 full some people have said). Or maybe make it so it pretty much plugs the ID of the hubs- like a "Dummy "shaft. Do any of you guys think this would work, and be a viable option for repacking the front, or rear for that matter, wheel bearings? Also what type of grease would you guys recommend for these bearings? Regular WB, synthetic WB, ect? Thanks alot for any ideas.

Just replaced the front passenger's side axle and went through this very process.

 

With the bearings still in the hub, I simply took wheel bearing grease and packed/smeared it into the bearings, spun them a few revolutions and worked the grease into them. Repeat three or four times and then give the bearings a final coating before reinstalling the axle. Can't imagine there's any real rocket science behind this.

 

BTW, I used regular old Valvoline standard wheel bearing grease.

Just replaced the front passenger's side axle and went through this very process.

 

With the bearings still in the hub, I simply took wheel bearing grease and packed/smeared it into the bearings, spun them a few revolutions and worked the grease into them. Repeat three or four times and then give the bearings a final coating before reinstalling the axle. Can't imagine there's any real rocket science behind this.

 

BTW, I used regular old Valvoline standard wheel bearing grease.

 

Yes, I did that. Smeared grease and tried to work some into the bearings. But I was looking for a more complete solution for this. I made a part at work today that is basically an aluminim rod, same diameter as the stub shaft, with a grease zerk in the end- that hole extends in the center of this "stub shaft" to the middle, where it is intersected by a couple cross holes. I think this should allow me to force grease from the inside of the hub thru the bearings and out. I figure there will be a little leakage around the shaft (due to an easy fit) but should work real well. Now I just need to find time to pull the axles again and try this grease tool. I wish I knew how to post drawings here.

You do not need to take it all apart. Just cram it in there with castle nut off, work it. If you have ever seen what subaru hardly puts on the oem original for grease even the aforementioned maneuvre is better. I also found , instead of grease getting shewed away from the metals in heat or use, it thiefs the grease towards it. Find away to cram it in there, next go around it will be missing, into the silent bearings

In some cases with Old Bearings, our Local Mechanics use this Procedure:

 

Takin´ Out the Bearing (If it´s Possible) Without Damagin´ it, and then they "Cook" in a Metal Can, an enough amount of Bearings Grease Nº 2 untill it is almost Liquid, and then they put the bearing in the Grease Can, but they do it with a large metallic wire, so they can move the Bearin´ into the Liquid Grease to force it to go inside the Bearin´...

 

Then after few minutes (Around Fifteen) take appart the Can (Carefully, it´s Hot!) and wait untill it cools enought to safely take it and Mount it again...

 

But if it isn´t possible to Take Out the Bearin´ ... I don´t know other way you can do for Proper Greasin´ it; but Maybe using a good Grease (I Suggest the Same Graphitted Grease for Constant Velocity Joints)

 

Good Luck!

The hardest part of getting the bearings out is getting the hub out. I use a mushroom bit (big blunt hammer head) in my air chisel, and gently tap it out with a few raps, generally they come out without damage. Thoroughly clean the old grease out of the bearing with a good solvent, and let it air dry completely. Then, pack with a good high-temp grease, I prefer Moly-Graph from Sta-Lube, it works great and resists the heat produced by the brakes (I used to use it on the booms of excavators used around slash fires, since it doesn't dry out, and even if it did, there's still graphite in it). Make sure to pack the grease fully into the bearing, and put some more in between the bearings, around the spacer. The extra grease flows into the bearings as they warm up, and helps replace what may get past the seals.

If the grease that's in there is old and black, it may be full of dirt and metal dust from the bearings, so I would highly recommend getting it out of there.

Is all this really worth the effort, when the bearings (well, the front ones anyway) dont cost much more than the grease you're using??

 

Personally, I wouldn't go to all the effort of stripping it down and not just replace the bearings.

 

Unless you are using fancy explorer bearings or something.

Is all this really worth the effort, when the bearings (well, the front ones anyway) dont cost much more than the grease you're using??

 

Personally, I wouldn't go to all the effort of stripping it down and not just replace the bearings.

 

Unless you are using fancy explorer bearings or something.

 

I'm about to do both axles ... and I got new bearings for like $13 bucks a piece ... didn't make much sense to me to NOT do them ... but how hard are they to get out or in? Does being pressed-in make an huge difference?

I'm about to do both axles ... and I got new bearings for like $13 bucks a piece ... didn't make much sense to me to NOT do them ... but how hard are they to get out or in? Does being pressed-in make an huge difference?

 

You can drift them out fairly easily, since you dont mind dmaging the old ones...

 

Putting the new ones in, be careful, and only hit the outer race....

 

I fashioned up a drift from a piece of timber that sits against the outer race, with a cut-out in the middle so that it doesn't touch the inner race. Then just tap in lightly with a hammer, making sure that it goes in straight.

 

If you only tap the outer race, and you use a soft drift (or soft hammer), then ,no, it doesn't make any difference. Other way to do it is clean the knuckle and put it in the oven for a while, then the bearing will slide straight in. Haven't tried it, so don't know how hot you'd have to heat it to though. Might cause mrs. probs too!

Other way to do it is clean the knuckle and put it in the oven for a while, then the bearing will slide straight in. Haven't tried it, so don't know how hot you'd have to heat it to though. Might cause mrs. probs too!

 

Thanks for the tips ... and yeah - probbaly a lot of the stuff we do causes Mrs. Problems, hehe.

You can also get the 207S bearings, there sealed, so you never have to worry about it again, well at least a little while longer than the non sealed ones.

Well, everybody seems to like new bearings in there instead of trying to regrease the old ones while still in the hub. So, this means taking the knuckle off the car? Once that is off, would be good idea to get new struts right? I plan on putting new ($17 ea.) rotors on the fronts, just put in new axles (1 new, 1 reman) and seals, and new lower ball joints. Is there anything else to do while I have all of this apart? Thanks guys!

So, this means taking the knuckle off the car? Once that is off, would be good idea to get new struts right? QUOTE]

 

 

It is possible to do them with the knuckle on the car, but certainly much easier with it off.

 

I wouldn't replace the struts unless you know they are stuffed..... they arn't exactly cheap.

How can I tell if the struts are worn? Car handles good- they are probably stock from the factory @ 120,000. What about steering tie rod ends?

How can I tell if the struts are worn? Car handles good- they are probably stock from the factory @ 120,000. What about steering tie rod ends?

 

Lift it up, use a prybar to see if there is any play anywhere.

 

With the tie rod ends, you will be able to feel if they are sloppy once you take them off. Only replace if they have play, since they are easy to get off later.