I was wondering if cheaper shocks make the car more louder when hitting bumps, because its pretty loud inside, like after i have my shocks changed(front ones) i notice a difference, but they were cheap ones, you think the KYRB(can't remember the name) shocks are good, overall like what i mean mostly is noise wise, and OEMness and mileage. And id being doing all the bushings, top hat, what ever around it, but im not sure if i should do the springs as well, and of course ill get alignment done. Thanks guys

I can barely figure out what you're saying. Could you maybe take a few minutes to form a series of coherent sentences?

 

Yes I would expect a bit more noise if you replaced the tops. You took out some of the slop in the suspension, so more noise/vibration/harshness is going to be transmitted to you. I would not think it would be very much though. Struts shouldn't make a huge difference, but now instead of bouncing up and down and doing whatever it feels like, all the unsprung weight is actually being controlled by something directly attached to the body.

 

What struts did you get? And why not the GR2s? They're like the cheapest replacements you can get, and they're decent.

I can barely figure out what you're saying. Could you maybe take a few minutes to form a series of coherent sentences?

 

Yes I would expect a bit more noise if you replaced the tops. You took out some of the slop in the suspension, so more noise/vibration/harshness is going to be transmitted to you. I would not think it would be very much though. Struts shouldn't make a huge difference, but now instead of bouncing up and down and doing whatever it feels like, all the unsprung weight is actually being controlled by something directly attached to the body.

 

What struts did you get? And why not the GR2s? They're like the cheapest replacements you can get, and they're decent.

 

lol, i don't even know what im asking what im asking, is do cheaper struts create more noise, when you hit a bump, compared to OEM struts, and the GR2's. Oh, and i was wondering, should i go back to OEM struts? i can get them, but do the GR2's make the car more controllable and smooth, or are they the exact same, just OEM lasts longer.

 

Why did i get my struts, because off my noobie mechanic, and me not searching up how much GR2's cost.

Generally speaking most aftermarket shocks from poorer quality "white box" to one of the best "bilstein or KYBs" will not give the same ride feel as the OE ones will, also when the weather gets cold, some aftermarket ones will ride stiffer until "warmed up" ... even though KYB is the manufacturer for many OE companies..the OE companies have there own specs ...if buying under the KYB name, although being an excellent and long life shock, they slightly tend to be more generic for mass production reasons, which in most cases again will give you a harder ride feel thus more noise in the cabin...check your tire pressure according the label on the door post..I was surprised to find a huge difference with my outback by decreaseing the air pressure by 3psi (from 32 to 29psi)..

lol, i don't even know what im asking what im asking, is do cheaper struts create more noise, when you hit a bump, compared to OEM struts, and the GR2's. Oh, and i was wondering, should i go back to OEM struts? i can get them, but do the GR2's make the car more controllable and smooth, or are they the exact same, just OEM lasts longer.

 

Why did i get my struts, because off my noobie mechanic, and me not searching up how much GR2's cost.

Generally speaking most aftermarket shocks from poorer quality "white box" to one of the best "bilstein or KYBs" will not give the same ride feel as the OE ones will, also when the weather gets cold, some aftermarket ones will ride stiffer until "warmed up" ... even though KYB is the manufacturer for many OE companies..the OE companies have there own specs ...if buying under the KYB name, although being an excellent and long life shock, they slightly tend to be more generic for mass production reasons, which in most cases again will give you a harder ride feel thus more noise in the cabin...check your tire pressure according the label on the door post..I was surprised to find a huge difference with my outback by decreaseing the air pressure by 3psi (from 32 to 29psi)..

 

oh, because i went 4psi over the recommended, so ill try that out, thanks, i think ill go for OE struts, just because mine lasted SO long.

oh, because i went 4psi over the recommended, so ill try that out, thanks, i think ill go for OE struts, just because mine lasted SO long.

Too bad lower PSI = worse mpg and worse tire wear. I'll take some "noise" or whatever you think you hear over getting worse mpg and bad tire wear.

I wish I also could go 4psi over , but with the lower profile tires (60 series) that come with the newer subarus make for a rough ride, certainly not like having the 70 series of yester year

Too bad lower PSI = worse mpg and worse tire wear. I'll take some "noise" or whatever you think you hear over getting worse mpg and bad tire wear.

I wish I also could go 4psi over , but with the lower profile tires (60 series) that come with the newer subarus make for a rough ride, certainly not like having the 70 series of yester year

Eh, I vote for rough ride to get good tire wear and better mpg. I always run my tires at max psi on the tire. It makes them wear better. Granted, they are 70 series and I do have 153k struts/springs.

If you run your tires at 40psi, which is what i'm assuming is the max psi for the tire, you are going to have increased wear on the middle of the tread pattern, which will wear out the tires just as fast, if not faster than having them at a few pounds less than the manufacturers reccomendation.

uhhhh that sounds like a very bad idea, (Running at max inflation) Wouldnt the psi get higher as the tire starts rolling?

I run mine about 3 or 4 above recommended, simply because of all the highway driving, I could use a little mpg boost.

 

My question is, I thought KYB were OEM struts? Where would I get OEM struts if not, other than my local stealership. I checked a few online subaru parts places but they only sell KYB.

If you run your tires at 40psi, which is what i'm assuming is the max psi for the tire, you are going to have increased wear on the middle of the tread pattern, which will wear out the tires just as fast, if not faster than having them at a few pounds less than the manufacturers reccomendation.

The Max PSI on these is 35 psi and it seems that running max psi works just fine- I notice no increase in the middle of the tread pattern. I certainly don't use what it says on the door because that's far too low.

 

From what I've understood, it's best to run the tires at or near the max on the tire for best fuel economy and tire wear. It makes sense to me that a harder tire would roll easier for better mileage.

I tend to agree with you, maybe I need to adjust to the slightly harder ride (35psi) and measure/monitor the thread depth...I am running on the michelin hydroedge tires, 44psi is max for them..

The Max PSI on these is 35 psi and it seems that running max psi works just fine- I notice no increase in the middle of the tread pattern. I certainly don't use what it says on the door because that's far too low.

 

From what I've understood, it's best to run the tires at or near the max on the tire for best fuel economy and tire wear. It makes sense to me that a harder tire would roll easier for better mileage.

I have never looked at the door for psi, on any car. I always go by the tire itself

I guess on different tires the inflation max is different, mine are about 44, I run them about 33~35 Definately stiffens up the ride.

Ill run by what subaru recommends and that all, i think its 29 rear normal pulling, and 31-32 front? ill check it later.

Ill run by what subaru recommends and that all, i think its 29 rear normal pulling, and 31-32 front? ill check it later.

If you want a cushy ride, have at what it says on the door. The tire manufacturer though is the true teller of where to run the tire at.

If you want a cushy ride, have at what it says on the door. The tire manufacturer though is the true teller of where to run the tire at.

 

agreed, but i dont see tire manu/ recommended is.

Run by the door inflation. The marking on the tire is only max as required by law.

The door inflation has been adjusted for car weight and characteristics during a controlled test period and odds are its a lot closer than you will work out yourself.

The struts that came off my Forester from the factory said KYB on them and the GR2s are just a bit stiffer, I've heard 15% and can beleive it.

Run by the door inflation. The marking on the tire is only max as required by law.

The door inflation has been adjusted for car weight and characteristics during a controlled test period and odds are its a lot closer than you will work out yourself.

The struts that came off my Forester from the factory said KYB on them and the GR2s are just a bit stiffer, I've heard 15% and can beleive it.

 

Ditto

 

 

The inflation pressure on the tire is the max, not the reccomended pressure.

 

I'm thinking that the subie engineers know more about what their car requires than an aftermarket tire manufacturer.

KYB is the manufactureing company who makes struts/shocks for various OE companies according to,.. for example: subarus engineering specs....KYB's own line of strut/shocks have slightly different specs, and as I said earlier, usually will have a stiffer ride...

uhhhh that sounds like a very bad idea, (Running at max inflation) Wouldnt the psi get higher as the tire starts rolling?

I run mine about 3 or 4 above recommended, simply because of all the highway driving, I could use a little mpg boost.

 

My question is, I thought KYB were OEM struts? Where would I get OEM struts if not, other than my local stealership. I checked a few online subaru parts places but they only sell KYB.

My door post says 30 front and 29 rear

Ill run by what subaru recommends and that all, i think its 29 rear normal pulling, and 31-32 front? ill check it later.

My door post says 30 front and 29 rear

 

Its getting harder and harder to see the tire infaltion specs. uYou have to look really hard.

 

Some tires run at the mfg spec look almost flat. The mfg spec should be the minimum, and the tire mfg the max. Happyness is in the middle.

 

 

nipper

If anyone is really that concerned about a few psi difference, drive for a few miles and measure the inside, center, and outside tread temperatures with an infrared pyrometer. If the center is cooler than the edges, you need more pressure, if it's hotter you have too much. Anything between 29 and 40 is going to be fine in most cases. I run 36f/34r on 16" Potenzas. Also on a sedan it's best to have a psi or two more up front because of the weight distribution.

 

Lets also not forget how Ford put dangerously low pressures on Explorer door plaques for comfort.

I was wondering if cheaper shocks make the car more louder when hitting bumps, because its pretty loud inside, like after i have my shocks changed(front ones) i notice a difference, but they were cheap ones, you think the KYRB(can't remember the name) shocks are good, overall like what i mean mostly is noise wise, and OEMness and mileage. And id being doing all the bushings, top hat, what ever around it, but im not sure if i should do the springs as well, and of course ill get alignment done. Thanks guys

 

Actually they are struts, not shocls in the front (huge difference). Yes cheap strauts can transmit more noise. In reality new struts will transmit more noise then tired ones anyway, so its just symantics.

 

If you replace all the bushings and top hat that will help.

 

nipper

Actually they are struts, not shocls in the front (huge difference). Yes cheap strauts can transmit more noise. In reality new struts will transmit more noise then tired ones anyway, so its just symantics.

 

If you replace all the bushings and top hat that will help.

 

nipper

 

everything is original except the strut(lol, ya didnt think, thinking about my rc car) Next time im ready to work on the car, new struts with bushings and new top hat, total rebuild will be done from and rear. Should i replace the springs as well? There is maybe a dot of rust on them.