KMR Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Hello all, Working on replacing the clutch on our 93 Impreza. So far it has been going great, Subaru definitely made these cars to be worked on. I would really appreciate if you guys could answer a few simple newbie questions for me. 1st. Is this the hill stop thingy? Can I just leave it disconnected? I do not like it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4492&stc=1&d=1166308178 2nd If I disconnect this barbell thing can I use that bracket as a lift point to lower the transmission out of the car? (I have a lift and a hoist) Or is that silly? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4493&stc=1&d=1166308283 3rd Is this the speedo cable? If I unscrew the plastic nut/plug that is under the rubber boot can I just pull it out? I tried and It did not seem to want to move. Thanks! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4494&stc=1&d=1166308371 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Yes, you could leave the hillholder off/disconnected Yes, you need to remove the support. It could be used to lower the trans, but they are very light and you can do it with a floor jack There is a spring clip under the upper rubber boot. Pull it off and the cable will pull out leaving the adapter in the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 The hill holder is wonderful I bet its out of adjustment. Thats the #1 reason people dont like it. You can diconnect it, but it really does make your clutch live longer, unless you live someplace dead flat and never leave there. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Thanks for taking the time to help out! Nipper, you really think it makes the clutch last longer? I am sure it is out of adjustment but it seems that no matter what, when you first start, you would be dragging on the brakes. Just doesn't feel right. But I obviously have no idea what I am talking about, and the unavailability of a service manual for this car makes it had to edumacate myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Ok, I went back out and pulled the speedo cable, there was no spring clip, I think it may be an aftermarket one. Disconnected that barbell thingy, the rear trany support and everything else I could find. My question now is: are the two long bolts at the top of the bell housing (one of which is the starter bolt) and the two nuts on the bottom the only thing that holds the trany on? I pulled all that stuff and wanted to make sure I was not missing anything before I started prying on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 Well, I pulled everything I can find and the trany will not budge from the engine. Am I missing something? Or has the corrosion glued everything together, those two steel pins are not looking very friendly right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 There are 4 bolts holding the engine to the tranny, make sure you have all of them. The hill holder acts as a return spring for the clutch fork, and its rather important in the longevity of the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Pent. oil on the alignment pins. You can drive the passenger side one FWD and out completely. The drivers side can be driven part way. It usually takes a couple of screwdrivers driven in at the split line to get it apart. Just take it easy an remove any burs before you put it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 It was just really corroded, with a combination of the suggestions here and from searching other threads I was able to get them apart. I took some screw drivers, pen-oil and kind of levering the two halfs at the split to get them apart, thanks! Now the next question, What is leaking here and how do I fix it? I bought a rear main seal beforehand but it does not look like that is what was leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 Oh, and does anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 What's leaking is your wristpin removal cover plate. Unscrew the two screws, there's either an O-ring under there, or you just RTV it, I can't remember. That plastic cover plate is also a problem leaker. The cast aluminum plate seems to hold a seal much better than the plastic one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 I hope it is RTVable, the dealer is an hour away, hate to have to run there for an O-ring. Since the rear main does not apear to be leaking, should I replace it anyway? I am inclined to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I hope it is RTVable, the dealer is an hour away, hate to have to run there for an O-ring. Since the rear main does not apear to be leaking, should I replace it anyway? I am inclined to do so. You shold replace the plastic cover while your there also, since that will leak in the future. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 I read some threads on here about that, but I could not figure out what part it was. I went ahead and pulled the plastic cover off and re-RTVed it. Since I did not want to make another trip to the dealer. After I did that, I discovered that exedy sent me the wrong throughout bearing, dealer is closed today, no auto parts store around here has one, I hope the dealer has the right one in stock or else I am screwed, and I will check to see if they have an aluminum cover at the same time. One part that would be a good idea to have on hand for a clutch job is the exhaust gaskets where the flange meets the manifold. I did not see that mentioned in other threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I read some threads on here about that, but I could not figure out what part it was. I went ahead and pulled the plastic cover off and re-RTVed it. Since I did not want to make another trip to the dealer. After I did that, I discovered that exedy sent me the wrong throughout bearing, dealer is closed today, no auto parts store around here has one, I hope the dealer has the right one in stock or else I am screwed, and I will check to see if they have an aluminum cover at the same time. One part that would be a good idea to have on hand for a clutch job is the exhaust gaskets where the flange meets the manifold. I did not see that mentioned in other threads. The problem is the fact that that plastic peice is plastic and not metal. Thats why it leaks with time. i think this is one of the very rare everyone-will-get-this-eventually things. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMR Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 Well, I was able to get the right throwout bearing from the dealer today, and the replacement metal plate, put things together tonight and it went very well. For the most part every thing was remarkably easy, it was evident that Subaru had thought through all the steps before I did. Getting the trany fit back on the bellhousing was a bit finicky. I found that a small ratchet strap from the top trany hanger to the front engine hook really helped to keep the top and bottom advancing at the same pace. That and I finally remembered that I needed to rotate the trany a bit to get the splines to line up, it just wouldn't slide in that last bit.............hummmm. So far I like the hill stop disconnected, I like the feel of free rolling. I think I will put a spring on the mount so the clutch fork has a return spring again, as it sits now the clutch engagement is a bit far up on the pedal. Thanks for all the help and info, here and in other threads. Hopefully some other newbie will find this information useful as well. Kevin R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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