i'm putting in a different 2.5 into a 97 legacy outback limited that the engine was removed when i bought it. i'm getting ready to put in the new engine and it looks to be alot easier to install the engine with the torque converter on the transmission, but i can't get the converter off the engine. some help would be greatly appeciated.

 

thanks steve

I've never done this job, but one thing I've seen repeatedly is to make sure that the shaft seats fully upon attachment of engine to AT (based on measurement); otherwise a pump in the AT may fracture shortly thereafter.

On the back passenger side of the engine, there is a black plastic cover. You access the 4 flex plate to TC bolts through that access hole.

 

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE TC SEATED ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANS. IF NOT, THE TRANS WILL LAST ABOUT 30 MILES AND THEN ITS TRASH!

i don't see any access panel and no plastic, only 2 bolts. this is a 2.5 don't know if you were thinking of another engine.

 

On the back passenger side of the engine, there is a black plastic cover. You access the 4 flex plate to TC bolts through that access hole.

 

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE TC SEATED ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANS. IF NOT, THE TRANS WILL LAST ABOUT 30 MILES AND THEN ITS TRASH!

The acess hole is just to the left of the intake manifold on the top of the Bell Housing. It there, just hard to see if you have all the intake tubing still on the car.

 

Keith

i don't see any access panel and no plastic, only 2 bolts. this is a 2.5 don't know if you were thinking of another engine.

 

I'm not sure if you are looking in the right place...are you looking at the back side of the engine? If so, that would be incorrect. Standing at the front of the engine, there should be an access port/hole covered by a plastic/rubber plate/plug. It will be on the passenger side (I believe) near the top of the engine close to where it mates with transmission. It is thru this hole that you will have to attach the drive plate to the torque converter. You rotate the engine by hand to line it up

I liked the loyale rubber plug better...it was plain rubber and came out easier...those engines were sooo much easier to work on

bell housing access hole under intake on top, passengers side.

like they said, you want to make sure the torque converter is fully seated before bolting the engine in place. it's very tricky because the last 1/4 - 1/8" are where it hangs up, so visually it looks like it's in...but it's still got a tad to go. lots of posts on this, but gradually pull out and push in with very tiny movements until you feel/hear it click into place. the FSM is nice here, it shows a diagram with measurements. if the bellhousing/torque converter bolt holes aren't all coming together...do not use the engine to trans bolts to pull it in the rest of the way, you'll trash the transmission. i disagree that you'll get 30 miles like the other poster mentioned, you'd be very lucky to get the car moving once the oil pump is damaged.

thank you all for your help, i should be able to get it with all your help.

 

thanks steve

 

bell housing access hole under intake on top, passengers side.

like they said, you want to make sure the torque converter is fully seated before bolting the engine in place. it's very tricky because the last 1/4 - 1/8" are where it hangs up, so visually it looks like it's in...but it's still got a tad to go. lots of posts on this, but gradually pull out and push in with very tiny movements until you feel/hear it click into place. the FSM is nice here, it shows a diagram with measurements. if the bellhousing/torque converter bolt holes aren't all coming together...do not use the engine to trans bolts to pull it in the rest of the way, you'll trash the transmission. i disagree that you'll get 30 miles like the other poster mentioned, you'd be very lucky to get the car moving once the oil pump is damaged.