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removing stuck rear cv shaft

Featured Replies

Hi,

I have a 92 loyale and I can not get the axle to come off the shaft. The bearings are bad on the rear passenger side and I need to change them. I have read some posts referring to a tool made to remove the shaft, does any one have a picture of it or a subaru part number? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dennis

no tool needed other than the 3/16 inch punch to get the springpin out.

 

once you've got that out, it should come off. but you might need to beat on the CV cup with a hammer. if that isn't enough. heat is your friend. Get yourself a MAPP torch and heat up the end of the cup. this should get the axle to expand and make it easier to slip off the stub.

 

hope this helps!

  • Author

I punched the pin out and tried a mapp gas torch, but it still will not budge.

Dennis

yea, I've had a couple that were really tough. one required some serious pounding/heating. and another one that I ended up using an acetylene torch and an air chisel. they can be extremely tough. unfortunately,

I had to pull the stub, clamp the cup (minus joint and shaft) in a bench vise, and beat the stub out with a 5lb sledge and large drift.

If you're changing the bearings, this is probably a good option to go with.

  • Author

Well I tried a 3lb hammer and a mapp torch, no luck.I put an air chiesel to it, no luck. are there any tools that can do this?

dennis

i too have been in the same spot.i ended up driving around with the pin out and if fiannly broke loose.what a affair though. drive for a block or so and check it out.good luck.they can be a bugger! todd

I usually use LOTS of PB Blaster and time.... Soak it a few times a day and just let it sit... other then that there is a slide hammer that they make to pull axles out.

four words: sea foam deep creep.

 

It is as much beyond PB B'laster as PB B'laster is beyond WD 40.

 

I have taken pliers that were frozen, and frozen pliers I had "freed up" with PB, and used deep creep on them..

 

put them down for six months, one of them was even left outside again for like three weeks. Pick them up, they feel good as new (the rust tightens loose boxes) and after a few times opening and closing them, even after all that, a little deep creep shows up at the edges of the joint on one side. The PB never even REALLY worked on freeing up frozen pliers.

I had to pull the stub, clamp the cup (minus joint and shaft) in a bench vise, and beat the stub out with a 5lb sledge and large drift.

If you're changing the bearings, this is probably a good option to go with.

 

I've had to do this method twice now. However, it only works if the axle comes off the differential side. Since you say you're doing the bearings, you'll have to get the axle stub out anyways. It'll also be easier to get the big ring nut unscrewed without the stub there.

 

-Dave

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