Running out of time. HELP !!!

[OB99W]

relubed the sliding parts, i consider that significant part of doing the job right. they are typically very dry when i pull them. [...]

Thanks!

[OB99W]

[...]I got codes

 

31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit - Seems to be wrong according to book

See Cougar's and my posts.

 

 

21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit - just replaced it WTF

[...]

As Cougar said, just replacing a sensor doesn't mean the entire circuit is working. Assuming that you reset the ECU and this isn't an "old" code, I would concentrate on this problem; it certainly could be at the root of the gas mileage and emissions troubles.

 

 

Also I retarded the TPS to 4.18 volts and I'm not sure if it was like this b4 but I'm idling at 1100 RPM. Again I don't remember if that's where it was b4. I might have to advande the TPS again and see if the idle goes down.

For the TPS you apparently have, it should be closer to 5 volts at idle. Idling at 1100 rpm will waste a lot of gas, among other problems; with a fully warmed engine, it should be several hundred rpm lower -- more like 600-700.

[OB99W]

Ok I just checked the engine witha vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold. I get a steady 17-18 when cold and when engine on warmer side I get a 21.

Good start, probably healthy rings and valves, timing likely okay.

 

 

When open and close throttle real quick engine jumps up to 25. All seem normal.

[...]

Also a good sign. However, what was the vacuum reading when you held at 2000-2500 rpm for several seconds?

 

 

They if nothing found I will replace the cat on monday or something.

[...]

I wouldn't jump there quite yet. Please answer the question above, and see Cougar and my posts about sensors.

[idosubaru]

attack one code at a time. start with the most likely and move on, often others are incidental and won't come back. i would also concentrate on the CTS issue first. you replaced the CTS, when? have the codes reset now and see which ones come back.

[gyuunuuya]

Try cleaning the wiper of the sensor if you can to see if you can salvage it.

 

Salvage it? It's working fine then I will just advande it back to 4.8 volts or whatever will make the idle speed around 700-800 RPM.

 

 

The sensor circuits need to be checked with a meter while they are working to see if things are working as they should be. Just replacing a sensor doesn't mean it has to work. The whole circuit needs to be checked.

 

Definetly since the TPS seems to be functioning correctly testing the circuit will be the next step.

 

As for the CAS sensor itself, I don't think you can check it out just using a ohmmeter, but you can make sure that the circuit is making connection to it.

 

Yes you can. I forgot the exact procedure but basically u hook up a volt meter to it and measure the ohms rise and dropping if it does that within specs it's functioning correctly.

 

Thanks again I will have to check the circuit this week sometime.

[gyuunuuya]

As it says on page 5 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf (which I previously provided a link to):

 

-------------------------------------

Some Legacy models were equipped with a TPS with an inverted voltage signal. Voltage was approximately 5 volts at idle and decreased as the throttle was depressed.

--------------------------------------

 

You might want to reread that information, including the part about the idle switch.

 

K thanks sorry I guess I missed that part about inverted TPS's. Great information if only I was smart enough to read through the whole thing and comprehend it eh LOL

[gyuunuuya]

 

As Cougar said, just replacing a sensor doesn't mean the entire circuit is working. Assuming that you reset the ECU and this isn't an "old" code, I would concentrate on this problem; it certainly could be at the root of the gas mileage and emissions troubles.

 

 

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I didn't know there was a way to reset the ECU on this car.

 

Maybe the coolant sensor did the trick but the car still thinks it's bad. Anyone got a link on reseting the ECU on a 92 legacy sub?

[gyuunuuya]

Also a good sign. However, what was the vacuum reading when you held at 2000-2500 rpm for several seconds?

 

I wouldn't jump there quite yet. Please answer the question above, and see Cougar and my posts about sensors.

 

I held steady at 18 at 2000-2500 RPM. Great testing procedure though if I ever need to diagnose a car again and am stumped I will bust out the vaccum gauge

[gyuunuuya]

attack one code at a time. start with the most likely and move on, often others are incidental and won't come back. i would also concentrate on the CTS issue first. you replaced the CTS, when? have the codes reset now and see which ones come back.

 

I replaced the CTS about 3-4 weeks ago. And before I replced it I tested it with an ohm meter and it was malfuctioning.

 

I apparently need to reset the ECU but am not certain how to do it. I will look around this forum for the answer hopefully I will find it.

[OB99W]

[...]I apparently need to reset the ECU but am not certain how to do it. I will look around this forum for the answer hopefully I will find it.

Hint: page 12 of the previously linked article.

[gyuunuuya]

Hint: page 12 of the previously linked article.

 

Fine fine that fuel.PDF contains everything I need apparently. I will consult my Hanes manual to see if it goes into further depth on resetting it. I will post tonight of tommorrow with any improvment.

[Cougar]

You shouldn't need to reset the ECU to eliminate the CTS code. If the unit is working as it should the code will go away. To reset the ECU you can just disconnect power to it for about 20 to 30 minutes. I don't recommend it though.

[OB99W]

Both of these links have info on using the black and green connectors to clear codes without doing a full reset of the ECU:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUReset

http://www.cycoactive.com/Urabus/urabus_seldom.html

 

Be sure to start with the black and green plugs disconnected, warmed engine, not running. Follow the rest of the procedure as in the links, and when completed, disconnect both sets of plugs.

[gyuunuuya]

Sorry by reset I mean't clearing the codes.

 

Now Cougar says that the code should go away by itself so should I try to clear the codes or not?

 

Thanks for the info again OB99W. Your like a link guru LOL.

[gyuunuuya]

Also if I'm not supposed to clear the codes when am I supposed to clear them?

[nipper]

I hate long threads hard to follow (espeically when they are technical).

 

Re reading this for the most part, have you replaced the ignition wires? I dont see that listed anywhere. Also it may be time for a compression test. Lets make sure the compression is good in all the cylinders.

 

 

nipper

[gyuunuuya]

I hate long threads hard to follow (espeically when they are technical).

 

Re reading this for the most part, have you replaced the ignition wires? I dont see that listed anywhere. Also it may be time for a compression test. Lets make sure the compression is good in all the cylinders.

 

 

nipper

 

I did test the wires and they ohm out just fine however the coils they hook up to r about 600 ohms over spec but I'm guessing that's not to huge of a difference. So I haven't replaced them yet because I don't think 600 ohms is much of a concern

[nipper]

I did test the wires and they ohm out just fine however the coils they hook up to r about 600 ohms over spec but I'm guessing that's not to huge of a difference. So I haven't replaced them yet because I don't think 600 ohms is much of a concern

 

replace the wires if they are over 10 years old. An ohm meter only tells you part of the story, and no one really has the equipment to test wires properly.

 

You have either a dead cylinder, poor compression, or a misfire. We can rule out a misfire easily. Also what plugs did you put in the car.

 

Lets attack the CO first, performance second.

[gyuunuuya]

replace the wires if they are over 10 years old. An ohm meter only tells you part of the story, and no one really has the equipment to test wires properly.

 

You have either a dead cylinder, poor compression, or a misfire. We can rule out a misfire easily. Also what plugs did you put in the car.

 

Lets attack the CO first, performance second.

yeah but what do you think about the coils?

[nipper]

Gas mileage has always been horrable on the car not bad, I mean horrable like 12 MPG, with a light foot

92 Subaru legacy AWD non turbo wagon Automatic.

 

I've done many things to try to fix this problem.

 

1) Replace air filter

 

2) Mass air flow sensor

 

3) O2 Sensor (the one by the exhaust manifold)

 

4) Spark plugs

 

5) Seafoam straight through the injection with a tube and the can.

 

6) tire pressure and new tires

 

7) Oil changes

 

8) Replaced coolant temp sensor and sending unit

 

 

9) Replaced PCV

 

10) My wife has to smog the car since regestration is due, but of course if failed. :dead::dead:

 

HC (PPM)

 

Idle

Max = 120

Measured = 230

2500 RPM

max = 140

Measured = 15

______________________________

 

CO

Idle

Max = 1.00

Measured = 1.65

2500 RPM

Max = 1.00

Measured = 0.05

 

 

If your have any other suggestions as to what I can do plz let me know.

 

This is from a previous posting that never got replied to.

 

Ok I changed out the PCV and the coolant temp sensor as well as the coolest temp sending unit underneath the temp sensor.

 

I plugged in the black connectors and got 2 error code readings

 

1 ) Bad coolant temp sensor

 

2) Bad cam angle sensor

 

anyways after I changed the coolant sensor 2 things happened.

 

1) check engine light is solid on now with no codes.

 

2) even in the cold morning if u turn the car on and drive 1 block maybe about 1/4 mile or less the car is already fully heated up. like within 1 min of starting the car.

 

Also tonight I took apart the IAC unit and noticed when I disconnected the PCV valve all the tubed are gunked up with gunk. Not like where air can't get through but nice cake build up on sides of tubing.

 

I also looked at the injector rings to see if they were leaking but I didn't see anything wrong with them.

 

Gas mileage is still crap any clues???

 

PLEASE DEAR GOD PLEASE!!!!!!!!! :banghead::banghead:

 

I bought this here as i got tired of going upfront.

 

When was the last time this thing had a timing belt done.

 

Coil test is spray the engine with water while its running and see if you have any voltage leakage (sparks).

 

I am not sure how you are reading coil resistance Primary should be 0.63- 0.77 ohms. Secondary can be 10.4 to 24.5 K ohm depending upon who made them.

 

Get new wires. Bad wires even with a brand new coil still makes the coil useless.

 

nipper

[OB99W]

Sorry by reset I mean't clearing the codes.

 

Now Cougar says that the code should go away by itself so should I try to clear the codes or not?

 

Thanks for the info again OB99W. Your like a link guru LOL.

Most codes will clear by themselves, but some take several completed drive cycles for that to happen. I like to clear codes and see which come back, but it's your choice.

 

The reason I provide links is that it's easier and shorter (often, much so) than typing out the procedures.

 

The vacuum readings you got would seem to indicate that the basic engine health is at least adequate. (The 18 inch reading at 2000-2500 rpm could have been a bit closer to the 21 inch reading at idle, so there might be a bit of exhaust restriction.) To the point...

 

...If the ECU thinks the engine is always cold, it will always call for too rich a mixture. Until you get the coolant temperature sensor code to not return, I'd suggest skipping other work. Once you get past that, if there are other issues/CEL/codes, you can attack them.

[nipper]

Most codes will clear by themselves, but some take several completed drive cycles for that to happen. I like to clear codes and see which come back, but it's your choice.

 

The reason I provide links is that it's easier and shorter (often, much so) than typing out the procedures.

 

The vacuum readings you got would seem to indicate that the basic engine health is at least adequate. (The 18 inch reading at 2000-2500 rpm could have been a bit closer to the 21 inch reading at idle, so there might be a bit of exhaust restriction.) To the point...

 

...If the ECU thinks the engine is always cold, it will always call for too rich a mixture. Until you get the coolant temperature sensor code to not return, I'd suggest skipping other work. Once you get past that, if there are other issues/CEL/codes, you can attack them.

 

SO the coolant temp sensor hasnt been replaced yet?

 

nipper

[gyuunuuya]

Yes Nipper I replaced the CTS as well as the sending unit underneath it.

 

I cleared the codes yesterday after I got home from work, as well as retarding the TPS back to 4.8volts. I will check the car when I get home to se what codes it's throwing out now.

 

Thanks again guys I will definetly keep you posted.

[Cougar]

A note about clearing the codes.

 

A short time ago I needed to renew my IM certificate and due to my battery being discharged the ECU cleared the memory. This included the memory for the monitiors. Since they were not ready for checking I had to perform a number of things with the engine and driving to make enough of the monitiors to set so I could pass the IM test. It took me three attemps of driving to get enough of them to set so I could get the testing done.

 

While I was at the test station the IM tech was kind enough to get the info I needed to do in order to make the ECU run the self tests. It was while doing this that I learned from him that when the using a reader or scanner to clear the codes it also clears the monitors. I didn't know this before. So just beware of clearing codes, especially if you have a IM test coming up shortly.

 

Edit:

This info really applies to OBD-2 systems and isn't really a concern for type 1 systems.

[OB99W]

SO the coolant temp sensor hasnt been replaced yet?

It's apparently been replaced, but code for it is reportedly still there (see post #48 of this thread). Obviously, there could be circuit problems beyond the sensor itself, which we've already mentioned. I suggested clearing codes and seeing if it returns, to verify whether the problem is current.