Alright.. So now I have the Brumby going again after the suspension mods (with it's EJ22 from 89 Liberty, same as Legacy) I'm having some trouble.

 

First the idle is sitting on 1600rpm, I haven't tried adjusting the idle screw as it sometimes idles at 1000rpm, so adjusting it might make it sometimes stool. My major question here is do I need to adjust the idle on the IAC and TB idle screw specially? Or do I just set the IAC anywhere and then set the TB idle screw till the car idles at 900?

 

Second. The other day I went for a long drive, lots of stops as well. But when I was following a mate through traffic it developed a random fuel cut. Basically it would just stall (only all the electrics would stay working like the tacho) and then start again. This was happening under acceleration and deceleration along with just cruzing. So it was happening all the time. For periods between a millisecond and about a second every so often. Maybe 20 seconds apart, maybe 5 minutes apart. So, what could this be? After stopping the car and checking the codes which happen to be only code 33 (speed sensor, not wired in) and then starting it again I didn't get the problem after that.

 

Also with this "new" ECU I get the speed sensor code, is this going to cause a problem? Or is it fine to have the error? I don't know how to fix it as I can't wire it into my speedo.

 

Oh, and another problem I've been getting. After test driving the car a little (testing the new suspension) I noticed the park brake light and the clock were flashing (not going completely out, just getting dimmer) at a constant rate of about 2 times a second. This stopped when I unplugged the power to my ECU. I haven't noticed this before. Then when I replugged in the ECU it wasn't happening, but after some driving it was back.

 

Hope this isn't to confusing...

Got your o2 sensor in?

 

Mine kinda was doing the cutting out thing without it... Also check fuel filters, and fuel pump wiring.

Howdy Phiz, nice work you've done on your Brumby

 

As for the idle problem, it is no doubt being caused by

the missing VSS signal.

The "brain" needs to see this

signal so it will know to engage

the "idle map" under a certain speed.

There is a "limp home mode" that it may default to

after a time, it doesn't see this signal.

 

There is a guy that built a sand rail without the speedometer head (where the VSS signal is generated).

He used magnets mounted on a DOJ and a reed switch to simulate this signal.

I'll see if I can find the link.

 

The periodic clock dimming edt.

EA82's will pulse the fuel pump and some other

relays at this frequency when the diagnostic connectors are plugged together.

 

(Unplugged while driving, these must be plugged together

to set the timing at idle).

Maybe your ECU does this also and these plugs are connected.

The relay or?? is dragging the voltage down to these units.

 

Might want to put a analog voltmeter on the fuel pump

to see if it to is "dimming" -- ie. loosing voltage.

As for the idle problem, it is no doubt being caused by the missing VSS signal.

 

 

sorry skip....can't be. as far as I can tell, only OBD II cars have problems without a VSS. I've been running mine without since last August, easily put 10k miles on it now.

 

 

that's about all I can offer....

 

maybe something's funny with the alt (whether the unit itself, or the wiring). how's your voltage while this is all happening?

thanks for the correction numb,

 

dam OBD II 97 OB I just got, has me old school cranial cavity corn-fused more than normal.

 

Although... how about the TPS not being adjusted properly?

That might mess with the ECU output to the IAC??

 

The EJ22 TPS does still have an idle switch -doesn't it??

sorry skip....can't be. as far as I can tell, only OBD II cars have problems without a VSS. I've been running mine without since last August, easily put 10k miles on it now.

 

 

that's about all I can offer....

 

maybe something's funny with the alt (whether the unit itself, or the wiring). how's your voltage while this is all happening?

 

Incorrect....OBD1 Legacies will give you nothing but problems if you don't have the VSS hooked up. I can't say why yours isn't giving you problems, but I have experienced it first hand as well as helped diagnose others with similar weird problems.

 

Phizinza, you really need to find a way to get a VSS to the ECU.

I forgot to mention a few things. When I took the car for it's first test drive after the new suspension it didn't have the o2 sensor plugged in (ran really good concidering) but I cleared the ECU and plugged it in, no change and no o2 code so I asume it is working.

 

The car was running quite alright before I re setup the suspension and that was with the "new" ECU and nothing else changed.

 

All test plugs are unplugged, I only use the black ones to check the codes every so often.

 

Also the volt meter drops and gains about half a volt with the dimming of the clock and park light.

Volts sit on 13 to 14 on the gauge which I have adjusted to be correct when I had the dash apart. But I'll check it with a multimeter.

 

I wonder if I can hook up the speed sensor wire into my speedo..? hmm. I'll look into that. But I haven't heard of any EJ swappers having problems or having to hook this wire up so I assume I didn't have to..

Oh, I alos now have a complete set of second hand sensors so I can test things now..

I'll re check voltages on the main relay again as well.

Just to add..

I've also been experiencing bad vibrations when using the clutch from a stop. But after adjusting the IAC and throttle screw (trying to set to what it should be from a service manual I have) it has pretty much gone away. Although I can't get the engine to idle smooth below 1100rpm..

 

If I had the money, I think I'd go out and get megasquirt for this heap of ____...

 

The idle switch is working fine. But the TPS measures 10.6Kohms fully closed and 2.4Kohms fully open. The service manual I have says it should be 1Kohm closed and 4.8Kohm open..? Both my TPS's I have measure the same. I think I need to go buy a manual for this thing.

I'm not sure about the AUDM models in particluar.

 

But if yours is the same as USDM, the speedo should have a plug like this coming out of the back of it. The one you need to be concerned with is the one with the black connector, the other is the egr reminder light switch. You'll need to wire the black to ground, and the yellow/red to the ecu pin for the vss.

Another couple of things to add. I'm running a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank at the moment (in a recommended dose.)

 

I also have found out that if I floor it at anything under 1700rpm it just splutters and won't accelerate, or decelerate.

Still haven't looked into the VSS yet. My other ECU (which was the cause of other idle problems) never had code 33 and never had this hesitation at under 1700.. So it sounds like the code 33 is my problem...

Would be sweet if I could get the computer to ignore it.

The idle switch is working fine. But the TPS measures 10.6Kohms fully closed and 2.4Kohms fully open. The service manual I have says it should be 1Kohm closed and 4.8Kohm open..? Both my TPS's I have measure the same. I think I need to go buy a manual for this thing.

 

The info I have confirms those service manual resistance values are what they should be. Here's the scan from the US subaru factory manual

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg

 

Are you sure you're measuring the correct terminals?

.....__....

..../...\...

...|.1..|..

..-|.|..|..

...|.2..|..

..=..|..|..

...|.3..|..

..-|.|..|..

...|.4..|..

....\__/...

 

Measureing between pin 2 and 4 gets those kilohm's I said before. Maybe theres some weird AUS spec thing going on. :-\ Can't see how two would be broken like that exactly the same

Yup....those are the correct pins.....The TPS resistance will be off a little bit....but those are pretty subtantial differences.....so i'm not sure.

I'm gonna have to get a manual for the australian model and see. I must be doing something wrong... But first, I'll have to work on that VSS

Sorry to bring this up to the top but I just wanted to add the final solution to the problem, read the posts in this link:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71100&page=17